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WillRivendell


May 7, 2008, 7:46 PM
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need a few tips...
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I just started. been only once (yesterday) with some friends.

I'll be going again next week. Just a few problems I noticed... my forearms die very quickly. like quicker than I think they should..

like absolutley no other part of me is tired at all. I am used to 2 hours long 'tricking' sessions (flips, kicks, extreme martial arts) so I consider myself to be in good shape.

i was told it was because i wasnt using my legs at all. near the end i started using my legs a lot more and noticed an extremely fast climb but i would come to an outward extrusion and need some arm strength to overcome, since earlier i destroyed my arms I couldn't even lift myself at that point, essentially ruining the day for me.

I feeel more confident for next time btut I still want some tips on what techniques are things to keep in mind to avoid using all arms. It's hard to get out of the habit.

always seem to be flexing while hanging on. (feel like im gonna fall off) is there a way to properly relieve the wieght on the arms without falling off or letting go?

i know climbing is the best way to get better but seein is how i fully intend on going at least twice a week.. any "other" tips would be much appreciated. I'm not gonna jump the gun on anything but I am not one that likes to wait around either...

thanks!


stymingersfink


May 7, 2008, 8:04 PM
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Myxomatosis


May 7, 2008, 8:09 PM
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Don't train... just have fun...

There is pretty much no point in even thinking about training for the first year of climbing. You need to build a massive base of easy climbs...
just go and have fun Smile


uni_jim


May 7, 2008, 8:10 PM
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it was your first time. you just are not used to using the muscles that you did, but they will get stronger by just climbing more often. Your technique probobly sucks too, it takes time to learn how to grab different holds, and how to hold your weight with your legs.

you are allready into parkour, so try adding a bit of buildering when you go out (don't let the cops see).


WillRivendell


May 7, 2008, 8:28 PM
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well, is there like a list of do's and don't somewhere?

i read somewhere to put toes on as much as possible and hips centred over feet?

stuff like this. I was climbing this thing without thought. just powering through it but is there a list of things to do and not do? there has to be a "wrong" way to climb.. i want to avoid this... ! :)

like in tricking I started out winging my backflips until i had them high and smooth. only to find out although i get nice height i also gain 3 feet distance back because my technique was flawede. throwing my arms up and back instead of straight up. after a year of that i had it in stone. I still havent perfected it
i dont want to build any strong negative habits...


(This post was edited by WillRivendell on May 7, 2008, 8:28 PM)


jmvc


May 8, 2008, 7:04 AM
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About your forearms.. I'm not at all surprised to hear they were the first thing to fail, especially if you're quite fit overall.


8flood8


May 8, 2008, 8:13 AM
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keep as much weight on your legs as possible.

minimize extraneous movements

minimize the time you hold on contemplating before you grab the next hold. (climb efficiently)

keep your arms as long as possible. This conserves your forearms and biceps and back.

keep the angle of gravity and how your body can most efficiently defy it in your focus. (balance)

with a bit more climbing you will find that you have the ability to shake out and rest while climbing, you will find stances where it seems almost effortless to hold on and this is when you rest.

sometimes... you have to jump to the next hold. (dyno)

experiment with fully extending your reach in one burst and latching on at the last moment (deadpoint)

but also do some searching on the site, many people have put together beginners guides. also i think there is a FAQ on the left column of the home page.


stymingersfink


May 8, 2008, 9:52 AM
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stymingersfink wrote:
click it. everything anyone's said so far is covered in there^^

if you're serious about getting into climbing, and if starting off right is important to you, it will be money well spent.


pentapitch


May 10, 2008, 11:14 AM
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watch women climb!!! other than the pure pleasure involved, women are much more efficient and centered because they generally can't 'power' thru.

they use their hips and feet way better than most guys, especially beginner guys.

so, bring a chair, something cold to drink and find an attractive role model.

however, most women climbers are terrible at being cold and tired at cramped belay stations 500 feet up for hours at end.

(please insert feminist rants in the box below, if you don't get the irony here)


WillRivendell


May 10, 2008, 11:26 AM
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thanks all.. its good to get the confirmations on what i was "thinking". Makes me more confident in what I'm trying to do is right......

ya i agree with the women thing. My girlfriend who came as well for her first time, weighs 100lbs and can barely lift her beer. Managed to school me after 4 climbs when my arms were numb, she could still do the whole wall...

lookin forward to weds!


iwasasportweenie


May 10, 2008, 11:41 AM
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It's good that you're asking for advice on how not to climb as there are indeed many "wrong" ways to climb. And it's also true that there's not much point in trying to "train" for quite a while when you're getting started.

