Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
Chalk on the North Shore
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


tundraline


May 13, 2008, 11:00 AM
Post #1 of 13 (2775 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 13, 2008
Posts: 8

Chalk on the North Shore  (North_America: United_States: Minnesota: North_East: Palisade_Head)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

"The entire North Shore and Palisade Head are NO CHALK areas!"

Says who? The Omniscient Grand Chalk Vizier and Poo-Bah of Duluth and Beaver Bay? Don't forget, climbing shoes, perlon ropes and Camalots are also banned by order of the Grand Vizier. No climbing before 10 a.m. either, just because.


irregularpanda


May 13, 2008, 11:07 AM
Post #2 of 13 (2766 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 1364

Re: [tundraline] Chalk on the North Shore [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

tundraline wrote:
"The entire North Shore and Palisade Head are NO CHALK areas!"

Says who? The Omniscient Grand Chalk Vizier and Poo-Bah of Duluth and Beaver Bay? Don't forget, climbing shoes, perlon ropes and Camalots are also banned by order of the Grand Vizier. No climbing before 10 a.m. either, just because.

It sounds like you have two options:

Egg somebody's house.

Or move out of the midwest.

OOOOHH OOOHHHH I almost forgot the third option.
Get invited to dinner at the grand pooh bahs house, and then sew shrimp into his curtains. By the time he figures out where the smell is coming from, it'll be way too late to do anything about it. hehehe.


chadnsc


May 13, 2008, 11:42 AM
Post #3 of 13 (2738 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449

Re: [tundraline] Chalk on the North Shore [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

tundraline wrote:
"The entire North Shore and Palisade Head are NO CHALK areas!"

Says who? The Omniscient Grand Chalk Vizier and Poo-Bah of Duluth and Beaver Bay? Don't forget, climbing shoes, perlon ropes and Camalots are also banned by order of the Grand Vizier. No climbing before 10 a.m. either, just because.

Ah come now, you can troll better than that.

This has been discussed before at length. Do a search of this site or read a bit of the guidebook for climbing in Minnesota or Wisconsin. Both of these sources will touch on the ethical, access, and land ownership issues associated with why using chalk on the North Shore is discouraged.


tundraline


May 13, 2008, 11:50 AM
Post #4 of 13 (2728 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 13, 2008
Posts: 8

Re: [chadnsc] Chalk on the North Shore [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Lest anyone forget, the Grand Vizier's edict now has international jurisdictional effect in Ontario, and therefore extends up the North Shore to Thunder Bay, into the BWCA and beyond into the Quetico. The "no chalk" edict is a Rule, not a simple "discouragement." Just because the park rangers do not know about the Rule, do not enforce the Rule, and know not where the Gand Vizier lives, does not mean that the Rule is not in effect.


chadnsc


May 13, 2008, 12:16 PM
Post #5 of 13 (2703 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449

Re: [tundraline] Chalk on the North Shore [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 
While I don't know much about climbing in Canada 'eh or the BWCA Iím pretty sure no rules, laws, or edicts have been passed regarding using chalk there or anywhere on the North Shore.

With the exception of Mystical Mountain where private land owners don't allow chalk the use of chalk is discouraged on the North Shore. That is unless the 'Grand Vizier' has come out of retirement.

Again, do a search or better yet ask the question at http://minnesotaclimbing.com where Glenn Burns is the moderator. Glen is also the president of the Minnesota Climbers Association and I'm shure he will be able answer your questions much better than I. Hell, Glenn may even be able to put you in touch with the ĎGrand Vizierí so you can voice your complaints in person. If he offers Iíd take Glenn up on this offer as the old Vizier doesnít use the internet much.


chossmonkey


May 13, 2008, 12:28 PM
Post #6 of 13 (2691 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414

Re: [tundraline] Chalk on the North Shore [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

tundraline wrote:
"The entire North Shore and Palisade Head are NO CHALK areas!"

Says who? The Omniscient Grand Chalk Vizier and Poo-Bah of Duluth and Beaver Bay? Don't forget, climbing shoes, perlon ropes and Camalots are also banned by order of the Grand Vizier. No climbing before 10 a.m. either, just because.

