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Ed Leeper -any old Summits out there?
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billcoe_


Apr 21, 2008, 4:19 PM
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Ed Leeper -any old Summits out there?
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Reading the pull testing that Aric was doing made me think of Ed Leeper. Doe's anyone have any old summits with his stuff in it they can scan and share?

Ed Leeper was famous for a few things. First, he was a physicist and a scientist. However, he was also a kick ass climber in a day when gear was shit and not many climbed hard. Ed developed one of the earliest portable pull testers and would routinely shock and amaze folks when he published the results of pitons and bolts getting yanked and easily ganked in Summit magazine in the 60's and 70's. His methodology was solid and beyond question.

Ed used the results to develop better versions of both hangers and pitons (the famous Leeper Z pins still in very high demand). He did make a few other items, including an early anti-piton chalk -a stopper made out of the same high tensile steel that the pins utilized and a very light but strong nut tool.

Ed recently made the news again when he took out a full 2 page newspaper add and recalled, maybe 20 years after the last one was made and sold, his old 1/4" Leeper Bolt hangers, after a couple had been found to develop stress cracks.

They damn near pretty much broke the mold after Ed came out of it.

Anyone have any old Summit mags they can share with that testing stuff in it?


healyje


Apr 21, 2008, 5:05 PM
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Re: [billcoe_] Ed Leeper -any old Summits out there? [In reply to]
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Ed is still at it...

http://silencingthefields.com/book.html


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