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difdclimber


May 17, 2008, 4:59 PM
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Good Weight
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What is a good weight to height ratio for a climber? I am about 5'11'' and weigh about 143lbs. I am wondering what should be my minimum weight and my maximum weight. Thanks
-DOug


monkeychild


May 17, 2008, 5:08 PM
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Re: [difdclimber] Good Weight [In reply to]
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disclaimer: I know nothing about this.

That seems pretty light though for someone of your height. I'm only 5 feet tall and I weigh 110. Thing is, you're probably also stronger so I think it sort of balances itself out, if you know what I mean. Maybe a better figure to go by is your BMI (body mass index).

Maybe someone else will have a better answer. . ..
-Monkeychild

P.S. Sorry for the spelling and grammar.


difdclimber


May 17, 2008, 5:09 PM
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Re: [monkeychild] Good Weight [In reply to]
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Thanks for the reply monkeychild. I just don't want to get too heavy but dont' want to get too light you know? I am thinking for me, i could probably be where i am or a little more to be ideal? Anyone have a comment on that? Thanks


AeroXan


May 17, 2008, 5:27 PM
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Re: [difdclimber] Good Weight [In reply to]
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i've seen lots of climbers that are pretty wirey but still have lots of strength. those people seem to be the best climbers from my observation. i'm a little heavier, 6'0" and 200 lbs. i feel like i can still climb pretty well, it's not entirely holding me back or anything.

in my opinion, you should work on strength exercises but don't work on bulking up.


vegastradguy


May 17, 2008, 5:35 PM
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difdclimber wrote:
What is a good weight to height ratio for a climber? I am about 5'11'' and weigh about 143lbs. I am wondering what should be my minimum weight and my maximum weight. Thanks
-DOug

generally, climbing as a workout will shape your body to what it needs to be.

climb regularly, eat what your body asks for, and you should be fine. dont worry too much about it.


difdclimber


May 17, 2008, 5:40 PM
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vegastradguy wrote:
difdclimber wrote:
What is a good weight to height ratio for a climber? I am about 5'11'' and weigh about 143lbs. I am wondering what should be my minimum weight and my maximum weight. Thanks
-DOug

generally, climbing as a workout will shape your body to what it needs to be.

climb regularly, eat what your body asks for, and you should be fine. dont worry too much about it.

Sounds good i like that.


chossmonkey


May 17, 2008, 5:43 PM
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difdclimber wrote:
What is a good weight to height ratio for a climber? I am about 5'11'' and weigh about 143lbs. I am wondering what should be my minimum weight and my maximum weight. Thanks
-DOug
You sound light compared to most people. I'm 6' and about 165 and most people think I'm a skinny fuck. I wouldn't want to weigh more but I really don't desire to weigh less.


brachialis


May 17, 2008, 6:33 PM
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difdclimber wrote:
What is a good weight to height ratio for a climber? I am about 5'11'' and weigh about 143lbs. I am wondering what should be my minimum weight and my maximum weight. Thanks
-DOug

Are you light but with a large bone structure? Light but with lots of body fat? Light but with the legs of a competitive sprinter? My point is height and weight are terribly vague measures of one's physical potential for climbing hard.

I'm actually your height but about 15 lbs. lighter. I've a thin, lanky bone structure and little body fat. So I can get by pretty well without weighing very much. I know three climbers who boulder a good deal harder than I (all three in the V8 - V10 range). Here are their dimensions:

6'4"/ 185 lbs.
6'0"/ 145 lbs.
5'5"/ 145 lbs.

When I train I look for where I most need improvement (the weakest link) and work on it until a different area or set of areas replaces it. In my case, as far as my body is concerned, my weakest links are core and open-hand contact strength. So instead of doing lots of weight training to bulk up my arms and upper back, I focus on these areas. To illustrate what I'm saying, managing a one-arm pull up on a jug is not really going to help me keep my feet on when I'm deadpointing a sloper on a steep face, nor will it keep me on the hold when I reach it.

To summarise, for physical training, focus on much more elemental measures than weight/ height ratio, i.e., core, lock-off, crimping, etc., devoting more attention to weaker areas. And maybe more importantly, unless you already have a lot of climbing behind you, I would focus mostly on developing good technique.


difdclimber


May 17, 2008, 7:34 PM
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thanks that helps. seems like training is more important than the actual weight.


brachialis


May 17, 2008, 8:10 PM
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And more important than training is climbing :)

(well, assuming you're near decent rock or a gym)


difdclimber


May 17, 2008, 8:58 PM
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yeah climbing like twice a week but tomorrow im getting my 3 month pass to my gym (for the summer) before i move to Illinois for college. I'll be climbing daily if possible. with proper rest of course.


brachialis


May 17, 2008, 11:16 PM
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If you're about to begin college, as regards weight, my best suggestion, then, is to eat well and don't drink much :) Two of my climbing partners are undergrads - one gained about 10 lbs. in his first year but climbs at about the same level (5.10 trad/ V3+ boulder), and the other about 15 lbs., little of which was muscle (while he still climbs quite strong - 5.12 sport, he's dropped almost a number grade in max redpoint)

I did undergrad at a university whose population included almost no climbers and whose campus lacked a wall (the local gym was also about worthless, and the nearest good rock was 1.5 hours away). I first began climbing living in Missouri (I was probably the same age as you at the time), where I lived only a city block away from the gym. After about eight months I could climb V4 (albeit with effort). Then I moved. My progress then mostly stagnated for a few years until I recently resumed indoor climbing on a semi-daily basis and seriously took up hangboard training.

