Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
Quality 12- and 11+ at new jack
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


ilikerock13


May 21, 2008, 9:31 PM
Post #1 of 11 (2988 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 30, 2005
Posts: 45

Quality 12- and 11+ at new jack  (North_America: United_States: California: San_Bernardino_County: New_Jack_City)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

we might go to new jack this weekend, just curious if anyone out there has suggestions for good low 12 and high 11s?

I appreciate it
roberto


quiteatingmysteak


May 21, 2008, 10:36 PM
Post #2 of 11 (2974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 804

Re: [ilikerock13] Quality 12- and 11+ at new jack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Red Devil is one of the best 12a's there (as I've heard). You may also want to try Stop The Madness. Good 11b is Candy-O, and a few at Heuco around 11a/b to warmup on.


jt512


May 21, 2008, 11:13 PM
Post #3 of 11 (2971 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21890

Re: [ilikerock13] Quality 12- and 11+ at new jack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It's hard to think of an 11+ or 12- at New Jack that isn't good. Here's a list of good ones off the top of my head:

Crossfire (12a)
Minutemen Arete (11d)
Little Stiffy (11c)
Backside Arete (11d)
Clumsy (12a)
Red Devil (12b)
Maynard G Krebs (12a/b)
Stop the Madness (12a) (sandbag?)
Face to Face (11d)
Funny Like a Funeral (12a)
Crack in the Armor (12a)
Freak Show (12a)

Jay


TheHawk


May 21, 2008, 11:53 PM
Post #4 of 11 (2959 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 2, 2008
Posts: 12

Re: [ilikerock13] Quality 12- and 11+ at new jack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

there is an awesome 11d unamed behind boyscout rock up the gully.


jt512


May 22, 2008, 12:06 AM
Post #5 of 11 (2954 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21890

Re: [TheHawk] Quality 12- and 11+ at new jack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TheHawk wrote:
there is an awesome 11d unamed behind boyscout rock up the gully.

Although I don't know the name off the top of my head, that route is named, and it's only 5.11b/c.

Jay


ilikerock13


May 22, 2008, 10:29 AM
Post #6 of 11 (2920 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 30, 2005
Posts: 45

Re: [jt512] Quality 12- and 11+ at new jack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thank you for all your suggestions!
roberto


bender


Jun 14, 2008, 10:48 PM
Post #7 of 11 (2836 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 23, 2002
Posts: 188

Re: [TheHawk] Quality 12- and 11+ at new jack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

TheHawk wrote:
there is an awesome 11d unamed behind boyscout rock up the gully.

is that the line thats got holes drilled but no bolts except the top chains?


jt512


Jun 15, 2008, 2:46 PM
Post #8 of 11 (2808 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21890

Re: [bender] Quality 12- and 11+ at new jack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bender wrote:
TheHawk wrote:
there is an awesome 11d unamed behind boyscout rock up the gully.

is that the line thats got holes drilled but no bolts except the top chains?

It's bolted.

Jay


bender


Jun 22, 2008, 10:26 PM
Post #9 of 11 (2750 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 23, 2002
Posts: 188

Re: [jt512] Quality 12- and 11+ at new jack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
bender wrote:
TheHawk wrote:
there is an awesome 11d unamed behind boyscout rock up the gully.

is that the line thats got holes drilled but no bolts except the top chains?

It's bolted.

hey jay,
a mid grade 11 was left unbolted in a cleft just north of the western most portion of that big formation in the center of the area; wasnt no 11d though


jt512


Jun 22, 2008, 10:44 PM
Post #10 of 11 (2742 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21890

Re: [bender] Quality 12- and 11+ at new jack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bender wrote:
jt512 wrote:
bender wrote:
TheHawk wrote:
there is an awesome 11d unamed behind boyscout rock up the gully.

is that the line thats got holes drilled but no bolts except the top chains?

It's bolted.

hey jay,
a mid grade 11 was left unbolted in a cleft just north of the western most portion of that big formation in the center of the area; wasnt no 11d though

Maynard,

I don't think we're talking about the same route. The one I'm talking about is the only route in a slot canyon behind Boyscout Wall. It's about 5.11b/c. Patty Campbell and I got early ascents of it, maybe seven years ago. It's a quality route, but is rarely climbed since it's in such an obscure location.

Jay


outsi


Aug 15, 2008, 6:23 PM
Post #11 of 11 (2282 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 2, 2004
Posts: 31

Re: [jt512] Quality 12- and 11+ at new jack [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Check out, King of all Media!


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook