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mayo


Nov 17, 2007, 12:16 AM
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bigfatrock


Dec 11, 2007, 2:53 PM
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Re: [mayo] why so many disagreements on route ratings? [In reply to]
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Key foot placements get polished, holds break off. I know one 5.8 that has a key foot placement totally polished, no grain left to get friction on at all. I don't know what the route goes at now, but that one move is really tough.

The rock here isn't great, so over time the route changes.


swaghole


Dec 11, 2007, 3:39 PM
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Re: [mayo] why so many disagreements on route ratings? [In reply to]
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The whole rating thing can be very subjective. Asking local climbers before heading out can be invaluable. Different areas = different rules.
Routes are usually rated based on the most difficult move. A route can be rated at 5.9 if is has one 5.9 move It will feel easier then another 5.9 route that is sustained 5.9 all the way up.
I also find that routes that were established a long time ago can be much more difficult then a newer more recent route having the same rating (yes, I've peed my pants on an old school 5.6 trad).

Hope this helps.


mayo


Dec 12, 2007, 11:10 AM
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Re: [swaghole] why so many disagreements on route ratings? [In reply to]
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i agree completely, i guess i thought some of the routes i've seen this on wernt that difficult i was somewhat surprised they could carry the grade given and then i logged on here and they were even graded more difficult, and my thinkin its easier could be due to the fact that i'm 6' and have monkey arms, but i just was curious what the deal was, thanks


redd0019


Mar 18, 2008, 9:21 AM
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Re: [mayo] why so many disagreements on route ratings? [In reply to]
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I've climbed at RRC quite a few times while out in Co Springs, I happen to be a big fan of the area, as I enjoy sport leading and I like sandstone. Speaking of sandstone, you have to remember that you are climbing a sandstone and it is not as hard as other types of Sandstone, this is not Red Rocks in Vegas. I've had pieces flake off, I try to be careful with which holds I use, etc. As with Garden of the Gods, the ratings will continually change as the routes become more used, polished and as the weather detoriates them.


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