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Poussin
May 23, 2008, 12:03 PM
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Registered: May 23, 2008
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Hi,
I am looking for a climbing area not too far from marseilles that could be interesting even in July/August. I was told that the Calanques, eventhough incredibly beautiful, mostly offer routes facing south and are thus almost not climbable in summer. Do you know good alteernatives?
Regards,
Christopher.
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cracklover
May 23, 2008, 12:33 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Others will know more than I, but having spent a week in Les Calanque, I can tell you that there are thousands of routes, and while many face south or west, many do not. Plus, some are right over the sea, and with a sea-breeze, they can be quite pleasant, even if the rest of the continent is in a heat wave.
Cheers!
GO
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Poussin
Jun 2, 2008, 9:41 AM
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Registered: May 23, 2008
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thanks for the info! do you know more about the claim that it is forbidden to hike or climb in the calanques in july and august?
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susan peplow
Jun 3, 2008, 12:42 AM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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Poussin wrote: thanks for the info! do you know more about the claim that it is forbidden to hike or climb in the calanques in july and august?
I haven't heard that either but hiking... yuck. If you plan on going to En Vue consider taking a boat taxi from Cassis that will drop you and pick you up. The biggest problem is running your climbing schedule to conform with the last pick up. The alternative is an hour and half hike out of there.
Easy drive to the small villege for Morgiou which features many north facing routes. A must do moderate is Voix De Fee 6a. Or for something a bit stiffer Vas-y Frankie 6c
En Vau - try Sale temps pour les nains 5c which is short but very fun. West or south facing so early am may be your only option.
You should be able to chase the sun but honestly I don't know how high up in the sky the sun is in France/summer.
If all else fails, bring your swim suit. There are worse things in life then laying by the sea in France.
Try www.ukclimbing.com about any access or seasonal closures.
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kimbill
Jun 3, 2008, 2:31 AM
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Registered: Dec 4, 2006
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The Bouches du Rhone department (where Marseille and the Calanques are located) does close some areas to hikers and climbers in July and August. This is to try to prevent wildfires. I don't know which areas the closures apply to. I also don't know if it is a general ban or if closures depend on weather conditions. The Office de Tourisme in Marseille will be able to give you more information, or ask in any climbing shop.
The www.cosiroc.org site says that the whole area is forbidden in July and August up to the second Saturday in September. However, the website doesn't seem to have been updated in a while so maybe things have changed...
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joshy8200
Jun 3, 2008, 4:46 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
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Went to France the first two weeks of September two years ago. We did not go to the Calanques because as I understood it...it was all closed. I don't know whether climbers ignore these closures or not...wouldn't surprise me, but we chose to honor the closure.
Climbed at the Gorge du Tarn/Jonte near Millau, the Verdon, and L'Orpierre. Temperatures were pretty warm, but never unbearable.
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kimbill
Jun 3, 2008, 8:33 PM
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Registered: Dec 4, 2006
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According to:
http://www.topo-calanques.com/proteger_nature.htm
From 1 July until the Saturday preceding the second Sunday in September, when the wind speed is less than 40 km/hr, access to the Calenques is authorized from 6:00 a.m. to 11:00 a.m. with the requirement of leaving the massif by 6:00 p.m. After that time, anyone present on the site will be fined 135 euros.
At any time of the year when there is a high risk of fire (wind speeds above 80 km/hr) the entire area is closed.
Bringing matches, lighters, stoves and anything that produces fire is strictly prohibited.
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