Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
WFLT Setup
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


hibby11


May 11, 2008, 8:22 PM
Post #1 of 5 (1101 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 262

WFLT Setup
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So i'm getting some planning going for an upcoming trip to Yos. We're going to be climbing the WFLT and i'm questioning if two 60's will do. One lead, one haul and then for the first half of the pitch I can just use the haul as a tag line. I'm then planning on having our 3rd jug the haul line while the 2nd cleans.

Think it'll work?


dingus


May 11, 2008, 8:40 PM
Post #2 of 5 (1096 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17392

Re: [hibby11] WFLT Setup [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hibby11 wrote:
So i'm getting some planning going for an upcoming trip to Yos. We're going to be climbing the WFLT and i'm questioning if two 60's will do. One lead, one haul and then for the first half of the pitch I can just use the haul as a tag line. I'm then planning on having our 3rd jug the haul line while the 2nd cleans.

Think it'll work?

IMO should be fine. Don't really need a tag line for that route imo. Don't ever let go of the tail end of the 2nd rope though!

Cool route, quite steep.

DMT


moof


May 12, 2008, 9:25 AM
Post #3 of 5 (1048 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400

Re: [hibby11] WFLT Setup [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Topped out on that route twice. Two 60m's is plenty. Tagline is overkill. Other than the first bolt ladder pitch (pitch 1 linked to 2) I just carried the whole rack. For pitch 1+2 carry a set of hooks, all your draws, and singles on the aliens (up to red), set of nuts if you want overkill. Since the route only takes a couple larger pieces it's not that big of a deal to just carry everything.


hibby11


May 12, 2008, 11:03 AM
Post #4 of 5 (1024 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 262

Re: [moof] WFLT Setup [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Awesome! I was hoping it wouldn't be too big of a pain. Now all I need to do is cross my fingers for no line and a fun trek up to the base.

Thanks guys


moof


May 12, 2008, 11:12 AM
Post #5 of 5 (1009 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400

Re: [hibby11] WFLT Setup [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Plan on a full half day to get your crap to the base. It is one of the rougher approaches for a trade route. Take your time, rest often, and keep track of the cairn's, it's very easy to get off route. Doing 2 carries makes a lot of sense, and budget an extra day for waiting in line, it happens, especially if you start on a weekend. Because the approach is fairly brutal, it's not a bad idea to plan on bivying the first night to rest rather than starting right up.

Last time I was up there the fixed line across the 4th class catwalk was in OK shape. In one location there used to be a large stopper, but I only found a knot poorly wedged in the crack. A #1 camalot made me feel better, and I cleaned it once I didn't have to cross with a bunch of junk on my back.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook