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mhix13
May 14, 2008, 3:02 PM
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Thanks for all the responses to the stopper question. Here's another for you. When getting cams, hexes, tricams, stoppers, etc. some come with a short sling/dyneema loop and some come with just a wire.
1) If it's just a wire loop would it be acceptable to girth hitch a sling to extend it to save a carabiner (ie to save weight by needing fewer carabiners)?
2) If the piece is pre-slung and you still want to extend it, would it be ill-advised to girth a sling to the short sling already there in order to save a carabiner like above?
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dutyje
May 14, 2008, 3:04 PM
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1. No
2. Yes
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coastal_climber
May 14, 2008, 3:07 PM
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dutyje wrote: 1. No 2. Yes
I'll second this.
>Cam
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shrug7
May 14, 2008, 3:25 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: dutyje wrote: 1. No 2. Yes I'll second this. >Cam
Third...
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ggdillon
May 14, 2008, 3:38 PM
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And an additional comment: If you need to extend the wired stopper because any 'biner attached to it would be loaded over edge, an acceptable solution might be to 'girth hitch' (it actually ends up looking like a square knot) another wired stopper's wire to the first stopper and then clip that with a 'biner (hard to explain, but get two stoppers and it's easy to see how it works).
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Gmburns2000
May 14, 2008, 3:40 PM
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shrug7 wrote: coastal_climber wrote: dutyje wrote: 1. No 2. Yes I'll second this. >Cam Third...
In the words of the famous Onion interview of James Kilts...FIFTH
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mhix13
May 14, 2008, 4:31 PM
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I'm guessing not to do it with the wire in case it's (the wire itself) frayed and the metal burs can compromise the sling?
Why not girth hitch it with another sling?
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majid_sabet
May 14, 2008, 4:33 PM
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mhix13 wrote: I'm guessing not to do it with the wire in case it's (the wire itself) frayed and the metal burs can compromise the sling? Why not girth hitch it with another sling?
GH slings to sling is a bad idea.
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jermanimal
May 14, 2008, 4:38 PM
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Sling to sling is not good, here is some testing...
Look for...November 9, 2006 – Connecting Two Slings Together
http://www.bdel.com/...p_archive.php#030907
It is about half way down.
It was mentioned above, it you are in a pinch, a weak sling to sling connection is better then no pro.
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coastal_climber
May 14, 2008, 4:38 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: mhix13 wrote: I'm guessing not to do it with the wire in case it's (the wire itself) frayed and the metal burs can compromise the sling? Why not girth hitch it with another sling? GH slings to sling is a bad idea.
Wasn't there a case of a sling being cut because it was girth hitched to another? I think the info was on this site.
>Cam
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majid_sabet
May 14, 2008, 4:50 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: majid_sabet wrote: mhix13 wrote: I'm guessing not to do it with the wire in case it's (the wire itself) frayed and the metal burs can compromise the sling? Why not girth hitch it with another sling? GH slings to sling is a bad idea. Wasn't there a case of a sling being cut because it was girth hitched to another? I think the info was on this site. >Cam
I am telling you, pull test has shown that GHing is bad idea if GH is been loaded in a fall.
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Gmburns2000
May 14, 2008, 4:54 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: coastal_climber wrote: majid_sabet wrote: mhix13 wrote: I'm guessing not to do it with the wire in case it's (the wire itself) frayed and the metal burs can compromise the sling? Why not girth hitch it with another sling? GH slings to sling is a bad idea. Wasn't there a case of a sling being cut because it was girth hitched to another? I think the info was on this site. >Cam I am telling you, pull test has shown that GHing is bad idea if GH is been loaded in a fall.
Alright Majid, now that there is a precedent, it is time for you to take a fall with two slings GH'd to each other to show us why it is a bad idea.
PS - I'm kidding.
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mhix13
May 14, 2008, 5:17 PM
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Wow great info on that link! Thanks man!
