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dreadlock


Mar 5, 2008, 3:00 PM
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Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack
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La Sportiva News
Beth Rodden Redpoints Meltdown- 5.14c
After 5 months of working it out, Beth Rodden has redpointed the first ascent of Meltdown (5.14c). Meltdown is the world's hardest traditional rock climb done by a woman. Yosemite National Park, California. This news is so new check back to see the write up!


minexploration


Mar 5, 2008, 3:06 PM
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Re: [dreadlock] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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Where is this climb in the park? and does anyone have pictures of the line?

Sounds sweet.


(This post was edited by minexploration on Mar 5, 2008, 3:07 PM)


veganclimber


Mar 5, 2008, 3:16 PM
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Re: [dreadlock] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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dreadlock wrote:
La Sportiva News
Beth Rodden Redpoints Meltdown- 5.14c
After 5 months of working it out, Beth Rodden has redpointed the first ascent of Meltdown (5.14c). Meltdown is the world's hardest traditional rock climb done by a woman. Yosemite National Park, California. This news is so new check back to see the write up!

Has anybody done a harder trad route? I thought 14c was the hardest done so far.


patmay81


Mar 5, 2008, 3:18 PM
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Re: [dreadlock] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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is there any article on it online, thats pretty awesome. I'd love to see photos.


ozoneclimber


Mar 5, 2008, 3:19 PM
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Re: [veganclimber] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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What is the Cobra Crack rated? I know Trotter did that one, what a year ago?


wannabe


Mar 5, 2008, 3:22 PM
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Re: [dreadlock] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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Congrats to Beth Rodden and if see reads this, send some of that badA$$ funkness my way.


yokese


Mar 5, 2008, 4:23 PM
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Re: [ozoneclimber] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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ozoneclimber wrote:
What is the Cobra Crack rated? I know Trotter did that one, what a year ago?

5.14, no letter grade (AFAIK).
Copied and pasted from freakclimbing.com:

"The rating seems to be falling in around the 5.14b/c (8c/c+) mark. It deserves a variable grade because of it's thin nature. For some, the climb may feel like 5.14a/b, for others the climb may feel like 5.14c/d and on some rare occassions it could very well be impossible. So, for now, it's certainly the hardest pure crack climb in the world"


ozoneclimber


Mar 5, 2008, 4:31 PM
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Re: [yokese] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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I wasn't sure what the grade was. I knew that it was one continuous crack and super thin.


sungam


Mar 5, 2008, 5:18 PM
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Re: [ozoneclimber] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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Rhapsody was .14D trad.


yokese


Mar 5, 2008, 5:26 PM
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Re: [sungam] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Rhapsody was .14D trad.

It looks more like a face climbing than a crack climbing.... but I have no idea.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_cfMSG43tU

Edited because I've just realized that, although the title reads "14c crack", the discussion seems to be about the hardest "trad" and therefore sungam post was right on the spot.
I'm not so sure, though, how to translate Macleod's Rhapsody E11 7a to YDS.... 14c R? 14d R?


(This post was edited by yokese on Mar 5, 2008, 5:35 PM)


irregularpanda


Mar 5, 2008, 5:31 PM
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Re: [ozoneclimber] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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ozoneclimber wrote:
I wasn't sure what the grade was. I knew that it was one continuous crack and super thin.

I don't think anyone will know until it's repeated, either.
I kinda doubt anybody's gonna call it .15a though, I'm personally a fan of the + or - system.
I'd be stoked to see a pic of the line that rodden climbed.


rjtrials


Mar 5, 2008, 5:58 PM
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Re: [sungam] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Rhapsody was .14D trad.

I'm pretty sure Dave compared it to 8c+ and not 9a.

Gimme awhile to dig up the reference...

RJ


dhaulagiri


Mar 6, 2008, 6:11 AM
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Re: [dreadlock] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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here is more info:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/...amp;year=2008#n42914


dhaulagiri


Mar 6, 2008, 6:12 AM
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and here:

http://www.alpinist.com/...n-yosemite-hard-trad


billcoe_


Mar 6, 2008, 12:22 PM
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Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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dreadlock wrote:
La Sportiva News
Beth Rodden Redpoints Meltdown- 5.14c
After 5 months of working it out, Beth Rodden has redpointed the first ascent of Meltdown (5.14c). Meltdown is the world's hardest traditional rock climb done by a woman. Yosemite National Park, California. This news is so new check back to see the write up!

