|
|
|
|
jughead
Mar 6, 2008, 11:42 AM
Post #1 of 18
(6077 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 23, 2002
Posts: 292
|
After recently browsing for some climbing videos on Youtube I found myself exploring some tutorials and lessons on anchors and a whole host of other things.
Since I've just got a job as a Rocksport instructor at Cheddar gorge here in the UK I was intrigued to have a look at some other folks instructional videos...
What I've found is rather worrying and I personally believe needs a massive response from the climbing community.
There is a website http://www.expertvillage.com/ which has made its goal to be to provide oodles of how to videos for the masses and also earn money for their "experts"
Money you say...?
So go forth and browse Youtube for some "How to's" on supposedly safe climbing and check out what you find.
So far I've seen belay instructional videos that show a variable control resistor (ATC XP) being fed through Upside down and Left handed for a right handed belayer :D
What we can also find are some videos on how to Repel safely... No no not Rappel We're repeling here ;)
Repeling safely involves being held by a single screwgate and using no back up whatsoever on the line :D (No shunt, no Prussik, No helmet)
I could go further on I believe I've seen an "anchor" with one piece involved being a free 50lb boulder... Would you like to be anchored off to a loose one of those above your head? (someone else reply if they see the same as I have)
Obviously what we have here is a lot of novice climbers or climbers with bad habits and no qualifications developing bad instructional videos for the masses.
No doubt there are some genuine experts on their panel but the majority of what I've seen hasn't been them.
It goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway) that NO ONE should be learning to climb from Youtube or otherwise, However I fear for the novice climber looking for guidance and studying technique whilest @ home coming across one of these "Expert" branded videos and taking the advice to heart.
It's only a matter of time until we get some crying mother about her son dying on a cliff who learned "The Daredevil reckless climbing sport" from Youtube (See the headlines now..)
Moderators and such do please forgive me if this comes across as a rant or over zealous in any way or indeed if I've posted in the wrong place, In any case I beg of you all to look at some of these following examples flag ones which you believe to be dangerous and find your own...
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=-hbd8CaDlbU
Death Triangle :D
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=WWVgS9wxZ8c
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Dp27jT8WOMQ
That's all the linking you should need, follow the quicklinks and let's eliminate this type of poor instruction.
|
|
|
|
|
ozoneclimber
Mar 6, 2008, 11:46 AM
Post #2 of 18
(6072 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2005
Posts: 250
|
Do a forum search for "this guy is a dumba$$" exactly, and you'll see what we've been bitching about for... oh I don't know, four days now.
|
|
|
|
|
jughead
Mar 6, 2008, 2:04 PM
Post #4 of 18
(6001 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 23, 2002
Posts: 292
|
http://climbonadventures.com/waiver.aspx
That's VERY worrying... Am I seeing a form that waives this moron of any responsibility? something that means whilest a kid is out on the crag with this idiot leading him to death that his parents are somehow responsible for that 
|
|
|
|
|
funkystumpy
Mar 6, 2008, 3:12 PM
Post #5 of 18
(5950 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2008
Posts: 40
|
Yeah, just keep reading jughead...toward the end someone actually contacted the guy and well, it turns out he isn't so bad after all and was just sharing what he was taught. It was the website that was promoting him as an "expert." The whole discussion got way out of hand...mob mentality I guess.
|
|
|
|
|
itstoearly
Mar 6, 2008, 3:36 PM
Post #6 of 18
(5920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 25, 2005
Posts: 166
|
I know I am probably going to get verbally crucified by someone for asking this, but I cannot see what people are talking about when they say the rope is being fed through the ATC upside down...
