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lhwang
Mar 29, 2008, 12:00 AM
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I'll have 10 days at the end of September (September 20-30) and am looking for suggestions for good climbing destinations. Has to be somewhere easily accessible from Calgary (either by road or air and we're thinking western U.S.), and we'd prefer to go somewhere we haven't been before (so most of southern Alberta/B.C., Smith Rock, Yosemite, City of Rocks, J-tree and Red Rocks are out). Alpine, sport, trad, bouldering, it's all good.
Any thoughts?
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macherry
Mar 29, 2008, 4:30 PM
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montana?
i've heard there's some climbing around Butte
frenchman's coulee in Wa state?
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jumpingrock
Mar 29, 2008, 6:41 PM
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Europe? ;-)
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skinner
Mar 30, 2008, 10:23 PM
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jumpingrock wrote: Europe? ;-)
I guess Europe is technically *easily accessible* from Calgary.. that is if you don't mind spending 2 of your 10 days sitting on an airplane!
What kind of climbing are you looking at doing?
September has offered up some of the nicest weather I've ever experienced on the west coast. The summer crowds have dwindled somewhat by then which is nice as well.
I'm not sure how much effort you want to put in to getting to a spot, but if Squamish isn't your bag or if you're like me and find that humans in general can be annoying (when you find them camped on the route you just drove for 13 hours to climb) you might want to consider Powell River, where I'm planning on spending the last 2 weeks of August.
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curt
Mar 31, 2008, 4:54 AM
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macherry wrote: montana? i've heard there's some climbing around Butte frenchman's coulee in Wa state?
Frenchman's Coulee sucks.
Curt
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granite_grrl
Mar 31, 2008, 11:36 AM
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The East Coast has some great stuff that time of the year if you're looking to fly. Driving I would take a look at Devils Tower, looks like its only about 13 hours from Calgary.
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lhwang
Mar 31, 2008, 2:53 PM
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Ah yes... I do have the Powell River guidebook.
Anyway, the trip is going to be a post-wedding trip (not the honeymoon though). Skinner, we'd be interested in just about any kind of climbing... somewhere like the Bugs, Smith Rock, Potrero Chico or City of Rocks would be perfect.
Macherry, tell me more about this Frenchman's coulee.
Devil's Tower sounds intriguing too.
We were also thinking maybe Moab or Indian Creek.
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macherry
Mar 31, 2008, 8:29 PM
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lhwang wrote: Ah yes... I do have the Powell River guidebook. Anyway, the trip is going to be a post-wedding trip (not the honeymoon though). Skinner, we'd be interested in just about any kind of climbing... somewhere like the Bugs, Smith Rock, Potrero Chico or City of Rocks would be perfect. Macherry, tell me more about this Frenchman's coulee. Devil's Tower sounds intriguing too. We were also thinking maybe Moab or Indian Creek.
frenchman's coulee is in eastern washington state, near the gorge (concert site). it's basalt columns. i spent a weekend there last spring.
it was fun, mostly bolted sport. we climbed there because it's in close proximity to the tri-cities,WA., area where i live part-time.
a nice weekend getaway................Curt differs, but we had a good time.
If it's your only trip of the year, post wedding, i wouldn't recommend it...........there is better climbing
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curt
Apr 1, 2008, 5:50 AM
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macherry wrote: frenchman's coulee is in eastern washington state, near the gorge (concert site). it's basalt columns. i spent a weekend there last spring. it was fun, mostly bolted sport. we climbed there because it's in close proximity to the tri-cities,WA., area where i live part-time. a nice weekend getaway................Curt differs, but we had a good time. If it's your only trip of the year, post wedding, i wouldn't recommend it........... there is better climbing
Yes--like anywhere else. Frenchman's Coulee is extreme choss--any hold there can snap off with little warning.
Curt
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macherry
Apr 1, 2008, 3:06 PM
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curt wrote: macherry wrote: frenchman's coulee is in eastern washington state, near the gorge (concert site). it's basalt columns. i spent a weekend there last spring. it was fun, mostly bolted sport. we climbed there because it's in close proximity to the tri-cities,WA., area where i live part-time. a nice weekend getaway................Curt differs, but we had a good time. If it's your only trip of the year, post wedding, i wouldn't recommend it........... there is better climbingYes--like anywhere else. Frenchman's Coulee is extreme choss--any hold there can snap off with little warning. Curt
at the squamish hostel, there's a huge chunk of rock with a bolt in it, story has it, it came off a climb at frenchman's coulee
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alpenweg
Apr 1, 2008, 3:44 PM
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we have opened our home in eastern switzerland as a 5 star climbers hostel
we make it affordable for climbers to experience the splendor of the alps (affordable)
the limestone and granit are great! depends on what u want
sport, multipitch up to 22 pitches, or wild?
if the weather is bad in the north go to the south and visa versa
i already have guests during the summer months but sure that room at the in can be made
when this peaks your interest please dialog with me to see how we can meet your needs
i have great knowledge of both south and north climbing opportunities
if u would like a reference of past guests please feel free to ask and info will be provided
yours in adventure
ernest family and alps
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lhwang
Apr 1, 2008, 11:21 PM
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Well... won't be our only climbing trip of the year, but does sound like it's best left for another occasion.
