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Central Ohio Crag
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bolt109


May 22, 2008, 2:46 PM
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Central Ohio Crag  (North_America: United_States: Ohio)
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Hello everyone I am currently trying to get access to a crag that is approx. 30 mins. east of Columbus in the area of Newark, I have to pitch a reason for the Village that owns the area to open it up for public use, I am looking for any ideas to help pitch this to the municipality that owns the area and I am also trying to get a show of numbers of people who would come check out the crag to climb there and possibly use some of the local restaurants, a little about the crag it is approx. 50' with numerous crack and face lines, I believe the area even gets good ice in the winter, there are currently some bolts in place, it is sandstone, I have attached a picture it's not great and it is of only about 20% of the full length, I think it could be a nice area to train close to home, please show your support and respond
Thanks


(This post was edited by bolt109 on May 24, 2008, 4:37 AM)
Attachments: upload.JPG (24.7 KB)


greenbeaner


Jun 3, 2008, 6:48 PM
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Re: [bolt109] Central Ohio Crag [In reply to]
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I suppose all you can really do is to speak intelligently about the benefits that you mentioned. Bringing business into the local restaurants, and also if there are any campsites in the area they may get business as well. It will bring people, even families out to appreciate the surrounding nature and could spur local guide businesses to form in the future to bring new people to the sport if the area is explored and enough climbing area is discovered. Aside from that, as you said...petition petition petition...you've got my vote.


camhead


Jun 3, 2008, 7:11 PM
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Re: [greenbeaner] Central Ohio Crag [In reply to]
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Check the access fund's website. Under the resources section there are plenty of documents both for climbers and landowners about climbing on private land.

I just moved to Columbus, and would be psyched if there were a nearby crag. Good luck!


dontmaytagme


Jun 4, 2008, 4:21 PM
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Re: [bolt109] Central Ohio Crag [In reply to]
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Email me, and I'll send you a form letter that can be modified to suit your needs. It is a standard form that we on the OCA used to open discussions about access issues with prospective land owners.


ihowat


Jun 19, 2008, 5:51 PM
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Re: [bolt109] Central Ohio Crag [In reply to]
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Yeah - I saw this craq while kayaking down the licking river the other day and was wondering about it since Im new to the area. It sounds like you've already made contact with owners (is it public?). Any details about current access? Should stay off for now? If ok to go, can you give some beta on establish routes and access?


bolt109


Jun 19, 2008, 6:22 PM
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Re: [ihowat] Central Ohio Crag [In reply to]
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ihowat wrote:
Yeah - I saw this craq while kayaking down the licking river the other day and was wondering about it since Im new to the area. It sounds like you've already made contact with owners (is it public?). Any details about current access? Should stay off for now? If ok to go, can you give some beta on establish routes and access?

I believe what you were looking at was black hand gorge nature preserve my suggestion is to stay away from that area, as the ranger is a prick and will take you for everything he can, and trust me I know, climbing in that area is off limits, the crag I'm talking about can be seen from S.R. 16 east of Newark, please stay off for now as we are still trying to get permission and don't want to mess anything up, I will let you know as soon as I find out for sure what is going on, thanks and see you out there


rngrchad


Jun 28, 2008, 12:40 PM
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Re: [bolt109] Central Ohio Crag [In reply to]
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I believe the first and foremost responsible thing to do if you are interested in climbing this "bluff" would certainly be keeping it's wherabouts off of the internet.
On top of that, I've learned that the quickest way to get a choss pile closed to climbing is to mention your intended plan for creating a PUBLIC climbing area to the local government officials. Maybe it's just me, but if you want to beable to climb there I would keep a low-profile, DO NOT go to the municipality, and simply clean up after yourself. These things really would go much further than you may imagine.
But if you feel so inclined, go ahead to inform the whole city of your intentions and watch how quickly you'll see NO TRESSPASSING SIGNS above and below that cliff.

One more thing you should know, people have been climbing this cliff longer than I have been alive. There have been old rusted out LOST ARROW pitons found 3/4 of the way up by my fathers friend 10 years ago.


(This post was edited by rngrchad on Jun 28, 2008, 12:52 PM)


kelly.joseph


Jul 25, 2008, 6:36 PM
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Re: [bolt109] Central Ohio Crag [In reply to]
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I would be more than happy to help out with anything you may need. You have received some great feedback so far. Just go with it and ask me and everybody else for help. If you are going to organize a day where you need alot of people involved let us know through this media and we will show. I know of about 30 people who would support this proactivity.

Check out OHIOCLIMBER.COM
and ACCESS ISSUES there is a great website about access to private land in PA. Hopefully we can work something out in OH.

Spike


mburdick


Sep 2, 2011, 7:08 PM
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Re: [bolt109] Central Ohio Crag [In reply to]
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Did you ever have any luck getting access??


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