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socalclimber
Feb 20, 2008, 9:10 PM
Post #51 of 73
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hhelbein wrote: "Your footwork is shit", stated matter-of-factly in a French accent.
Yup. That's right up there with "Shut up and climb"!
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bmwman91
Feb 22, 2008, 4:44 PM
Post #52 of 73
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socalclimber wrote: hhelbein wrote: "Your footwork is shit", stated matter-of-factly in a French accent. Yup. That's right up there with "Shut up and climb"!
Ahahah, yes those are both good ones. My climbing partner gets a lot of yells from me for "quiet feet" and "what is this, a pull-up contest?"
The best advice I have gotten so far was this thread. I think the overarching themes have been:
1) "quiet feet"
2) Seriously focusing on lifting with the legs on roped climbs.
3) Pick a route rated far above what you think you can do and just do it. Then, promptly forget the rating nonsense in the gym (outside multi-P might still need some consideration here though).
4) Learn to rest! When you have a chance to use a rest position to stretch out those forearms and air out some sweat, do it! Knowing how to rest is super important!
I was a mildly confident 5.10a/b climber before reading this. Last night was my first time at the gym since reading it Monday and with this new focus, I hit 4 different 5.10d's without bailing once, or pumping out!
(I know, I know a gym 5.10d is weak sauce, I have worked harder in Yose on rated 5.9's). Still, I am stoked to be making "progress" of some sort.
So, thank you magical RC.c forums! My technique has shaped up a fair bit thanks to your eccentric postings & ravings.
(This post was edited by bmwman91 on Feb 22, 2008, 6:30 PM)
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lithiummetalman
Feb 22, 2008, 9:55 PM
Post #53 of 73
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In reply to: Ahahah, yes those are both good ones. My climbing partner gets a lot of yells from me for "quiet feet" and "what is this, a pull-up contest?" The best advice I have gotten so far was this thread. I think the overarching themes have been: 1) "quiet feet" 2) Seriously focusing on lifting with the legs on roped climbs. 3) Pick a route rated far above what you think you can do and just do it. Then, promptly forget the rating nonsense in the gym (outside multi-P might still need some consideration here though). 4) Learn to rest! When you have a chance to use a rest position to stretch out those forearms and air out some sweat, do it! Knowing how to rest is super important! I was a mildly confident 5.10a/b climber before reading this. Last night was my first time at the gym since reading it Monday and with this new focus, I hit 4 different 5.10d's without bailing once, or pumping out! (I know, I know a gym 5.10d is weak sauce, I have worked harder in Yose on rated 5.9's). Still, I am stoked to be making "progress" of some sort. So, thank you magical RC.c forums! My technique has shaped up a fair bit thanks to your eccentric postings & ravings.
Dude, don't forget:
5. breath, pay attention to your breathing.
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c22
Feb 22, 2008, 10:58 PM
Post #54 of 73
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I'm gonna have to say...
Your using your feet to much.
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bmwman91
Feb 22, 2008, 11:52 PM
Post #55 of 73
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lithiummetalman wrote: Dude, don't forget: 5. breath, pay attention to your breathing.
Good one. It was the key to my conquering of the slackline, so it definitely can translate over to climbing. Good suggestion.
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robdotcalm
Feb 23, 2008, 12:40 AM
Post #56 of 73
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30 years or so ago I was complaining to the late Layne Kopischka about the serious under ratings of offwidths in his guidebook to Vedauwoo. He said I simply didn’t know how to climb offwidths and so was wrong in my assertions. I asked him if he would show me how to climb them. So we had a day of offwidth instruction. Layne was a high school teacher of physical education so he showed up very prepared with a real written lesson plan. The first thing he taught me was how to tape my hands. Then hanging down so he could see me on many of the climbs, he instructed me in elbow lock, knee bar, arm bar, heel and toe, and squiggling techniques. In that one day, I went from being desperate on 5.6 offwidths to leading 5.9s. It was the most I ever learnt in one day.
When I repeat some of these climbs, I often have warm memories of my time with Layne.
Gratias et valete bene!
RobertusPunctumPacificus
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kane_schutzman
Feb 23, 2008, 7:19 AM
Post #57 of 73
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I giving this now.
If you don't think you can do it, then you should probably try.
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corson
Feb 23, 2008, 12:36 PM
Post #58 of 73
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Posts: 193
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BREATH.
and
"Technique is NO substitute for Power"
If you cant pull the move you ain't gonna send.
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rhythm164
Feb 23, 2008, 12:58 PM
Post #59 of 73
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Posts: 964
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breath
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naitch
Feb 23, 2008, 2:46 PM
Post #60 of 73
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
Posts: 539
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If anyone is serious about learning a breathing technique that can offer a beneficial approach for all intense intermittent and sustained physical activity, the following book may be of interest http://www.leteverybreath.com/
It presents the ancient Russian martial arts Systema Breathing which is the foundational technique of that system. Disclaimer - I'm in no way associated with this group and I'm in the beginning stages of learning it myself. It seems like it has a lot to offer the climber.