Now we're thinking maybe Boulder, CO or else Bishop?
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kriso9tails
Apr 1, 2008, 11:30 PM
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I was just in Bishop for a week... hideous place that. =p
It's a little sharp, but was way easier on the hands than Joshua Tree was. There's also a fair bit of sport just... um, north(?) in Owen's River Gorge, but I didn't have time to check it out. Around 5 hrs drive if you fly to Vegas first; 18 or so for me to get back to Vancouver just driving.
(This post was edited by kriso9tails on Apr 1, 2008, 11:34 PM)
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livvy
Apr 1, 2008, 11:39 PM
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If you end up going to Boulder and need some beta let me know. I live a few hours south of there right now so I climb more often at Shelf Road than in Boulder but a few people I climb with are based in Denver/Boulder so I could track down some climbing and area information for you.
(This post was edited by livvy on Apr 1, 2008, 11:40 PM)
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skinner
Apr 2, 2008, 1:12 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: The East Coast has some great stuff that time of the year if you're looking to fly. Driving I would take a look at Devils Tower, looks like its only about 13 hours from Calgary.
Now there's one of those "Always wanted to do" on my tick list. Great idea granite_grrl. How are you doing btw?
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granite_grrl
Apr 2, 2008, 1:47 PM
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skinner wrote: granite_grrl wrote: The East Coast has some great stuff that time of the year if you're looking to fly. Driving I would take a look at Devils Tower, looks like its only about 13 hours from Calgary. Now there's one of those " Always wanted to do" on my tick list. Great idea granite_grrl. How are you doing btw?
Dude, its 13 hours....totally on the long weekend list! Dooooiittt!
Here's some shots from our trip 2 summers ago to get you going:
http://www.pbase.com/granite_grrl/tower_2006
The place has a magic air about it....or something else corny like that  .
I'm doing okay. Still debating the hardware removal. It would be cool to head out West again to the mountins this summer, but I have a feeling that we'll be doing a trip in the South East this fall instead.
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skinner
Apr 2, 2008, 7:22 PM
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lhwang wrote: Ah yes... I do have the Powell River guidebook. Anyway, the trip is going to be a post-wedding trip (not the honeymoon though). Skinner, we'd be interested in just about any kind of climbing... somewhere like the Bugs, Smith Rock, Potrero Chico or City of Rocks would be perfect. Macherry, tell me more about this Frenchman's coulee. Devil's Tower sounds intriguing too. We were also thinking maybe Moab or Indian Creek.
Now that you've named off everywhere I'd rather be right now then at work.. 
with all those options, I have no idea how you are going to decide. But I am definitely going to visit the Bugs this season..(well the Howsers actually) and.. I think I'll have to find some way to go touch The Tower before the snow flies again!
Awesome photos granite_grrl .. that rainbow shot is just unbelievable, a calender pic for sure!
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lhwang
Apr 2, 2008, 9:41 PM
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Ding ding ding... I think we have a winner...
Devil's Tower is still pretty intriguing... GG, would there be enough there for a week's worth of climbing though?
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granite_grrl
Apr 3, 2008, 1:14 AM
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lhwang wrote: Ding ding ding... I think we have a winner... Devil's Tower is still pretty intriguing... GG, would there be enough there for a week's worth of climbing though?
Gawd, I spent two weeks there with my husband a couple of summers ago. Lots of stuff out there I want to go back and get on. That same summer he spent almost a month and a half there, and he could easily spend the entire summer out there.
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chossmonkey
Apr 3, 2008, 12:09 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: lhwang wrote: Ding ding ding... I think we have a winner... Devil's Tower is still pretty intriguing... GG, would there be enough there for a week's worth of climbing though? Gawd, I spent two weeks there with my husband a couple of summers ago. Lots of stuff out there I want to go back and get on. That same summer he spent almost a month and a half there, and he could easily spend the entire summer out there.
The first pitches of harder routes can make excellent easier routes as well. Most pitches are 150'+. A double rack is necessary for many routes, though passive gear works well there so it doesn't need to be all cams to be double.
If you aren't good at cracks the grades can seem a little stiff. El Cracko Diablo is a good introduction to the Tower since there are a lot of face holds to supplement the jamming.
Our friend Frank runs a B&B and guide service out there. http://www.devilstowerlodge.com/ He lets climbers camp at his place for small donations. You could also look into getting a room if that is more your thing. I have walked from his place and was climbing in a half hour.
The Black Hills are very close as well, 1-2 hours depending on where you want to go. There is bolted limestone (pockets) in Spearfish Canyon and granite crystal pinching around Rushmore and Sylvan Lake. Rushmore is mostly low commitment sport, while Sylvan Lake is bolted more traditionally and can get heady.
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