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Need tips please
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Maxx640


May 25, 2008, 10:23 AM
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Need tips please
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Hi,
I've had time to do a few routes since I decided to throw myself into the addicting world of Aid climbing (asked here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...;;page=unread#unread). I have done several A1 and one A1+ or mixes of aid+free climbing (ex:http://img518.imageshack.us/...ndromeda2nm5php6.jpg). I love being on slick walls and singing songs in my head out of stress!

I have two questions though.

1. Being on A1, the points are often in place but I find them miles away from each other. I tried clipping in with fifi hook very close but it is out of reach. I then tried clipping in on the daisy, a little longer and going up, but it is very hard to go and fetch the next point: Pulling myself up and being no longer tight on the point just kills my arms and I am dead after only one pitch. How do you stand on the last rungs of the etrier and balance without falling backwards? Does pulling yourself up on the etriers kill you too?

2. I was discussing this point with my partner, he thinks it is very bad for the second to ascend on the rope used to climb (50mX2 8.6mm) in order to clean and come up the pitch. He reckons you need a 50m static rope to come up on.
Is he right or just paranoid? Tongue

Thanks,

Max


(This post was edited by Maxx640 on May 26, 2008, 3:52 AM)


coastal_climber


May 26, 2008, 12:03 PM
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Re: [Maxx640] Need tips please [In reply to]
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1. I'm guessing your talking about going from piece to piece. Endurance & core strength is going to help you pull up until your clipped into the piece you are on.

2. For leading aid routes, you should be using a 10mm+ dynamic rope, thick enough to take edge abuse.


>Cam


Maxx640


May 26, 2008, 1:45 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Need tips please [In reply to]
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Yes, I'm talking of going from piece to piece. In my case my problem is getting on the last two rungs of the aiders. I just can't do it and am very scared because if I fall, the shock is taken by the daisy chain. Isn't that bad? And isn't there a risk of falling head down?


coastal_climber


May 26, 2008, 1:50 PM
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Re: [Maxx640] Need tips please [In reply to]
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Oh, top stepping. Smile That takes balance, and lots of practice. I don't do it often (6'3"), but when I do, I clip into the daisy with my fifi, and use tension to hold me close to the wall, don't forget to use the rock as well. A good place to practice top-stepping is on a bolted sport route, it gives you an idea of how to move up your aiders properly.

Do you girth hitch daisy's to your harness, then clip them to your aiders? I use cows tails, so I don't have to worry about shock-loading too often.


>Cam


(This post was edited by coastal_climber on May 26, 2008, 1:52 PM)


climbingaggie03


Sep 9, 2008, 11:11 AM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Need tips please [In reply to]
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[quote "Do you girth hitch daisy's to your harness, then clip them to your aiders? I use cows tails, so I don't have to worry about shock-loading too often.


>Cam
I'm confused, do you use a double length runner as a cows tail instead of a daisy chain? Or do you use a shorter/custom length piece of webbing? What are the advantages/disadvantages how does this avoid shockloading? Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I read this, and I've never heard of using a cow's tail instead of a daisy.


coastal_climber


Sep 9, 2008, 9:23 PM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Need tips please [In reply to]
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On my belay loop I have one fifi hook and one cows tail. The cows tail is a 8-inch piece of webbing girth hitched to my belay loop with an oval at the end.

The reason I use this is because with two daisy's girth hitched, each going to 2 set of aiders is if you are moving to your next placement/bouncing the next piece, and it blows, you are still attached to the last one. When the top piece blows, you fall down to the bottom daisy.

With cows tails, you are only connected to your top piece, so if it fails you fall on your rope, not your static daisy.

Sure, you have the risk of dropping a set of aiders, but as the person who taught me says; "just don't drop your fucking aiders"

I have yet to.

I can PM you pics if you'd like.



>Cam


climbingaggie03


Sep 9, 2008, 9:29 PM
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OIC i've tried this, but I find that I'm faster with daisy chains.


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