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adeptus


Apr 2, 2008, 7:23 AM
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skiclimb


Apr 3, 2008, 9:15 AM
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Re: [adeptus] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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Don't just cave or bivy.. You have a solid posibility of being stuck in a couple spots (without cave potential) in multiday storms with high wind.. With a little luck you'll waltz the whole route in perfect weather....BUT you may not.

Dragonfly is a good stove.... the XGK is a little better for melting snow. I'm an XGK fanatic. Many peopel have used whisperlights. However it takes significantly longer to melt/boil water with a whisperlight than an XGK or Dragonfly


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Apr 3, 2008, 2:00 PM)


fool


Apr 3, 2008, 12:18 PM
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Re: [skiclimb] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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Jetboil? I'm asking that as a question, not necessarily a recommendation, just because I thought that's what a lot of people are using nowadays. No?


originalsin


Apr 3, 2008, 1:10 PM
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Re: [adeptus] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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i am a little suprised at the simplicity of your questions considering you going to be attempting an alaska grade 5 route.


adeptus


Apr 4, 2008, 6:10 AM
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skiclimb


Apr 4, 2008, 8:32 AM
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Re: [adeptus] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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Not gonna be as efficient as the XGK..but nothing is.

Question is wether it will work as well as a whisperlight... dunno until you've talked to someone who has used it above 17k and used a whisperlight.

I've used both whisperlights and XGKs at that altitude. Basic difference is ..boiling water is something you are willing to do at 17k with an xgk..melting water becomes just fine instead of boiling it when all you have is a whisperlight.

I assume you plan to be well acclimatized for you cassin push. Generally that mean extended time at 14-2 and excursions to 17-2 on the WB.

Enjoy what most who have done the research consider probably the 2nd largest mountain in the world. Logan being definately larger and kanchenjunga possibly depending how you define it.

The thing can be a bit aweinspiring especially the first time. But then people seem to get used to it QUICKLY BECOMEING COMPLACENT IN GOOD WEATHER.

Thats the extent of my preaching.. gluck have an exceptional trip.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Apr 4, 2008, 8:48 AM)


jhump


Apr 5, 2008, 6:02 AM
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Re: [originalsin] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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Because his questions are not what Grade 5 Alaska climbers would ask? I love the internet! Take a look at his pics and ascent log- M9, Cerro Torre, Eiger Nordwand- I think he may just manage. Regardless of his questions in the crux internet pregame.

On the stove issue, I had good luck with a modified hanging MSR dragonfly. These days I would take my Jetboil for the big push, and another flame thrower like the Dragonfly or XGK for melting snow along the way.

Best of luck.

Jeremy


go_dyno


Apr 5, 2008, 5:13 PM
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Re: [jhump] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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I have 2 old style XGK II and they are great and my go-to stove. I really want to get the new style which seems like they may have made some great improvements dealing with the packability issues and the wire pot arms slip factor. I take the wire arms the pot sits on and file sharp serrations into them to better grip onto the pots. It takes 5 minutes to do. I use the trillium base also, b/c it saves me so much time and headache which is energy...that its worth the weight ( to me) . You will need the wind shield which ever stove you use it is absolutely worth its weight in efficiency of fuel and boil time. I usually carry the repair kit or do a very thorough stove check and leave it behind, but not often because I've had it save my ass once. XGK is noisy but a comforting noise when you need it! I would consider using the starter paste (which I never do) but I have had the thing go Malitov Cocktail on me once and had to throw it as far as I could b/c I thought it was gonna blow up. The other team near by got to razz me for hours. My .02 cents.


adnix


Apr 19, 2008, 1:55 AM
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Re: [jhump] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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jhump wrote:
These days I would take my Jetboil for the big push, and another flame thrower like the Dragonfly or XGK for melting snow along the way.

The Jetboil is very nice if it's sunny and you have plenty of time. But it 's also painfully slow if it's cold and you're in a hurry.


(This post was edited by adnix on Apr 19, 2008, 1:56 AM)


adnix


Apr 19, 2008, 2:04 AM
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jhump wrote:
Take a look at his pics and ascent log- M9, Cerro Torre, Eiger Nordwand- I think he may just manage.

Gongrats on the Cerro Torre, Adeptus!

