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keithspernak
Sep 13, 2007, 3:24 PM
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Yo,
Just asking to see if anyone cares, but I was seriously considering putting some anchor bolts mid way up a trad climb. It is at the Youtlkut Pillars, a place where hardly anyone climbs. I like to keep trad climbs, trad climbs but at this chossy crag I believe that putting in anchors half way up a 150' crack would bring a diamond out of the ruff. There is a great offwith crack that is suprisingly solid and clean for half the route, then one must pull an east loose buldge to absolute crap. I think putting anchors after the offwith part would make the climb more enjoyable and even more important safe. Just asking if anyone cares.
Thanks
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lucander
Sep 13, 2007, 3:42 PM
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I've climbed at the Pillars and was, like you, not particularly fond of the rock quality. Take it for what it is, let Smith be Smith, and leave Oregon's unsightly choss piles the way they are. Although Oregon doesn't have much fantastic stone, it has some of the biggest little adventures anywhere. It's been years but I remember Wolf Rock, Acker Rock, and some ground up FAs at Crater Lake being particularly good diamonds in the rough.
As a counter, I'll probably never revisit the grid bolted areas outlying Ashland - each route seemed softly graded (even by Oregon standards) and, far worse, nothing was unique about them.
All that said, I'll probably never climb anywhere in the state again and my voice probably is one of the few who holds this opinion. A better recourse would be to discuss the issue with other locals (do the Pillars ever have those?) who could likely be identified through Greg Orton.
Happy Climbing,
David
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tradmanclimbs
Sep 13, 2007, 4:11 PM
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If its an established trad climb with a decent gear anchor then the short answer is no. If the 2nd pitch is total dog poo and the local climbing comunity can come to a majority opinion that a bolted belay is a good idea there then yes. Good luck in the meantime hammer in a few pins , sling a chockstone, pound a hex in etc. slings and rings. If that anchor survives for a decade or so replace it with bolts...
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keithspernak
Mar 11, 2008, 5:18 PM
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O.K. , so if anyone ever reads this, the Pillars are off limits to new bolting. If you have the hankering to climb there, bring a brush (to clean) and two ropes and a few double length slings (if you want to top rope). Oh yeah, belay should probably wear a helmet (don't worry there will be no one there to see you with it on).
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Tree_wrangler
Mar 11, 2008, 5:33 PM
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1.) It's not just a climber's agreement that there will be no more bolting....it is illegal there to bolt beyond what's been done.
2.) I care. There's nothing wrong with Youtlkut, in fact, I like it lots, and so do lots of other folks who don't have any trouble there. It's already a diamond. If you're having problems, you should get some more experience or climb somewhere else.
3. ) Belayer doesn't need a helmet. Smart folks belay from the road, safely and comfortably. Helmets are generally smart everywhere though. No shame.
(This post was edited by Tree_wrangler on Mar 11, 2008, 5:34 PM)
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keithspernak
Mar 11, 2008, 10:19 PM
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I was kidding about the helmet comment. It's nice to hear that others get out there. I guess I'm not worthy enough though.
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Tree_wrangler
Mar 11, 2008, 11:26 PM
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Sorry, I was just in a real hurry and not really thoughtful.
Personally (legal issues aside), I sure wouldn't mind seeing development continue at Youtlkut. As you know, half or more of the columns remain unclimbed (or undocumented) and don't have top anchors.
But I don't really see the need to rework what's been climbed already. The rock quality really is pretty good there, it's just that it doesn't get climbed enough to become polished and greasy, like most of the over-climbed cracks at Smith, or at the Skinners columns.....
So, what route are you referring too, anyways? For the record, a massive detached column at the top of "Double Crack" made an ominous shifting sound when I yarded on it a couple of years ago. I just avoid it now, but it isn't reliably fused to the rest of the columns..........and it will be a real fright if someone eventually dislodges it......(it could kill multiple victims)
If I sounded a little.....defensive......It's just because I really dig Youtlkut. So far I've met two types of folks there (if at all)...the ones who hated it because of the minor inconveniences (like the rope-eater cracks), and folks who left raving about how great it was to have good cracks to climb.....
And of course...the setting is just lovely.
ciao.
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keithspernak
Mar 12, 2008, 12:12 AM
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Yeah, sorry if I came across a bit abrasive also. I had nothing to do today, so I was just cruising around rc.com and saw my old post and wanted to state that bolting is a no-no up there.
The climb I was referring to is The Dime. It protects very well, but the final thirty feet or so after pulling the bulge is loose. Bulge included.
By the way, I have never placed a bolt in my life, and if I was going to I would definitely consult several folks including the land management. I just wish there was a horn to sling or something for the first part of the climb. I guess it should just be top roped. I never thought of belaying from the road. Good call!!!
Anyway, if you see an old, rusty, red subaru parked at a crag somewhere that's me.
Take care,
Keith Spernak
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iching
Sep 21, 2009, 11:35 PM
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Registered: Feb 13, 2004
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Keith,
Top anchors would be a great improvement.
You have enough experience to know what is needed and what would be too much.
There are definitly bolts that could use replacing.
Tree Wrangler is incorrect. Bolting is not illegal. In fact he's full of shit.
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iching
Sep 23, 2009, 6:40 AM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Feb 13, 2004
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No, Joeseph.
This is the correct forum Youtlkut Pillars.
How are things on Beacon?
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