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chrish22
Jun 12, 2008, 5:30 PM
Post #1 of 2
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Registered: Jun 1, 2008
Posts: 22
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I might be going to Sardinia for a few days sometime around July 2 to the 12th. Does anyone have any beta for climbing on the island? Additionally, I'd need a partner with a rope and draws if anyone is interested. Thanks.
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tisar
Jun 26, 2008, 7:21 AM
Post #2 of 2
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Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 2577
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Hi!
You definitely picked the wrong time to climb there, it'll be hot like hell, but...
Sardinia is easy to handle. Head for Cala Gonone (East Coast). It's the center of climbing on the Island. Do not camp, but look out for a room or apt. It's cheaper and more comfi.
Check the tourist information at Cala Gonone, the girl there (Christina) is super nice and helpful. She'll give you a couple of addresses and help you out with non-english speaking renters.
Places to climb:
Cala Luna - a must. A stunning gorge with a beautiful beach. You'll have to take a boat ride (10€), but it's more than worth it. Not too many routes below 5.10 though, the majority will be much harder and the easier routes pretty polished.
Cala Fuili - almost as beautiful as C. Luna and closer to the village. Super nice climbing there and you can hop into the water from time to time. Check the route on the arrete to the right (looking towards the water). It's an easy (5b/c) but an incredible climb.
Bidiriscottay - From the harbour walk the water line to the left. It's 10 min to go and you'll find some caves to climb in and around. Exceptionally cool and various climbs including some easy overhangs and a not-too-hard roof. The easiest climbs are a little polished but still okay.
La Poltrona - The place to go if it's cold, but unclimbable in July. You'd get roasted. Nice slabs, really easy to hard, in a bowl-like valley. Sun whole day through, gets fricken hot in summer.
Buci Arta - A relativly new crag, obviously bolted by just one person who tried to keep the secret. It's in one of the guides though, and the best sports climbing crag I've seen so far. Almost gym like, 30 excellent 30-35m routes next to each other, starting at 5c/5b and then getting harder. Perfect.
All those areas are limestone. They're perfectly bolted, so you can fully climb to your limit. That said, carry a few inches of tech cord or such - sometimes the anchors consist of two bolts and a huge pile of rotten slings, you might wanna replace or reinforce them.
Have loads of fun! Oh f... how I wish I could join you Frown
- Daniel
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