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limeydave
Dec 20, 2007, 10:55 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2006
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I can't resist another shoe thread, I tried, but I couldn't do it.
Pontas, there are only two things wrong with them IMO
1) They are way better than I am, so I can never blame my shoes.
2) They suck to heel hook - but it's probably down to the shape of my feet.
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climbingaggie03
Dec 24, 2007, 4:39 PM
Post #27 of 51
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1173
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5.10 ascents or Boreal zens and spiders
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shockabuku
Dec 24, 2007, 4:56 PM
Post #28 of 51
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
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Not great for heel hooking or smearing but otherwise bomber.
(This post was edited by shockabuku on Dec 24, 2007, 4:56 PM)
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climbing boots.jpg
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vegastradguy
Dec 24, 2007, 5:04 PM
Post #29 of 51
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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depends on whether i'm testing shoes or not....
personally, though, i dont think shoes make any difference at all for the vast majority of climbers provided they fit your foot correctly.
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dlintz
Dec 24, 2007, 5:06 PM
Post #30 of 51
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Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
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Evolve Predators for overhanging stuff and heel hooking.
Five Ten Newtons for everything else.
d.
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overlord
Dec 25, 2007, 10:22 AM
Post #31 of 51
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
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i have a pair of old boreal stingers for indoor climbing.
for overhanging stuff i use evolve talons. once you get past 15deg or so they really shine.
but i mostly use 5.10 anasazi laceups.
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miavzero
Feb 3, 2008, 12:50 AM
Post #32 of 51
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Registered: Oct 8, 2005
Posts: 624
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Comfy Madrock Flashes for splitter cracks up to hands.
Sportiva Katanas for high performance face climbing.
Madrock Hookers for a comfortable gym and casual bouldering shoe.
Sportiva Kaukulators (RIP) for anything wide.
Madrock Super Locos for trick bouldering and steep stuff.
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tigerlilly
Feb 3, 2008, 2:35 AM
Post #33 of 51
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 564
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raymondjeffrey wrote: Demortos. Best shoe ever made for folks with Mortons Toe.
I haven't been able to find a pair of these to try on. Would you describe them as narrow, wide or average? Photos make them look a little wide across the ball of the foot, but it's hard to tell.
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Hennessey
Feb 3, 2008, 2:58 AM
Post #34 of 51
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Registered: Dec 3, 2007
Posts: 595
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Evolv all the way.
Defy was a great shoe but like the Evo even better
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superbum
Feb 3, 2008, 3:11 AM
Post #35 of 51
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Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 822
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La Sportiva men's Katanas. I have three diff. sizes...40.5 for bouldering, 41 for cragging, 42 for all day, or alpine.
Ridges and easy pitches I use La Sportiva Exum Ridges.
For boots, all I've used are the La Sportiva Trango S Evo GTX.
I do like Acopa rubber though!
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redsox5945
Feb 3, 2008, 4:28 AM
Post #36 of 51
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Registered: Sep 25, 2007
Posts: 76
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Mad Rock Flashes. They're cheap and I'm not good enough yet to warrant anything more.
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vegastradguy
Feb 3, 2008, 4:40 AM
Post #37 of 51
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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tigerlilly wrote: raymondjeffrey wrote: Demortos. Best shoe ever made for folks with Mortons Toe. I haven't been able to find a pair of these to try on. Would you describe them as narrow, wide or average? Photos make them look a little wide across the ball of the foot, but it's hard to tell.
mine are a little wider than my mythos in the ball of the foot.
i've found that just about everyone who tries on the demorto really likes it- probably because its designed as a performance shoe with a symmetrical toe box- and while morton's toe folks really like this, its also popular with other folks who dont like their toes scrunched up when they want some power.
