Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Evolv big wall boot review
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


Partner pbcowboy77


May 8, 2008, 1:43 PM
Post #1 of 17 (3734 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 8, 2002
Posts: 574

Evolv big wall boot review
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

http://www.mountainproject.com/...oot_review/106158674


(This post was edited by pbcowboy77 on May 8, 2008, 1:44 PM)


basilisk


May 8, 2008, 7:51 PM
Post #2 of 17 (3697 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 1, 2005
Posts: 636

Re: [pbcowboy77] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Are you too cool to copy/paste the article? Or are you subtly suggesting that MP.com is better than RC.com?


You can french-kiss my stink star.


Partner pbcowboy77


May 8, 2008, 8:41 PM
Post #3 of 17 (3678 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 8, 2002
Posts: 574

Re: [basilisk] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

WOW...

Chill out buddy...

I was still editing it and didn't want to edit it on 3 websites


Here you go... Feel better?







Well everyone is asking about these things and I finally used them. I had them for my Solo of Skull Queen on WC in Yosemite. I didn't finish the route but I got enough of the way up to get a feel for them.

Hiking- Great, really comfy, tread is good too. It's a high top so you have a good ankle support. The tongue of the shoe is vented so your feet don't overheat. Everything you want in a hiking shoe.


Free Climbing- As far as a big wall boot goes they are great. I think they are better then the five ten approach shoes and they don't fall apart. There is about a two inch edge around the front and sides to the arch which is good for edging and there is enough rubber surface for good smears. As far as crack climbing goes they are a bit big in the toe so finger size cracks are out. Hand crack they're a bit tight, as a matter of fact my feet got stuck a couple of times so don't step too high in them. When you get into the bigger stuff they are great! SO for stepping out of the aiders to bust off a free move or two they rock.


Aiding- Oh My, these things are GREAT! I didn't even feel my aiders while I was standing in them. The Shoes are really stiff and have a good arch to keep your feet in the aiders. I've destroyed a few pair of other shoes while jugging and hauling, but these seem to be really sturdy. I didn't have any wear in the usual spots.


I don't have many bad things to say about the shoes but there are two small things. One is the yellow die painted my toes Yellow. The other problem is that there is a lot of rubber in the rand so they get a bit warm on sunny days.



All in all I think they just might be what we have been looking for in a big wall shoe. Great for the approach, really comfy to stand in all day and great for the free moves you have to bust out from time to time.




Where to buy
http://www.evolvesports.com/MAXIMUS.htm

Have a great time out there...

ZAc


(This post was edited by pbcowboy77 on May 8, 2008, 8:54 PM)


vegastradguy


May 8, 2008, 8:41 PM
Post #4 of 17 (3678 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: [basilisk] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

or, it could be that, like we do for them, mp.com is giving us a courtesy link.

more than one of my reviews is cross-linked over there.


quiteatingmysteak


May 8, 2008, 8:46 PM
Post #5 of 17 (3674 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 804

Re: [basilisk] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

basilisk wrote:
Are you too cool to copy/paste the article? Or are you subtly suggesting that MP.com is better than RC.com?


You can french-kiss my stink star.


I think you answered your own question.

Your post is eerily familiar to reading Youtube comments.


basilisk


May 9, 2008, 4:48 AM
Post #6 of 17 (3633 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 1, 2005
Posts: 636

Re: [quiteatingmysteak] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You guys are fun Wink


skinner


May 16, 2008, 4:08 PM
Post #7 of 17 (3499 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2004
Posts: 1747

Re: [pbcowboy77] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Three of my friends and I each recently bought a pair of Maximus. Although I haven't had a chance to run the full climbing gauntlet with them yet, so far so good. I know that the_climber took them bouldering to give them a initial test run, and was super impressed with how well they edged for a boot-style climbing shoe.. I haven't done any aid in them *yet*, but it was one of the primary reasons for going with the Maximus. They seem to work fine for the lower grade routes, but I'll let you know in a few days how far I'm comfortably able to free climb with them.


billcoe_


May 17, 2008, 9:09 AM
Post #8 of 17 (3460 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4668

Re: [pbcowboy77] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

pbcowboy77 wrote:
Here you go... Feel better?

Damn right!


BTW, thanks for the review there.



















Can't wait to see what Skinner says. Once of my problems with approach shoes, is that they use hard, non sticky rubber. Then when you really need the damn things for some class 4, you're pumping your arms needlessly silly. I have the Evolv trax rubber on 2 pairs of my climbing shoes, and think it's the best. Hopefully that the rubber they used. Sportiva approach shoes, while comfortable, well built and otherwise awesome, really lack in the sole dept.


Partner angry


May 17, 2008, 9:54 AM
Post #9 of 17 (3447 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 21, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [billcoe_] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have the Maximus as well.

Out of the box I took them to an easy crag and started soloing. I was quite comfortable in cracks up to about 5.10 ropeless but was a little unhappy with them on a 5.8 slab move.

I have yet to hang upside down off a hard OW with them but will be trying that next wed and thurs and will report back. On OW roofs I think they'll be quite nice.


andrewbanandrew


May 17, 2008, 2:04 PM
Post #10 of 17 (3418 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 441

Re: [basilisk] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

basilisk wrote:
Are you too cool to copy/paste the article? Or are you subtly suggesting that MP.com is better than RC.com?


You can french-kiss my stink star.

i'll toss your salad anytime baby


Arrogant_Bastard


May 20, 2008, 11:24 AM
Post #11 of 17 (3322 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 30, 2007
Posts: 19994

Re: [andrewbanandrew] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

andrewbanandrew wrote:
basilisk wrote:
Are you too cool to copy/paste the article? Or are you subtly suggesting that MP.com is better than RC.com?