Good on her! I have a question, you say "5 months of working it out". I had seen a video of her on a Smith Rock climb and in the video she was shown repeatedly and endlessly toproping the thing, and new bolts for free climbing had sprouted up since I'd last aided that line.

Is that what that 5 months working it quote means?

BTW, I'm not being mean here, I just want to know if that is what it means, I know Yosemite has a different thing going with all that kind of stuff and I'm genuinely curious - thats all.


camhead


Mar 6, 2008, 2:09 PM
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Re: [billcoe_] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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billcoe_ wrote:
dreadlock wrote:
La Sportiva News
Beth Rodden Redpoints Meltdown- 5.14c
After 5 months of working it out, Beth Rodden has redpointed the first ascent of Meltdown (5.14c). Meltdown is the world's hardest traditional rock climb done by a woman. Yosemite National Park, California. This news is so new check back to see the write up!

Good on her! I have a question, you say "5 months of working it out". I had seen a video of her on a Smith Rock climb and in the video she was shown repeatedly and endlessly toproping the thing, and new bolts for free climbing had sprouted up since I'd last aided that line.

Is that what that 5 months working it quote means?

BTW, I'm not being mean here, I just want to know if that is what it means, I know Yosemite has a different thing going with all that kind of stuff and I'm genuinely curious - thats all.

well, it appears that "Meltdown" was done with all natural gear. So, even if she siege-projected it, she still redpointed it in good, ground-up trad style.

I do think it is interesting that the only 14b and 14c that Rodden has done have been FA's, and both have been unrepeated (Caldwell came close to sending "Optimist," but backed of because he was afraid he would break a hold. And perhaps because Rodden threatened him with no sex for a year if he sent it.).

It would be nice if either this, or "Optimist" (or Cobra Crack, for that matter) got repeated, to confirm the grades. Although, if Ron Kauk tried "Meltdown" when he was at his prime, and could not send it, this indicates that it is really difficult.


socalbolter


Mar 6, 2008, 3:27 PM
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Re: [camhead] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Although, if Ron Kauk tried "Meltdown" when he was at his prime, and could not send it, this indicates that it is really difficult.

Seeing as how at the time he had just done Magic Line (still unrepeated), this is indeed very telling as to the difficulty.

With the press that this and Cobra Crack have received, hopefully we'll see some repeats.

There are probably a few more lines like this lurking somewhere in the Valley, just waiting to be discovered.


towfer


Mar 7, 2008, 11:41 AM
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Re: [minexploration] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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Check it here:

http://www.facebook.com/...736882070&ref=mf


Partner j_ung


Mar 7, 2008, 11:56 AM
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Looks like a beautiful line in a beautiful setting.


caughtinside


Mar 7, 2008, 12:02 PM
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Rad!


camhead


Mar 7, 2008, 12:14 PM
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caughtinside wrote:


Rad!

hell yeah!

beautiful line. I love it when you hear about hard FA's that are PURE cracks.


wanderlustmd


Mar 7, 2008, 12:22 PM
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Re: [camhead] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
[image]http://photos-426.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sctm/v214/46/46/6666752426/n6666752426_349648_7315.jpg[/image]

Rad!

hell yeah!

beautiful line. I love it when you hear about hard FA's that are PURE cracks.

I can't believe Magic Line is still unrepeated. Maybe she should give it a go.

Good work Beth!!


camhead


Mar 7, 2008, 12:43 PM
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Re: [wanderlustmd] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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and, iirc, I believe that Kauk did magic line with pre-placed gear, so it still awaits a true trad redpoint.


Partner devkrev


Mar 7, 2008, 12:57 PM
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Re: [camhead] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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Cue random gym rat claiming small finger advantage in 3....2...

Tongue


Nice line.

dev


(This post was edited by devkrev on Mar 7, 2008, 1:00 PM)


sungam


Mar 7, 2008, 1:04 PM
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Re: [rjtrials] Beth Rodden Sends 14c Crack [In reply to]
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rjtrials wrote:
sungam wrote:
Rhapsody was .14D trad.

I'm pretty sure Dave compared it to 8c+ and not 9a.

Gimme awhile to dig up the reference...

RJ
I think it was a hard 8c+, not quite 9a. I think He and Sonnie discribed it as 5.14DRX or something. who knows. JP implies that the crux of his new route is like font 8. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=284644 :-o

-MagnuS

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