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charlie_k
Apr 22, 2008, 12:55 AM
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I am coming over in november from the UK for a holiday and want to spend a few days climbing. I sport climb up to 5.12a and boulder around V5. Just wondering if anyone had any advice on the best places to go and whether there was any cheap accommodation/ camping nearby?
And my boyfriend wants to see a rodeo so if you know of one let me know!!
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justroberto
Apr 22, 2008, 10:22 PM
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Texas is a big place - where are you going to be?
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charlie_k
Apr 23, 2008, 12:32 AM
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I'll be flying into Houston (got family there) then renting a car so can drive a fair distance. Only other plan is to go to some beaches after climbing.
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m4ximusd
Apr 23, 2008, 12:53 AM
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Most of us Houstonians hit up Reimer's Ranch on the weekends, its just outside of Austin, approx. 3 hour drive from Houston. Its limestone sport climbing with routes ranging from 5.6 up to a couple of 14s. Lots of fun easy climbs as well as several classic hard routes. If trad is more your thing then I'd suggest going to Enchanted Rock outside of Fredericksburg. It's a bit further drive from Houston, about 5 hours, but it has some nice friction and crack granite climbing. Excellent place to just camp and hike around as well. Which reminds me, you can't camp at Reimer's Ranch but Pace Bend Park is about 11 miles away and offers camping on Lake Travis. There are some nice water bouldering/soloing spots at Pace Bend as well (featured in Rock & Ice not too long ago.)
If you want some more info, directions, advice, stop by our gym, Texas Rock Gym, and any of the staff should be able to help you out.
Cheers!
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justroberto
Apr 25, 2008, 5:07 PM
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Unfortunately for you, Houston is quite a way from any real rock. If you do head to Reimers for sport, you'll pass close by McKinney Falls State Park in southeast Austin, which hosts some pretty sweet limestone bouldering and has a camping area.
Can't help you with the "local color" you seek other than to say you've missed the big Houston and Star of Texas (Austin) rodeos.
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ddriver
May 7, 2008, 3:03 PM
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Charlie, I recommend you get the hell out of Houston as quickly as possible. Go to Austin. There is decent sport climbing right in Austin on the Barton Creek Greenbelt and when you're done climbing you can eat and drink well. The camping scene may require a little exploring. In Texas there is precious little public camping, mostly state and county parks, and most of which are a few miles outside town. Reimer's Ranch outside of Austin is also a good climbing choice. You might want to look into camping around Lake Travis, e.g. Pace Bend Park, or at McKinney State Park.
I don't know what you expect out of the Texas beaches in November. The farther west you go from Houston the better they get in general. Galveston might be worth a day trip from Houston, or if you really want to you could go down to Port Aransas and north Padre Island. That is a better experience but your timing is bad. What I would recommend for water time is to hang out at Lake Travis near Austin rather than go to the beach. Pace Bend has nice coves or you can go around to Hippie Hollow where you can choose to get naked or just watch others do so, and legally. The limestone ledges are quite nice and sunsets are just as good as at the beach.
Keep an eye on this website: http://www.erockonline.com/forum/upload/index.php
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charlie_k
May 12, 2008, 5:26 AM
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When you say timing is bad, is that because of the weather? What'll it be like in November?
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bigfatrock
May 12, 2008, 6:09 AM
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Texas climbing in Nov. is great. Chances are you will have cold evenings-mornings and temps ranging anywhere from 45 degrees to 70 degrees+ during the day. Texas weather is crazy, so it could do anything. These past few winters have been pretty mild, so chances are you will have fairly good weather. I was climbing at erock this past February in a t-shirt.
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camhead
May 12, 2008, 6:50 AM
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In my opinion, the bouldering in Central Texas is much better than the sport climbing; and Roger's Park, north of Austin, is the best, largest amount and most diverse bouldering in the area. Pockets pockets pockets.
November will be a bit cold for water stuff inland, although I am not familiar with the coast.
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Aequitas
May 12, 2008, 10:30 AM
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In austin: Barton creek greenbelt and reimers ranch. hundreds of sport routes.
Fredericksburg: Enchanted rock. huge granite batholith with some multipitch sport and many long slab routes. also much trad
http://www.geocities.com/aequitas4/
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ddriver
May 12, 2008, 3:08 PM
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charlie_k wrote: When you say timing is bad, is that because of the weather? What'll it be like in November?
That comment was in reference to your desire to go to the beach. You're not likely to get in the water in Texas in November. It's not like Mexico, e.g.
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binali67
Jul 30, 2008, 10:23 PM
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houston has no spots really unless you like trees central texas has it all up and down I35 you've read all the other replys its the truth Austin has it. what you may be looking for is belton Tx,miller springs park 70 foot climb bolted,morgans point bluff another 70,80 foot bolted,temple lake park if you have a boat another 80 footer solo.then there is good old rogers park, bouldering. and clean I and some friends have been cleaning it up big time bring a crash pad and you can camp, Its a indian camp site from long ago i found five points in two days just walking then again i'm tarahumara 100% love to climb. yaateeh to texas
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charlie_k
Aug 26, 2008, 5:00 AM
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Thanks for your advice, I think we will pop into the gym for more advice when we arrive.
In the meantime do you know anywhere that would rent out bouldering pads? If not are there climbing gear shops near the gym or around that area where we could buy one (hopefully cheaply!)
I've got the Sean O grady Austin Rock guide, but I've been looking at the grades and comparing them to French grades, where at says 5.12 that covers 3 french grades, so if there's no letter after how do I know how hard it is or do I just try it and find out?!
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charlie_k
Sep 25, 2008, 1:09 AM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2008
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Is there somewhere either in Austin that rents bouldering pads?
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0x2102
Sep 25, 2008, 5:51 AM
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Oh come now, you don't _need_ pads. Do it the old-school, padless way.
Austin is kind of a dingy town with lots of trash heaps, you can probably scavenge material to make your own pad if needed.
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