You can french-kiss my stink star.

i'll toss your salad anytime baby

Hey now... take it to the Sport Climbing forum.


the_climber


May 21, 2008, 1:01 PM
Post #12 of 17 (3286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 8, 2003
Posts: 6142

Re: [billcoe_] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

billcoe_ wrote:
Can't wait to see what Skinner says.
I'll take the time to write up a bit of a review on them when I'm not a work. Skinner and I set up a new slab route a couple weeks ago, and I took them along to see how they'd do on that. They worked out great for that. Though at about 5.7 and up some slab move start becoming... well a little nervewrackign on the local limestone... at least on a couple routes. Bouldering to see how they preformed on smaller edges and scumming the rands for mantles was great. After doing a few fairly steep aproaches I can say they hike quite nicely too. I sized them the same as my street shoes. They seem to be made a little small so the proper fit seems to be about your street shoe size.

The rubber is the Trax rubber and is great high friction rubber, yet seems to wear quite well. Better than I expexcted in fact.

More later, back to work.


(This post was edited by the_climber on May 21, 2008, 1:04 PM)


anykineclimb


May 24, 2008, 7:22 AM
Post #13 of 17 (3169 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 3593

Re: [the_climber] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I understand the instep stiffness is good but hows the flex (if any) in the toes? flexy enough to walk well or more like a mountain boot?


the_climber


May 24, 2008, 9:39 AM
Post #14 of 17 (3147 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 8, 2003
Posts: 6142

Re: [anykineclimb] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The Maximus isn't stiff in the sole and toebox like how the old Pro-Accents were. They walk more like a light hiker than anything else, whereas the Pro-Accents hiked more like a light mountain boot. The only issue I've been able to find with them for hiking is that they seem like they would need more padding (perhaps a different insole) under the heel. I might notice that more than others as I'm more of a Highland Scot type of build than your typical chicken legged climber. So far this hasn't been much of an issue with up to an hour approach (the padding on the shoe not the build Smile) with the boots. I think it might be a "need to break them in" thing, but so far it's the only gripe I've found. However, the degree to which I've noticed it is fairly minor, just something I thought I'd mention.


skinner


May 24, 2008, 2:51 PM
Post #15 of 17 (3092 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2004
Posts: 1747

Re: [anykineclimb] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

anykineclimb wrote:
I understand the instep stiffness is good but hows the flex (if any) in the toes? flexy enough to walk well or more like a mountain boot?

There is toe flex, but if you're expecting these to flex like your standard climbing shoe, it's just not going to happen. We put up 3 routes on a set of slabs last week, and not surprisingly, I found myself edging my way up on small features, rather then trying to get the maximum rubber contact as I normally would on a slab. As far as walking/approach/descent, they absolutely worked fine and the extra padding around the ankles is a bonus when stumbling through the talus.

In general, there's just more sole under your foot, so less flex. I tried wearing them with socks, both thick & thin as well, and for me.. stuffing a thicker pair of socks into them not only felt better, but made a huge difference in how they free climbed.
Keeping in mind that I'm not one of those who stuffs his foot into a shoe 2-sizes too small in an effort to gain whatever marginal performance edge can be had while being in excruciating pain. Comfort throughout the day/night is a major factor in my choice of shoe.

My son has a pair of Pro Ascents that are on their second season now that included scrambling, bouldering, rock (face, slab, crack), aid, some alpine, and even 2 recent caving trips from which I've yet to get the mud out of everything. Despite their appearance, they have a lot of miles on them which is certainly a testament to their durability.

The Scarpa Pro Ascent's seem a little stiffer overall and the Evolve Maximux more comfortable initially, hopefully this won't translate into a less durable shoe.

I'm hoping to do some aid in them tomorrow, but so far I think they are going to work great for exactly the reasons I chose them in the first place. Aid, free climbing up to the 5.9'ish range, and a shoe that I'm able to spend the whole day in.


the_climber


May 26, 2008, 8:10 AM
Post #16 of 17 (2988 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 8, 2003
Posts: 6142

Re: [skinner] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

skinner wrote:
There is toe flex, but if you're expecting these to flex like your standard climbing shoe, it's just not going to happen. We put up 3 routes on a set of slabs last week, and not surprisingly, I found myself edging my way up on small features, rather then trying to get the maximum rubber contact as I normally would on a slab.

When Skinner and I put up another slab route a few weeks before "I" has no problem getting enough flex to avoid edging up a slab. So, I think the flex is entirely weight dependent. Now there is damn near 100 pounds difference between Skinner and I (maybe 80 lbs?). He's your typical chicken legged climber who sill has room in a squeeze chimney, I'm one of those Canadian bastards of Scottish decent, a stocky build, and squeeze chimneys are offwidths to me.


skinner


Jul 29, 2008, 5:11 PM
Post #17 of 17 (2558 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2004
Posts: 1747

Re: [the_climber] Evolv big wall boot review [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I don't mean to resurrect an old thread, but I thought I'd let everyone know, after using the Evolv Maximus for a couple months now, I'm convinced they are the answer.. (no matter what the question). I've put them to the test on every type of terrain imaginable and have basically left my standard rock shoes in the closet ever since. I'm able to climb anything up to a 5.9'ish grade quite comfortably, have stood in aiders for hours, and done some rather lengthy approaches with no complaints whatsoever. I have no problem highly recommending these shoes.

[Disclaimer: I am not employed by, nor am I in any way affiliated with Evolv Sports & Design Co.]
Wink


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$238.46 (10% off)
$5.85 (10% off)
$21.56 (10% off)
$8.55 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook