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USnavy
Mar 25, 2008, 1:25 AM
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jt512
Mar 25, 2008, 1:32 AM
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USnavy wrote: Does anyone make a stick clip pole that can be disassembled and taken up on a route with you? There is a route I am thinking of climbing that’s a 5.7 A0 / 5.10c. The roue is trad but there is three bolts over the 10c section. The route becomes an A0 when you stick clip the sport bolts and pull yourself over the 10c section. I would like to bring a stick clip for that section so I can aid over it. That is unless anyone else knows how I can clip the bolts from 8 feet below them.
You could learn to climb 10c.
Jay
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vegastradguy
Mar 25, 2008, 1:33 AM
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generally speaking, stick clip poles are tent poles, so they collapse nicely. plenty of aid climbers do it this way. they are also a PITA to deal with on a free route.
that said, if its 5.7 A0, you shouldnt need a stick clip- at most you would need to stand in a sling on your last piece to reach the bolt, but more than likely you can french free through it.
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USnavy
Mar 25, 2008, 1:46 AM
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lena_chita
Moderator
Mar 25, 2008, 2:00 AM
Post #5 of 21
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You should put on your flame-retardant suit right now...
Yes, there are stick clips that fold up like a tent pole. And it may come in handy once in a while if you severely mis-judge a route, get stuck and don't have a leaver 'biner to bail on, or just want to get to the top for some reason. It's a big PITA but it isn't unheard of.
But to actually PLAN on climbing a route this way??!!!
WHY?!?!?!
Do yourself a favor, climb something else, and save that route until you are able to climb it properly.
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vegastradguy
Mar 25, 2008, 5:43 AM
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USnavy wrote: Could you describe (or provide a link) the French free technique? I have heard of it before but being that I am not a big multi-pitch climber or aid climber I haven’t had to aid many routes or cheat my way up. I have conducted a search on here and Google and I did not find a whole lot that explains what exactly it is.
french freeing is essentially just pulling on the draw to reach the next good hold or bolt instead of dealing with a hard move. your belayer can also take if necessary.
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krusher4
Mar 25, 2008, 1:15 PM
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i agree with JT, with modern training tech. and a little weight loss this is now a grade that normal people can reach, I would say work a little harder, wait a little while and do the route when your ready, don't lower the route down to your level.
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bigfatrock
Mar 25, 2008, 1:47 PM
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Come on guys. Whatever happened to just enjoying climbing? Sure doing the route pure and clean is the best way to do the route, but if you just want to get out and climb something for fun then who cares how you climb it?
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steady_climbing
Mar 25, 2008, 9:33 PM
Post #10 of 21
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USnavy wrote: Does anyone make a stick clip pole that can be disassembled and taken up on a route with you? There is a route I am thinking of climbing that’s a 5.7 A0 / 5.10c. The roue is trad but there is three bolts over the 10c section. The route becomes an A0 when you stick clip the sport bolts and pull yourself over the 10c section. I would like to bring a stick clip for that section so I can aid over it. That is unless anyone else knows how I can clip the bolts from 8 feet below them.
How about a few grammer exercises to warm up?
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USnavy
Mar 25, 2008, 9:36 PM
Post #11 of 21
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Well I plan to French free it but I need to clip the bolt in order to do that. I can’t place any gear to stand on because there is no place to place any gear. That is why this section is bolted. So I have to devise a method to clip the next bolt up from the previous bolt. That’s where the stick clip comes into play. A stick clip is the only thing I can think of that will enable me French free the section.
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shockabuku
Mar 25, 2008, 10:03 PM
Post #12 of 21
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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steady_climbing wrote: USnavy wrote: Does anyone make a stick clip pole that can be disassembled and taken up on a route with you? There is a route I am thinking of climbing that’s a 5.7 A0 / 5.10c. The roue is trad but there is three bolts over the 10c section. The route becomes an A0 when you stick clip the sport bolts and pull yourself over the 10c section. I would like to bring a stick clip for that section so I can aid over it. That is unless anyone else knows how I can clip the bolts from 8 feet below them. How about a few grammer exercises to warm up?
And maybe spelling, too. 
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vegastradguy
Mar 26, 2008, 1:29 AM
Post #13 of 21
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USnavy wrote: Well I plan to French free it but I need to clip the bolt in order to do that. I can’t place any gear to stand on because there is no place to place any gear. That is why this section is bolted. So I have to devise a method to clip the next bolt up from the previous bolt. That’s where the stick clip comes into play. A stick clip is the only thing I can think of that will enable me French free the section.
generally speaking, bolts protect the cruxes, so you should be able to climb up to the first bolt at 5.7.
if not, then i'd suggest waiting a bit and getting slightly stronger- 5.8/5.9 should do the trick.
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blondgecko
Moderator
Mar 26, 2008, 4:40 AM
Post #14 of 21
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Ok, for a serious reply:
Try a golf store. They sell collapsible poles with scoops on the end for retrieving golf balls from the water. They collapse down to the length of your average golf club, and extend to around 4 times that. With a little tinkering, I'm guessing you could make quite a decent stick clip pole out of one of those.
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Mike805
Mar 26, 2008, 4:25 PM
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Get a painters pole. They have different sizes and they are all extendable/collapsible. You can get them at your local hardware store.
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patto
Mar 26, 2008, 11:23 PM
Post #17 of 21
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USnavy wrote: Does anyone make a stick clip pole that can be disassembled and taken up on a route with you? There is a route I am thinking of climbing that’s a 5.7 A0 / 5.10c. The roue is trad but there is three bolts over the 10c section. The route becomes an A0 when you stick clip the sport bolts and pull yourself over the 10c section. I would like to bring a stick clip for that section so I can aid over it. That is unless anyone else knows how I can clip the bolts from 8 feet below them.
That route is Royal Arches, Yosemite.* You don't need to bring a stick clip. There is an old static line hangin from the bolts that you use to tarzan across on.
Personally I found the route a little tedious. Try to simulclimb the first easy pitches to speed things up.
*If I'm wrong please ignore this post. However I do find it surprising that it took a foreigner to identify this route.
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AZBones
Apr 8, 2008, 9:34 PM
Post #18 of 21
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Registered: Nov 20, 2006
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Get a squid and attach it to a treking pole. I have one for those oh shit scenarios and it fits nicely on the side of my pack. For me it works fine with my big ape index (I'm 6'4") and the 5' or so of pole should reach.
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shimanilami
Apr 8, 2008, 9:45 PM
Post #19 of 21
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
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bigfatrock wrote: Come on guys. Whatever happened to just enjoying climbing? Sure doing the route pure and clean is the best way to do the route, but if you just want to get out and climb something for fun then who cares how you climb it?
You're completely missing the point of RC.com, which is to denigrate others' climbing and writing styles for the sole purpose of boosting one's ego.
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shockabuku
Apr 8, 2008, 9:54 PM
Post #20 of 21
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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shimanilami wrote: You're completely missing the point of RC.com, which is to denigrate others' climbing and writing styles for the sole purpose of boosting one's ego.
That's not the sole point. I think your biased veiwpoint has lead you to miss the fact that sometimes it's about trying to make the other person feel like shit about themselves.
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irregularpanda
Apr 8, 2008, 9:55 PM
Post #21 of 21
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jt512 wrote: You could learn to climb 10c. Jay
Yes, and if you must have the stick clip, you could clip the first bolt, and then french free after that. I've seen people climbing with a stick-clip up routes @ smith rock so many times that I just don't really want to go back to smith anymore...
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