Who put fire ants in your undies?


tundraline


May 13, 2008, 12:31 PM
Post #7 of 13 (2685 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 13, 2008
Posts: 8

Re: [chadnsc] Chalk on the North Shore [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks for the most helpful clarification and information, chadnsc. You are a gentleman and a scholar.


chadnsc


May 13, 2008, 12:35 PM
Post #8 of 13 (2677 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449

Re: [tundraline] Chalk on the North Shore [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

No problem. I'm glad I could be of some help!


Fenst


May 13, 2008, 6:13 PM
Post #9 of 13 (2629 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2007
Posts: 79

Re: [chadnsc] Chalk on the North Shore [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've heard that you can't use chalk on the nortshore because of sea kayakers. They don't want to see chalk on the cliffs they visit.


chadnsc


May 14, 2008, 5:39 AM
Post #10 of 13 (2593 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449

Re: [Fenst] Chalk on the North Shore [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 As I said before their are many reasons why the use of chalk is discouraged. No single user group be it climbers, hikers, boaters, or kayakers do not hold absolute influence over the 'no chalk ethic'.

Take the advice given to the OP and use the resources I linked so you can fully understand the reasons behind this local ethic


dynosore


May 14, 2008, 5:53 AM
Post #11 of 13 (2580 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1761

Re: [chadnsc] Chalk on the North Shore [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What is it about the Lake Superior region that makes climbers bicker so much? Same BS on the east end of the lake. Relative to other climbing areas these are practically deserted, yet people find things to gripe about and reasons to hate each other on an ongoing basis.

The Lake is cursed I tell you, cursed!

....or maybe we're all just mad because we live in the Midwest.......


chadnsc


May 14, 2008, 6:43 AM
Post #12 of 13 (2558 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449

Re: [dynosore] Chalk on the North Shore [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Bickering?

Oh, I think you've mistaken someone not from this area being perplexed by a local ethic. It's an honest misunderstanding confusion and bickering especially on the internet. Besides the locals on the North Shore don't bicker about silly thinks like chalk, we're way to busy complaining about the weather and run out offwidths.

Now if you'll excuse me the 'Grand Viser' wants me to get back to work.


tundraline


May 14, 2008, 7:40 AM
Post #13 of 13 (2535 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 13, 2008
Posts: 8

Re: [chadnsc] Chalk on the North Shore [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dynosore: The fault is mine if there is any bickering to be detected in the thread. As you will see by referring to chadnsc's admirably restrained and yet informative posts above, he provides a notable example of excellent and unusually adept internet etiquette and behavior, which I commend. Although I do not live in Minnesota, I grew up there and used to climb at Palisade Head in the 1970s (but never used chalk anyway). I recently heard about the no-chalk rule on the North Shore and it struck me as very odd and over-reaching (and still does). Nevertheless, if a local community of climbers arrives at a generally agreed upon rule like "no chalk" and they wish to follow it, that of course is their choice. I'm not so sure, however, that if I were on vacation on my way to Thunder Bay as an "outsider" passing by Palisade Head and decided to stop there to lead climb (not top rope) a route that I would make the decision not to use chalk under any and all circumstances. If the rock were cooperative and I didn't need it, I wouldn't use it. On the other hand, if things got slimy I don't think I would lose any sleep over having used it. I guess what I am saying is I would respect the local rules of ethics on the North Shore regarding chalk so long as they made some sort of sense under the circumstances at hand. IMHO, there would appear to be more than a few situations where an absolute rule proscribing the use of chalk under any and all circumstances throughout the length and breadth of the North Shore (excepting Mystical Mountain) does not make sense. But this is all academic anyway, as I do not climb at Palisade Head any longer, and am unlikely to do so again (although I did get to Nightfall on the Devil Track River this past winter, and hope to get to Orient Bay next winter). I hope the rocks at Palisade Head are still doing well. It is a beautiful place and merits all the protection it can get from local climbers.


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$11.66 (10% off)
$141.75 (10% off)
$17.95 (10% off)
$17.95 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook