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Orthotics or Custom Insoles in Rock Shoes?
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catbird_seat


Mar 25, 2008, 10:04 PM
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Orthotics or Custom Insoles in Rock Shoes?
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I've worn custom orthotics in my street shoes, running shoes and boots for years to keep my plantar faciitis under control. Recently, the short time in the gym without the orthotics has been enough to bring on heel pain.

I fashioned some insoles from a pair of Spencos by cutting them down with a knife so they fit in my Five-Ten Spires. They seem to work.

I was wondering if anyone else has had good luck with this.


shoo


Mar 25, 2008, 10:32 PM
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Re: [catbird_seat] Orthotics or Custom Insoles in Rock Shoes? [In reply to]
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As a user of custom orthotics in pretty much all shoes I wear, I have to say I think they're going to work pretty poorly in rock shoes. Pretty much anything cushioning your toes from the rock that isn't rubber, especially things that could slide inside the shoe, is going to decrease performance.

On another note, what's the point in doing this? You're spending the vast majority of your time in rock shoes on your toes, which means the soles aren't really engaged anyway. This is not what orthotics are made to do.

However, I can understand this if you plan on wearing the shoes all day or in a gym, where you'll be standing/walking a lot in the shoes.

What could work is if you glue the back 3/4 of an insole to the inside of the shoe, leaving your toes normal. Even then you're sacrificing some performance, but preserving enough of it to work fine in a gym.


leeroyjenkins


Mar 25, 2008, 11:01 PM
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Re: [catbird_seat] Orthotics or Custom Insoles in Rock Shoes? [In reply to]
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I also wear orthotics in every shoe. However I leave them out of my rock shoe and it hasn't really bothered me, except when micro edge over and over again.


catbird_seat


Mar 25, 2008, 11:27 PM
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Re: [shoo] Orthotics or Custom Insoles in Rock Shoes? [In reply to]
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The orthotic I used is only 3/4 length, as I said. It does not extend to the toes.


shockabuku


Mar 26, 2008, 12:37 AM
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Re: [catbird_seat] Orthotics or Custom Insoles in Rock Shoes? [In reply to]
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catbird_seat wrote:
The orthotic I used is only 3/4 length, as I said. It does not extend to the toes.

You didn't said that.


catbird_seat


Mar 26, 2008, 8:11 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] Orthotics or Custom Insoles in Rock Shoes? [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
catbird_seat wrote:
The orthotic I used is only 3/4 length, as I said. It does not extend to the toes.

You didn't said that.
Doh. Well, anyway. It must work, because this morning the foot feels much better. The ibuprofen probably is playing a part too.


reno


Mar 26, 2008, 5:32 PM
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Re: [catbird_seat] Orthotics or Custom Insoles in Rock Shoes? [In reply to]
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catbird_seat wrote:
It must work, because this morning the foot feels much better. The ibuprofen probably is playing a part too.

Not to thread drift too much, but that was going to be my first question: What, other than orthotic inserts, have you done to treat the plantar fasciitis?

I've been out of the sports physical therapy career path for well over a decade, but we never provided orthotics unless an aggressive course of PT had been done without success (stretching, ice, NSAIDs, ultrasound, etc.)

Just curious is all. No offense intended if you've already done all this.


ptlong


Mar 26, 2008, 5:40 PM
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Re: [catbird_seat] Orthotics or Custom Insoles in Rock Shoes? [In reply to]
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I climbed with a guy who wears orthotics in his rock shoes. His problem (sesamoiditis) was different than yours and this might have some bearing on whether it would work or not. He had orthotics made from carbon fiber. And he wore pretty comfy sized shoes (they were either Kaukulators or Megas). If you want to put them in super sensitive sport shoes it probably ain't gonna work, but you already know that.

Anyhow, it might be worth asking your podiatrist about fitting carbon fiber orthotics into your rock shoes. Let us know if it works.


pandohannah


May 27, 2011, 2:44 PM
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Re: [catbird_seat] Orthotics or Custom Insoles in Rock Shoes? [In reply to]
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I wear very rigid 3/4 insoles and I don't put them in my climbing shoes because the ruin the fit of the rest of the shoes. This doesn't bother me climbing at all but I struggle to belay because I can't balance properly without them. Has anyone else had this problem, or maybe an answer? Thanks


gblauer
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May 31, 2011, 7:06 PM
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Re: [catbird_seat] Orthotics or Custom Insoles in Rock Shoes? [In reply to]
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My husband made me custom molded carbon fiber orthotics for my climbing shoes. First he made impression of my feet in plaster, then he made a latex mold. After that he used carbon fiber in the latex mold to create the orthotics. He cut them down to fit them in my rock climbing shoes.

I need a very stiff shoe because I have arthritis in my big toes. I ordered a shoe 1/2 size larger to accomodate my orthotics. I love my orthotics and I am totally used to having them in my shoes. I honestly don't think I could climb without them.


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