I guess the weather was quite good this year in Patagonia? I was about to be there for a second go on the Fitzoy but my friend ran out of money, and we decided going to the Alps instead. Then he got sick and I ended up doing a winter climb on the Blåmannen with some other guys.

I hate it when this shit happens. Now I'm thinking about moving to the Swiss to get any climbing done. Buena suerte with the Cassin!


reno


Apr 19, 2008, 8:02 AM
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Re: [adnix] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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adnix wrote:
Now I'm thinking about moving to the Swiss to get any climbing done.

I'm heading there this summer. Italian Ridge of the Matterhorn, then over to Mont Blanc for... well, haven't decided yet.


adeptus


Jul 10, 2008, 5:20 AM
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the_climber


Jul 10, 2008, 8:38 AM
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Re: [adeptus] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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Congrats on a sucessfull accent of the Cassin Ridge!


bob_54b


Jul 10, 2008, 9:03 AM
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Re: [originalsin] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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originalsin wrote:
i am a little suprised at the simplicity of your questions considering you going to be attempting an alaska grade 5 route.

ditto...this is a scary question.


the_climber


Jul 10, 2008, 9:40 AM
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Re: [bob_54b] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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bob_54b wrote:
originalsin wrote:
i am a little suprised at the simplicity of your questions considering you going to be attempting an alaska grade 5 route.

ditto...this is a scary question.

How is asking for advice on a stove in the remotest sence scary? Even given the guy's intended route. Most folks heading out on serious routes underestimate the simple items in their kit, honestly I thought of it as a resonabel question from the get go. Look at it now, he managed an accent in a good time and with the proper extras and "simple" pieces of kit.


markc


Jul 10, 2008, 10:24 AM
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Re: [bob_54b] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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bob_54b wrote:
originalsin wrote:
i am a little suprised at the simplicity of your questions considering you going to be attempting an alaska grade 5 route.

ditto...this is a scary question.

What I love is that you find it scary after the OP has reported a successful ascent. I think you can stop worrying about him now.


time2clmb


Jul 10, 2008, 5:11 PM
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Re: [bob_54b] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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bob_54b wrote:
originalsin wrote:
i am a little suprised at the simplicity of your questions considering you going to be attempting an alaska grade 5 route.

ditto...this is a scary question.

You are an idiot for posting that AFTER he put up pics of his success. And after some one pointed out some of his experience on A3 ED1, A3, ED2, WI6 routes...ect ect.

(This post was edited by time2clmb on Jul 10, 2008, 9:20 PM)


the_climber


Jul 11, 2008, 8:56 AM
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Re: [time2clmb] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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time2clmb wrote:
bob_54b wrote:
originalsin wrote:
i am a little suprised at the simplicity of your questions considering you going to be attempting an alaska grade 5 route.

ditto...this is a scary question.

You are an idiot for posting that AFTER he put up pics of his success. And after some one pointed out some of his experience on A3 ED1, A3, ED2, WI6 routes...ect ect.

Isn't there some quote that goes along the lines of "think about how stupid the average person is, then remember 50% of people are dumber than that"

Perhaps this is the explanation for bob.


theguy


Jul 11, 2008, 9:48 AM
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Re: [the_climber] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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In reply to:
think about how stupid the average person is, then remember 50% of people are dumber than that

Thank you; I never expected to experience satori on rc.com.


skiclimb


Jul 11, 2008, 4:31 PM
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Re: [adeptus] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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Big time Grats on a successful ascent of such a classic and serious route.

XGK for the win as always :)

BTW did you get any decent pics of the upper South face close to or up to the summit ridge? the climbers right side of the cassin?

Please let me know.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Jul 12, 2008, 10:18 AM)


adeptus


Jul 12, 2008, 4:57 AM
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adnix


Jul 29, 2008, 10:47 AM
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Re: [adeptus] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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I was browsing through your pictures. Which pitch on Fitzroy was this? It looks like it's on the last pitches before easier mixed ground.




sungam


Jul 30, 2008, 5:34 AM
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Re: [adnix] Gear for Alaska [In reply to]
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That photo is like an orgasm.
Only better.


rangerrob


Aug 11, 2008, 5:36 PM
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Nice job on the Cassin man!


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