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Climbing around Univ. of Michigan, Ann Arbor
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styndall


Mar 17, 2008, 6:24 PM
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Climbing around Univ. of Michigan, Ann Arbor  (North_America: United_States: Michigan)
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I've got a potential spot for grad school at the University of Michigan, and I'm wondering what the climbing is like nearby. Is the best bet south, to Kentucky, or maybe north somewhere in Canada?

I know Michigan itself is pretty sparse, but are there any worthwhile areas? I'm also interested in hearing about other climbers in Ann Arbor. If you're local, post up.


deathbybowtie


Mar 23, 2008, 11:09 PM
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Re: [styndall] Climbing around Univ. of Michigan, Ann Arbor [In reply to]
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Grand Ledge is about a 45-minute to 1-hour drive from Ann Arbor, but it's average at best, and awful at worst (top rope only, pretty chossy rock, and it's ALWAYS muddy), but it gets the job done for day trips. Red River Gorge in Kentucky is about six hours away. I hear there's some locations in Canada about three hours from here, but I've not been able to find any more info about them than that they exist.


micdigi


Apr 11, 2008, 4:38 AM
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Re: [styndall] Climbing around Univ. of Michigan, Ann Arbor [In reply to]
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Just wanted to say I am from Canada and I have done some climbing in Ontario - Rattlesnake Point is a great place for climbing in Ontario. It's a little far from here being in Michigan. I haven't climbed here because I am not sure where to go. any ways hope this helps.


truello


Apr 11, 2008, 5:06 AM
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Re: [micdigi] Climbing around Univ. of Michigan, Ann Arbor [In reply to]
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I've never been there but it looks like Lion's Head is about 5.5-6 from you:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._Ontario/Lions_Head/

I've heard good things about it and have considered taking a trip from Pittsburgh.

I have been to the Red though and can say its worth a 20 hour drive let alone 6.


micdigi


Apr 11, 2008, 5:14 AM
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Re: [truello] Climbing around Univ. of Michigan, Ann Arbor [In reply to]
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I have done some climbing in Loin Head it is beautiful up the I also scuba diving and done more diving up there then climbing. But it's a great place for multi pitch


dynosore


Apr 11, 2008, 5:37 AM
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Re: [micdigi] Climbing around Univ. of Michigan, Ann Arbor [In reply to]
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What type of climbing are you looking for? Trad, sport, bouldering? Ann Arbor has a great gym, but for outdoors, you're at least 4 hours from anything good, Grand Ledge wears thin very quickly. If you are into moderate trad, send me a PM sometime....


Partner abe_ascends


Apr 11, 2008, 6:29 AM
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Re: [styndall] Climbing around Univ. of Michigan, Ann Arbor [In reply to]
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If you want the low-down on climbing in Ontario, Canada, check this:

http://ontarioaccesscoalition.com/

The closest (common) spots from Michigan will be:

Rattlesnake Point (TR and Trad, single pitch)
Kelso (Trad, Single Pitch)
Mt. Nemo (Trad and Sport, single pitch)

Lions Head, Whites Bluff, Cape Croker, and Old Baldy are great, but might be a bit far for you.
Bon Echo is also great for some multi-pitch trad, but you need boat access since the cliffs rise straight out of the water. It also might be kinda far.


micdigi


Apr 11, 2008, 6:48 AM
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Re: [dynosore] Climbing around Univ. of Michigan, Ann Arbor [In reply to]
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I am looking to better my skills I have done lots of top rope and very little lead and would like to get more into it.


milominderbinder


Apr 11, 2008, 7:01 AM
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Re: [styndall] Climbing around Univ. of Michigan, Ann Arbor [In reply to]
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Your options for climbing in AA are pretty limited. For university students, things are usually like this:

Planet-Rock (http://www.planet-rock.com/) is a gym located about a 10 minute drive from campus. It is quite large (hosted junior sport nationals last summer) and overall pretty nice. There you can find climbers of pretty much all skill levels, lots of new folks to a few 5.13+ climbers.

Umich has a climbing club (Michigan Climbing Club)...Pay $20 dues for the year and you get discounts at the gym and local gear shops, including specially priced long term passes.

Nobody bothers with Grand Ledge. Michigan State students drive to Planet-Rock rather than climb at Grand Ledge.

For serious sport climbing, pretty much everyone goes to the Red. It's about 5.5 to 6 hours away, and obviously some of the top sport in the country. At Planet-Rock you'll be able to find a wealth of people on any given weekend planning a trip, so hang around for a bit and meet some folks and you shouldn't be short of partners.

The New River Gorge also gets some trips for long weekends. It's around 8 hours drive.


olive


Apr 12, 2008, 5:13 PM
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Re: [milominderbinder] Climbing around Univ. of Michigan, Ann Arbor [In reply to]
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what milominderbinder says.

I am in Ann Arbor - noone I know ever goes to Grand Ledge. Generally, the common practice is going to Red River Gorge or sometimes New during spring and fall, and to Canada (Lions Head, Mount Nemo, etc. etc.) during summer. And you can go iceclimbing in the winter (UP and canada).


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