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therat
May 14, 2008, 5:26 PM
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mhix13 wrote: Wow great info on that link! Thanks man!
Second.
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esoteric1
May 14, 2008, 5:38 PM
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heres an idea, go buy freedom of the hills,( its a pretty comprehensive book) or hire a guide for a few days...
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majid_sabet
May 14, 2008, 5:51 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: majid_sabet wrote: mhix13 wrote: I'm guessing not to do it with the wire in case it's (the wire itself) frayed and the metal burs can compromise the sling? Why not girth hitch it with another sling? GH slings to sling is a bad idea. Wasn't there a case of a sling being cut because it was girth hitched to another? I think the info was on this site. >Cam
yes
I think I even have the photos from a dude who GH two trad anchors. One leg of the master point failed due to GHing. I'll see if I could find that photo and post it.
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jestering
May 14, 2008, 6:32 PM
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mhix13 wrote: when there's a community on here with lots of experience why not ask all of you guys questions?
Stick around for a while, and you'll see why not.
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coastal_climber
May 14, 2008, 8:06 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: coastal_climber wrote: majid_sabet wrote: mhix13 wrote: I'm guessing not to do it with the wire in case it's (the wire itself) frayed and the metal burs can compromise the sling? Why not girth hitch it with another sling? GH slings to sling is a bad idea. Wasn't there a case of a sling being cut because it was girth hitched to another? I think the info was on this site. >Cam yes I think I even have the photos from a dude who GH two trad anchors. One leg of the master point failed due to GHing. I'll see if I could find that photo and post it.
Please be sure to illustrate.
>Cam
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tolman_paul
May 15, 2008, 12:43 AM
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And to answer your questions as how to properly deal with those issues:
If there is no sling on the cam, either send it in to someone to have one sewn on, loop it with a sewn sling (not girth hitched, doubled up) or clip the sling with a biner.
Use a runner with biners on both ends to extend a piece.
While you have to carry the extra weight of the biners, the extra weight isn't a bad thing at the placement, and will often help keep the placement in place vs being pulled out from rope drag.
Girth hitches dramatically decrease the strength of webbing, and are very difficult if not impossible to remove when loaded. The only climbing use I can think of for a girth hitch is slinging a knob or flake to keep the runner from being pulled off.
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stymingersfink
May 15, 2008, 12:59 AM
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tolman_paul wrote: The only climbing use I can think of for a girth hitch is slinging a knob or flake to keep the runner from being pulled off.
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knudenoggin
May 25, 2008, 10:25 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: coastal_climber wrote: majid_sabet wrote: mhix13 wrote: Why not girth hitch it with another sling? GH slings to sling is a bad idea. Wasn't there a case of a sling being cut because it was girth hitched to another? I think the info was on this site. Cam yes I think I even have the photos from a dude who GH two trad anchors. One leg of the master point failed due to GHing. I'll see if I could find that photo and post it.
Some might not have read the factual rebuttals to the old, suspended-reason
ranting over imagined girth-hitching-skinny-slings dangers,
but I know you have, MS, and you were called down on this by both me
and one GH'd-slings tester, Maldaly.
The URLink to the Mammut investigative report of the now infamous John
Sherman sling-cut case has been posted several times.
The BDEL testing should be reassuring, too, although, unfortunately,
in only one, accidental case, did the usual GH geometry obtain.
It should also be possible to get (much?) better results of tying a sling to
wire, but obviously not in the usual method(s). Perhaps that's something
Aric will check out.
*kN*
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sky7high
Jun 1, 2008, 6:02 AM
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Ever read the little instruction manual that comes with your stoppers? (I'm asuming BD, since you call them stoppers)
Thought so.
I suggest you go read it online at http://www.bdel.com even if they're not BD nuts
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dta95b7r
Jun 1, 2008, 12:05 PM
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I would just like to add that if you are going to girth hitch two slings together just make sure you don't mix spectra and dyneema slings.
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