If your school doesn't have its own wall, do whatever you reasonably can to get one, even if only a simple woody! You'll not only get stronger, but it'll foster a climbing community among students and therefore help you maintain a richer and healthier social life.


quiteatingmysteak


May 18, 2008, 12:09 AM
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Re: [difdclimber] Good Weight [In reply to]
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Starve yourself. As Jim Karn once said, "it is better to not eat for 3 days, than to eat for 3 days."



When you can look at Hidetaka Suzuki and say to yourself, honestly, "what a fatass," you are ready to send your newest Projjj (which will be onsighted by a 12 year old for the second ascent).


acorneau


May 19, 2008, 10:03 AM
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Re: [difdclimber] Good Weight [In reply to]
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difdclimber wrote:
What is a good weight to height ratio for a climber? I am about 5'11'' and weigh about 143lbs. I am wondering what should be my minimum weight and my maximum weight.

I'm 5'11" and about 153lbs. (+/-2lbs.) I'm not super ripped or anything, but I feel pretty good about my weight.

If I worked hard enough to loose another 5 pounds I'd probably be making it up with 5 pounds of muscle (which wouldn't be so bad, but I'm too lazy to work that hard!)


Gmburns2000


May 19, 2008, 10:16 AM
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My doctor told me that whatever my weight was when I was about 18 then that is what my ideal weight should be. Weight is totally dependent on what your body structure can handle. Sure, there is some flexibility as one can gain or lose weight, and performance can flex in either direction, too. But he suggested that most people stop growing at about 18 years old, and that the body typically structurally builds itself as a result of the weight impact that it endures up to that point. It then stupidly assumes that a person will not gain weight over time and, thus, won't add stress to the bones, joints, tendons, etc. His point wasn't about performance, per se, but about what a person's body structure was built to sustain, and that it's almost all downhill from 18. He also told me that I needed to get down to that weight over a two-to-three year period, because that much weight loss any quicker than that for me was suicidal.Tongue


limeydave


May 19, 2008, 10:43 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Good Weight [In reply to]
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All this advice above rings true for me.
I'm 5'11"

2 years ago I was 190, 25% body-fat. Higher than average cholesterol.
Through climbing and eating a little better, it bottomed out about 148 and I've slowly been adding muscle, I'm 155-160 and 9% body fat.

This is about where I was at 18, and I feel like my body has returned to its natural state over a 2 year period.

Climbing saved my life.

Edit: I wasn't 25% boy-fat...well maybe I was...


(This post was edited by limeydave on May 19, 2008, 10:44 AM)


difdclimber


May 19, 2008, 6:35 PM
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thanks for all the replies guys, GMBURNS2000 i like your fact, it is interesting.


palidon11


May 19, 2008, 7:22 PM
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Re: [acorneau] Good Weight [In reply to]
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i'm 5'6 and about 150 and 17 years of age, i feel good at this ratio. i need to do something with training, climbing has been causing me to bulk up more than tone, for now i don't mind, hopefully it doesn't continue too much longer.


Partner robdotcalm


May 19, 2008, 7:48 PM
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Re: [chossmonkey] Good Weight [In reply to]
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chossmonkey wrote:
difdclimber wrote:
What is a good weight to height ratio for a climber? I am about 5'11'' and weigh about 143lbs. I am wondering what should be my minimum weight and my maximum weight. Thanks
-DOug
You sound light compared to most people. I'm 6' and about 165 and most people think I'm a skinny fuck. I wouldn't want to weigh more but I really don't desire to weigh less.

The issue is not "what most people think" but what your girlfriend thinks.

r.c


granite_grrl


May 20, 2008, 10:26 AM
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Re: [chossmonkey] Good Weight [In reply to]
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chossmonkey wrote:
difdclimber wrote:
What is a good weight to height ratio for a climber? I am about 5'11'' and weigh about 143lbs. I am wondering what should be my minimum weight and my maximum weight. Thanks
-DOug
You sound light compared to most people. I'm 6' and about 165 and most people think I'm a skinny fuck. I wouldn't want to weigh more but I really don't desire to weigh less.
That's because you are a skinny fuck.


tolman_paul


May 20, 2008, 10:58 AM
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It depends on your body structure. John Bachar is 5'-11", was 185#'s at his peak, and could pull one arm pullups with 12#'s strapped to his waste, and free soloed up to 5.13.

There are skinny climbers that climb hard, and muscular climbers that climb hard, and members of both groups that flail misserably.


cchas


May 21, 2008, 7:52 AM
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Body fat is probably one of the better indicators not weight (but people also vary in what is the minimum body fat their body can handle over a few percent (ie: the range is around 5-9% BF and for women 9-13% BF). You go below your ideal range and you will tend to get weak, sick and injuried (which sucks for climbing). Go above it and it doesn't make sense carrying the extra mass around


Partner devkrev


May 21, 2008, 8:29 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Good Weight [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
My doctor told me that whatever my weight was when I was about 18 then that is what my ideal weight should be. ...

When I was 18, I was a fat-ass.

dev


Gmburns2000


May 21, 2008, 8:41 AM
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devkrev wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
My doctor told me that whatever my weight was when I was about 18 then that is what my ideal weight should be. ...

When I was 18, I was a fat-ass.

dev

Then your body structure can probably sustain a fat ass later in life. Of course, there are health benefits to not being a fat ass, too.


thomasribiere


May 21, 2008, 8:51 AM
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Re: [difdclimber] Good Weight [In reply to]
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The good weight is the weight you feel good with. If you ask, you might not be satisfied.

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