YMMV
PS I found this through the "Peaceful Warrior" series by Dan Millman which was foundational to the excellent "Rock Warrior" approach to climbing by Arno Ilgnor
(This post was edited by naitch on Feb 24, 2008, 3:45 PM)
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jdouble
Feb 23, 2008, 3:23 PM
Post #61 of 73
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Posts: 564
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Find better partners.
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Scooter12ga
May 14, 2008, 5:44 PM
Post #62 of 73
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hopperhopper wrote: Them: "You should try < insert route>." Me: "What is it?" Them: "< insert grade that's a couple letters above my current>." Me: "No way...I only climb < insert current level>." Them: "Shut up and tie in." friends pushing me past what i think i can do at the time has always opened up doors for me.
This sounds quite a bit like how I learned how to ski. Glad to hear that it applies to rock as well.
{My FIRST day, 2nd run ever skiing...}
Me: "No way, that's a steep ass blue run"
Him: "Shut up and point your skis!"
Within the first year I was skiing 45+ degree back country terrain effectively and with skill (though perhaps not gracefully.)
Always trying to keep up with a friend that is better than me has forever been a good training technique IMO. The friend, however, would need to know your ability and not try to push you too hard or you could get frustrated or discouraged. The friend needs to push you just beyond your skill set to break you through the fear or whatever other roadblocks are preventing you from improving.
(This post was edited by Scooter12ga on May 14, 2008, 5:50 PM)
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bigredscowboy
May 20, 2008, 3:31 AM
Post #63 of 73
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Registered: Jul 30, 2007
Posts: 138
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Scooter12ga wrote: hopperhopper wrote: Them: "You should try < insert route>." Me: "What is it?" Them: "< insert grade that's a couple letters above my current>." Me: "No way...I only climb < insert current level>." Them: "Shut up and tie in." friends pushing me past what i think i can do at the time has always opened up doors for me. This sounds quite a bit like how I learned how to ski. Glad to hear that it applies to rock as well. {My FIRST day, 2nd run ever skiing...} Me: "No way, that's a steep ass blue run" Him: "Shut up and point your skis!" Within the first year I was skiing 45+ degree back country terrain effectively and with skill (though perhaps not gracefully.) Always trying to keep up with a friend that is better than me has forever been a good training technique IMO. The friend, however, would need to know your ability and not try to push you too hard or you could get frustrated or discouraged. The friend needs to push you just beyond your skill set to break you through the fear or whatever other roadblocks are preventing you from improving.
Certainly good advice to climb with someone who is better than you (it helped me lead 11a outside in 6 months) but be wary of the friend who's gonna help you blow a tendon. Those don't heal too quickly. Climbing moderates isn't just for noObs.
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bb_guns
May 20, 2008, 7:21 PM
Post #64 of 73
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Gmburns2000
May 20, 2008, 7:37 PM
Post #65 of 73
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"Dude, next time take a dump first!"
Best advice I've ever recieved, even if the result was indirectly linked to the request.
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redpoint73
May 20, 2008, 8:10 PM
Post #66 of 73
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Lock off and reach.
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seanfur
May 20, 2008, 8:12 PM
Post #67 of 73
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Registered: Oct 17, 2006
Posts: 14
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Never confess to sleeping with a buddy's wife while said buddy is belaying you.
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drewstEEz
May 20, 2008, 8:20 PM
Post #69 of 73
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Registered: Oct 28, 2007
Posts: 7
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C*ck push-ups
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spacemonkey07
May 21, 2008, 8:53 PM
Post #70 of 73
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Registered: Jul 26, 2004
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c22 wrote: I'm gonna have to say... Your using your feet to much.
Good one! I found this true for me as well. First I made a lot of progress focusing on my technique/footwork. But after a while my climbing partner told me that sometimes it takes too much time. Sometimes instead of just taking good precise steps, it's better to just ram that foot up and lock off. (or something like that) it saves time, especially in a crux whereafter you can rest anyway.
Sooo Not too much technique, you should also stay climbing!
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mercphony
May 22, 2008, 4:10 AM
Post #71 of 73
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Best technique advise? To read The Self Coached Climber.
(This post was edited by mercphony on May 22, 2008, 4:13 AM)
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BC2VT
May 23, 2008, 2:44 PM
Post #72 of 73
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Registered: Nov 8, 2007
Posts: 25
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Two pieces that I've found really handy.
[When I was first learning to sport lead]
"Clip, then relax, breathe, shake out. Then continue the climb." [many thanks to pat at petracliffs]
Read the Rock Warrior's Way.
I'm re-reading it again, b/c of the stupid head issues that are my kryptonite!
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camhead
May 23, 2008, 3:12 PM
Post #73 of 73
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Posts: 20939
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"the key to perfect footwork is really strong fingers."
can't remember who said that, though.
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