|
|
|
|
|
Mike805
Mar 6, 2008, 4:32 PM
Post #7 of 18
(5855 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2008
Posts: 43
|
.....so what. In every sport or hobby that I'm into (and it's a lot) there's a gaggle of so-called, self-appointed "experts". In fact, I'll go so far to say that in every walk of life there will be someone who claims to know everything. If people are willing to blindly follow these guys without cross-examining or thinking critically then I say let em. It's no skin off my back. Darwins theory at it's best.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Mar 6, 2008, 5:30 PM
Post #8 of 18
(5751 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
jughead wrote: http://climbonadventures.com/waiver.aspx That's VERY worrying... Am I seeing a form that waives this moron of any responsibility? something that means whilest a kid is out on the crag with this idiot leading him to death that his parents are somehow responsible for that
Conveniently, most waivers don't mean shit unless they are signed AFTER any accident. Otherwise you can make a strong case that you didn't actually know the risks when you signed the waiver.
|
|
|
|
|
irregularpanda
Mar 6, 2008, 6:02 PM
Post #9 of 18
(5695 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 1364
|
funkystumpy wrote: Yeah, just keep reading jughead...toward the end someone actually contacted the guy and well, it turns out he isn't so bad after all and was just sharing what he was taught. It was the website that was promoting him as an "expert." The whole discussion got way out of hand...mob mentality I guess.
Mob mentality indeed. He probably is a nice dude, just an armchair mountaineer/rockclimber. The other problem with this whole series of posts is that by complaining to each other about how this guy is SOOOOO dangerous, we're pretty much preaching to the choir.
I'm not defending his ineptitude nor the fact that he is purporting to be an expert when clearly he is not. I'm simply saying that we, the anonymously brave community of RC.com, are pissing into the wind. Who is our audience? Each other. Who's gonna listen to our moral and ample advice? Each other. Who cares? We do. Who will use this guys videos to learn how to rock climb? Anybody except us.
Edited because I can't spell guy.....
(This post was edited by irregularpanda on Mar 6, 2008, 6:27 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Mar 7, 2008, 5:42 PM
Post #11 of 18
(5514 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
This site suffers some serious Mother Hen syndrome.
OMG THINK OF THE CHILDREN!!!111
Its laughable, how pampered folks are.
Don't coddle the noobs!
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Mar 7, 2008, 6:18 PM
Post #12 of 18
(5482 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Not all youtube videos are bollox, check out climbing tools' videos.
|
|
|
|
|
GeneralBenson
Mar 7, 2008, 6:36 PM
Post #13 of 18
(5449 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2007
Posts: 270
|
Arrogant_Bastard wrote: [image]http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/4801/ohnoezvi7.gif[/image]
Hahahahahahahahahaha.
|
|
|
|
|
gunkiemike
Mar 8, 2008, 1:19 AM
Post #14 of 18
(5345 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
|
itstoearly wrote: I know I am probably going to get verbally crucified by someone for asking this, but I cannot see what people are talking about when they say the rope is being fed through the ATC upside down...
Video shows brake strand exiting upwards, climber's strand out the bottom of the ATC slot. To most, that's "upside down".
|
|
|
|
|
hugepedro
Mar 8, 2008, 11:24 AM
Post #15 of 18
(5283 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 2875
|
UGH! Now this is good UGH almost as good as the videos themselves UGH.
|
|
|
|
|
captainstatic
Mar 9, 2008, 3:18 AM
Post #16 of 18
(5178 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 203
|
IMO anyone who promotes themselves as a guide on the internet should have an AMGA or IMGA certificaiton.
|
|
|
|
|
the_alpine
Mar 9, 2008, 6:17 AM
Post #17 of 18
(5091 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2003
Posts: 371
|
Everybody's an expert from the ground (or the sidelines).
|
|
|
|
|
themadmilkman
Mar 11, 2008, 5:12 AM
Post #18 of 18
(4894 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 21, 2006
Posts: 510
|
petsfed wrote: jughead wrote: http://climbonadventures.com/waiver.aspx That's VERY worrying... Am I seeing a form that waives this moron of any responsibility? something that means whilest a kid is out on the crag with this idiot leading him to death that his parents are somehow responsible for that Conveniently, most waivers don't mean shit unless they are signed AFTER any accident. Otherwise you can make a strong case that you didn't actually know the risks when you signed the waiver.
The only people subject to a waiver are those who can't afford a good enough attorney. Sad but true.
|
|
|
|
|
|