Your forearms should be the first thing to get tired. The best things you can do are improve your technique and climb a lot; your forearms will acclimate pretty quickly. As for technique, you can read every book there is, but by far the best way to improve is to watch other climbers, climb with more skilled/experienced climbers (and be willing to listen!), and try different things yourself. When you complete a climb that feels tough for you, do it again and try to find easier ways to do the moves. Then do it again.

As long as you're challenging yourself, your forearms and fingers will almost always be the first thing to give up on you. There are exceptions (slabs, horizontal roof climbs), but whether you're climbing 5.6 or 5.13, you're going to find that your forearms and fingers are usually the limiting factor.


brutusofwyde


May 11, 2008, 1:08 PM
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There are three concepts to master at your stage

1. Use your legs and feet.

2. Use your legs and feet.

3. Use your legs and feet.

In spite of the arm throw for the back flip, most of the power there is coming from your legs.

If you don't believe me, try throwing a back flip starting from a handstand position.

Much of the technique used in advanced climbing involves getting as much weigh onto the leg muscles as possible: toe-in, twist-locks, turnout, even flagging involve use of the feet and legs to support the body and/or extend the reach of the arms. Even climbing roofs in a bouldering cave, counter-intuitive as it may seem, utilizes extensive footwork to successfully complete a problem.

Pay attention to your footwork. Many beginners spend about 90% of their time looking at handholds.

Just for grins, try spending 70% of your attention on your foot placements.

Hope this helps.

Brutus


rtwilli4


May 23, 2008, 4:32 PM
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In reply to:
watch women climb!!! other than the pure pleasure involved, women are much more efficient and centered because they generally can't 'power' thru.

they use their hips and feet way better than most guys, especially beginner guys.

HIT THE NAIL ON THE HEAD!

Seriously, watch a woman climb, watch how she uses her hips and every muscle in her body to climb.

In reply to:
minimize the time you hold on contemplating before you grab the next hold. (climb efficiently)

keep your arms as long as possible. This conserves your forearms and biceps and back.

keep the angle of gravity and how your body can most efficiently defy it in your focus. (balance)

with a bit more climbing you will find that you have the ability to shake out and rest while climbing, you will find stances where it seems almost effortless to hold on and this is when you rest.

Couldn't really say it any better myself but I'll add a bit:

I took first timers climbing every day for months and these are some of the things I told them;

- of course your forearms hurt, you have never used those muscles before

- sure your in great shape, but you have never used those muscles before

- keep as much weight on your feet s possible

- be creative with your legs and feet and watch others

- keep your center of gravity close to the wall

- try and use ALL your muscles (abs, back muscles) evenly to keep you on the wall instead of just your arms

- learn to relax your grip and use friction instead of force



I was into martial artists as well (15 years). Just like martial arts, technique and balance are often more important than strength. If you throw a punch the wrong way, then instead of hurting the guy your just going to piss him off. If you climb with bad technique, your just going to pumped out before you can climb enough to improve.

Learning tech. is hard. It's one thing for me to tell you, but the best way to learn is watch and imitate other climbers. I often tell people that if they try to look cool like th guys in the magazines than they will learn important moves and techniques. Sounds dumb, but just as in martial arts, its easier to watch than to read about.

If you're a martial artist than the balance and technique will come... just climb as much as you can, build up your forearm and finger strength, and HAVE FUN!


(This post was edited by rtwilli4 on May 23, 2008, 4:35 PM)


WillRivendell


May 26, 2008, 7:59 AM
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hey guys,

thanks for all the replies....

i've been out three times now, and hopefully twice more this week.
the second time out was MUCH and I mean MUCH better.
keeping all of the advice from here and my friend gave me in the back
of my head, was the key. Watching some girls was distracting and great!
Good advice there.... ha.. really tho i see how it helps!

Every time I was about to lift my whole body with an arm I stopped
and looked at my feet, jumped 'em up another 2 or three grabs and simply
stood up. WOW.. so much easier....i still rely too much on my grip. I need
to learn to hold it loose, but I'm keeping my arms fully extended almost most
the time now. Putting as much weight on my legs as possible. This is GREAT!
Also I find i keep loosing focus on it but when I catch it it helps, is keeping
hips and body close to the wall (unless hanging for rest) this relieves a lot
of weight on legs and arms and grip. But like I said 70% of the time I 'forget'
to do it. Anyways, it's great fun! Thanks all for the help.


coastal_climber


May 26, 2008, 2:41 PM
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WillRivendell wrote:
Watching some girls was distracting and great!

That is one of the few reasons to go to the gym.

>Cam


oracclimber


Jul 5, 2008, 6:30 PM
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In reply to:
there has to be a "wrong" way to climb.. i want to avoid this... ! :)

this is no wrong way to climb. i am 5'1 maybe and being short i know there is no wrong way to climb. as long as you get up the wall without falling you should be fine.


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