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phlyfisher
Oct 31, 2002, 10:36 AM
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
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My friend and I will be in Vegas Nov 16-18ish and I would like to try the Prince. I have found some beta but I am slighty concerned with the last pitch. The rest of the pitches are well within our abilities. We are both solid 10-11 sport climbers and 9 trad leaders. The last pitch sounds really slabby and my high 10 slab technique is marginal at least on granite. If anyone could offer some beta I would appreicate it.
chris
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mikedano
Oct 31, 2002, 10:54 AM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2001
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I do have some beta but not about the climb itself. I did Crimson Crystalis, and found out some things about rapelling the route and the difficulties therein.
First, rappelling the route blows. Second, DON'T do it in the dark. Very scary. And I found that when you're pulling the rope, do it very gently so it doesn't get snagged on anything. Finally, figure out a good method for rope management, since all the belays (on CC as well as POD) are hanging. I used a Metolius rope hook and was very glad I did. I'm betting you already know a bunch of this, but with free advice you get what you pay for!
Good luck and have fun.
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pbjosh
Oct 31, 2002, 11:06 AM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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Grades at Red Rocks are soft. Bolts are everywhere. You'll be fine. 2x60 and simul-rapping is the way to go, otherwise you'll be rappelling all day/night.
Prince of Darkness is a clusterf--- most of the time. Two days ago there were three parties on it. One party spent 40 minutes FOLLOWING a 5.10 pitch. The leader of the party below was stick clipping in the middle of the 10b pitch. F*cking wanks. We had an excellent time on Sour Mash, being the only party on the route. Carry gear in and be prepared to do a different route (Fiddler on the Roof, Dream of Wild Turkeys, Sour Mash, Refried Brains, Epinephrine (long), etc).
I hear there's currently a school bus nicely balanced between front and rear bumper at one of the dips on the road in, so it may be hard to access
josh
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just_me
Oct 31, 2002, 11:15 AM
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Registered: May 12, 2002
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I have hiked into that area before, but did not have enough time to get in a long climb. Just be warned that the approaches usually take a lot longer than the guide book indicates. Be sure to start early, and bring a headlamp.
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wigglestick
Oct 31, 2002, 11:58 AM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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I attempted Prince of Darkness last February. My partner and I bailed at the top of the 3rd pitch due to a hailstrom that was pummelling us. The approach isn't too bad as long as you know where you are going. Follow the dried up creek until you get blocked by some huge boulders then go up from there to the base of the route. It took us about an hour and we went the wrong way. The first pitch is easy and a set of nuts protects it well. The second and 3rd pitches weren't very hard, like somebody said the grades at Red Rocks are kind of soft. But the pitches are long and sustained. Bring lots of quickdraws. I didn't get to do the crux pitch so I can't comment on that but I hear it isn't to bad. More of a boulder problem right off the belay than anything else. The raps are straight forward. Bring 2 60 meter ropes and just rap the route. A comfy harness or a belay seat would be nice too since all the belays are hanging belays. When I did it we were the only party on the route, I guess everybody else knew about the hailstorm that was moving in. Go figure.
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phlyfisher
Oct 31, 2002, 12:15 PM
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
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Thanx for the beta I appreciate it. Sounds like we'll do just fine.
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xavier
Oct 31, 2002, 2:00 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
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The crux on the last pitch of POD is a few hard moves in a small crack right off the belay. Nothing to worry about.. As far as there being crowds, you could encounter a few parties but chances are there won't be as many as it's beginning to get cold (for us locals) on the BVW. I'd recommend "Unimpeachable Groping" 5.10 on the east face of Rainbow Peak (it's in the new swain guide) More fun than POD and also more varied.
Have fun..
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