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kriso9tails
Feb 3, 2008, 5:39 AM
Post #38 of 51
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Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772
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curt wrote: lithiummetalman wrote: Scarpas, no scarpa lovers out there? Scarpas are my favorite--especially after you put 5.10 rubber on them. Curt
A little stealth C4 rubber on these and you're set:
I prefer 5.10s but I've had too many pairs with manufacturing defects (combination of bad luck and climbing shoe comapanies, as a generality, having shitty manufacturing standards) so I switched to La Sportiva Katanas. I bought a pair of cheap Mad Rocks as well so i wouldn't trash my Katanas on plastic for no reason. when I went to replace my Katanas with a new pair, I suddenly couldn't find a pair that fit properly, so I reluctantly switched to Vipers because it was all that fit well enough that wasn't a lace-up... but i do have a problem with the Vipers --> Cobras --> Venoms --> Vipers thing that LaSportiva did... make up your bloody minds.
That's the much abridged version of my climbing shoe history, but I don't want to give away the whole thing or else no one will by my thrilling auto-biography titled "My Life in Climbing Shoes" when it comes out this spring.
Shoe threads are the most wonderful thing on the face of the planet.
(This post was edited by kriso9tails on Feb 3, 2008, 5:41 AM)
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tigerlilly
Feb 4, 2008, 1:45 AM
Post #39 of 51
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
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vegastradguy wrote: tigerlilly wrote: raymondjeffrey wrote: Demortos. Best shoe ever made for folks with Mortons Toe. I haven't been able to find a pair of these to try on. Would you describe them as narrow, wide or average? Photos make them look a little wide across the ball of the foot, but it's hard to tell. mine are a little wider than my mythos in the ball of the foot.
Bummer. Mythos are almost too wide for me feet, so wider wouldn't be good. Thanks for saving me the time of further searching for a pair.
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Hennessey
Feb 4, 2008, 1:57 AM
Post #40 of 51
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Registered: Dec 3, 2007
Posts: 595
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I don't know for sure, but I think those sparkling gold high heels are ten times better than my evolv's.
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unrooted
Feb 4, 2008, 2:31 AM
Post #41 of 51
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Registered: Mar 13, 2003
Posts: 840
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Depends on what I'm climbing:
Trad: Mythos, or mocasyms
Vert Sport: Red Chilli Spirit Velcro (very similar to anasazi Velcro's but much cheaper and don't stink)
Steep sport: Testarossas
Bouldering: Venoms
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flint
Feb 4, 2008, 3:46 AM
Post #42 of 51
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Registered: Jun 21, 2007
Posts: 543
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curt wrote: lithiummetalman wrote: Scarpas, no scarpa lovers out there? Scarpas are my favorite--especially after you put 5.10 rubber on them. Curt
bingo
j-
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lostparrot
Feb 4, 2008, 1:41 PM
Post #43 of 51
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Registered: Jan 28, 2007
Posts: 149
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Evolv Bandits for general purpose
Mad Rock Locos for hard stuff and bouldering. LOVE the Locos
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JustinChamberlin
Feb 4, 2008, 3:44 PM
Post #44 of 51
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Registered: Dec 13, 2007
Posts: 6
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La Sportiva Venom.
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IBarrett
May 14, 2008, 6:40 AM
Post #45 of 51
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Registered: Apr 11, 2008
Posts: 40
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Mad Rock Onsight!  Cute little blue shoes
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bldr
May 14, 2008, 7:26 AM
Post #46 of 51
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Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 35
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Where is all the love for Boreal (the shoes not the rubber).
I spend a lot of time in my ninjas, prior to that zens.
I am also a huge fan of the 5.10 Newton.
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henrikh
May 14, 2008, 10:15 AM
Post #47 of 51
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Registered: Jan 15, 2008
Posts: 27
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five ten galileo´s
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cchas
May 14, 2008, 2:38 PM
Post #48 of 51
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Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344
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a pair of black kenneth coles, really comfortable, no really, but a bit pricey,
oh, you mean for climbing- depends
trad: Moccysyms
sport: Venoms or a pair of Evolves
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s_peter
May 14, 2008, 7:56 PM
Post #49 of 51
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Registered: Aug 25, 2006
Posts: 23
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bldr wrote: Where is all the love for Boreal (the shoes not the rubber).
Here ya go: I wear Zens, Matrix and Stingers. All resoled except for the Zens (got decent Quattro Rubber on them).
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b.debaser
May 16, 2008, 3:51 AM
Post #50 of 51
(3788 views)
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Registered: Feb 11, 2008
Posts: 10
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Sperry Top Siders
and Katanas
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