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brit69


Jun 10, 2008, 2:20 PM
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new to indoor climbing
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I just ordered a pair of Mad Rock Flash Lace shoes and I'm just wondering how well they'll hold up after say three trips weekly to the gym.They are about $70 and didn't know if being relatively inexpensive would make them any less durable then more expensive shoes.
It's my first real pair and I'm just wondering if I made a good choice...Sorry for the long post.


grubbjasona


Jun 10, 2008, 3:20 PM
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Re: [brit69] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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I'm assuming you're relatively new to climbing?... If this is correct, then you're footwork will undoubtably be horrible, thus shortening the lifespan of the shoes. I'd say they'll last about 6 months @ 3 times per week.


Partner j_ung


Jun 10, 2008, 5:18 PM
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Re: [grubbjasona] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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Mad Rocks don't have the greatest rep for durability, but to be honest, at 3 days/wk just starting out, nothing is going to last you very long. I think you made a good purchase.


cacalderon


Jun 10, 2008, 7:05 PM
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Re: [j_ung] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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Agree with statement above... if new to climbing you'll probably claw your way up the wall.... I say they last 4-6 months


brit69


Jun 11, 2008, 3:04 PM
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Re: [j_ung] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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Thanks for replying.Quick question:How long do good shoes last for experienced climbers on average?


patmay81


Jun 11, 2008, 3:16 PM
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Re: [brit69] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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I actually think madrocks ARE good shoes- I've owned quite a few shoes, but nothing smears and edges for me as good as madrocks. sure they are disposable (they usually last me 3 or 4 months)- but I love the soft rubber! for crack though I use my sportivas (quite a bit more expensive) and they have lasted me 2 years- although they are shot now.


macblaze


Jun 11, 2008, 8:26 PM
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Re: [brit69] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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Climbing twice a week, my indoor shoes average about a year... my Xmas present to my self every year!

(of course the get lots of time off for 2-3 months in the summer when I try to get on real rock with much more comfy shoes...)


lena_chita
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Jun 12, 2008, 7:28 AM
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Re: [brit69] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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brit69 wrote:
Thanks for replying.Quick question:How long do good shoes last for experienced climbers on average?

Depends on what and how often you climb.

My first pair of shoes never got holes. They were generoiusly-sized 5.10 Spires, I climbed in them in the gym for almost two years, interspersed with some trips outside...

My shoes now fit much more snugly and last about 5-6 months of climbing about 3-4 times a week (gym and outside)


iwasasportweenie


Jun 12, 2008, 7:59 AM
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Re: [brit69] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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I second the post re: Mad Rocks being good shoes. The rubber's nice and soft, good for edging and smearing, and I've also found them to be very comfy, even when they're so tight I need to put lotion on my heels to get them on. Before the advent of the Flash a few years ago, the 5.10 Anasazi Velcro held was the undisputed king (at least among folks I knew and climbed with) of all-around high-performance rock shoes. With the appearance of Mad Rock and the Flash, the Anasazi has pretty much gone the way of the dodo.

It's true MR shoes tend to be less durable, either because the low price tag equates to poorer quality or because the soft rubber just wears faster. But when you can buy 2 pairs of Flashes for the same price as one pair of another shoe, that's not a problem. My only question is why you'd go with the lace-up version. I've had great luck with the velcro Flash, and especially as an indoor climber, quick shoe entry/exit is a huge plus. I'm sure the lace-ups will work well, but you might want to consider going velcro for your next pair.


djlachelt


Jun 12, 2008, 1:20 PM
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Re: [brit69] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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You didn't ask this, but you may want to know that when they do wear out you can get them resoled for a not unreasonable price. I've had good luck and fast service at "Rock and Resole"

http://www.rockandresole.com/

http://www.rockclimb.org/resolers.html


grubbjasona


Jun 12, 2008, 3:08 PM
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Re: [brit69] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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Also, what are the walls at ur bouldering gym like?... are they just wood?... veneer?... are they textured?... If the wall is textured, the shoes will where out a LOT faster, (especially with less than precise footwork).


Vinny_A


Jun 12, 2008, 8:00 PM
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Re: [iwasasportweenie] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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iwasasportweenie wrote:
I second the post re: Mad Rocks being good shoes. The rubber's nice and soft, good for edging and smearing, and I've also found them to be very comfy, even when they're so tight I need to put lotion on my heels to get them on. Before the advent of the Flash a few years ago, the 5.10 Anasazi Velcro held was the undisputed king (at least among folks I knew and climbed with) of all-around high-performance rock shoes. With the appearance of Mad Rock and the Flash, the Anasazi has pretty much gone the way of the dodo.

It's true MR shoes tend to be less durable, either because the low price tag equates to poorer quality or because the soft rubber just wears faster. But when you can buy 2 pairs of Flashes for the same price as one pair of another shoe, that's not a problem. My only question is why you'd go with the lace-up version. I've had great luck with the velcro Flash, and especially as an indoor climber, quick shoe entry/exit is a huge plus. I'm sure the lace-ups will work well, but you might want to consider going velcro for your next pair.

Thats completely false. Everyone who I know that climbs in flashes cant wait to get new shoes. They hate them and they upgrade to anasazi's. You cant even compare the two shoes. The anasazis are just all around better shoes. I despised my mad rocks but cant get enough of my anasazis. I hardly think they have gone the way of the dodo.


NiNe


Jun 12, 2008, 9:05 PM
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Re: [Vinny_A] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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Im a new climber as well so Im not sure if my post means anything in terms of "expertise". But in my opinion if your starting out climbing, like everyone else said, you dont want super expensive shoes cause you'll rip through em. Kinda like buying a first car but on a extremely cheaper scale lol. So just wait until you get your shoes and try em on and go climbing a couple times with them. If they fit decently well and dont kill your feet too badly then good job with the buy Tongue


iwasasportweenie


Jun 14, 2008, 10:18 AM
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Re: [Vinny_A] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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Vinny_A wrote:
iwasasportweenie wrote:

Thats completely false. Everyone who I know that climbs in flashes cant wait to get new shoes. They hate them and they upgrade to anasazi's. You cant even compare the two shoes. The anasazis are just all around better shoes. I despised my mad rocks but cant get enough of my anasazis. I hardly think they have gone the way of the dodo.

Depends on your feet. I could never wear Anasazi's because I could get a good fit without putting myself in too much pain to climb. I still have scarring on my big toes from my stint wearing Anasazis, even 6 years after the fact. Flashes have always fit me like a glove, and they're WAY cheaper. As for who's wearing what, just take a look around at the gym, the crag, wherever. Most stores don't even sell the Anasazis anymore, though the laceups have had more staying power.


justroberto


Jun 14, 2008, 11:32 AM
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Re: [iwasasportweenie] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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iwasasportweenie wrote:
As for who's wearing what, just take a look around at the gym, the crag, wherever. Most stores don't even sell the Anasazis anymore, though the laceups have had more staying power.

Therein lies the answer. Most people don't wear anasazis in the gym (other than maybe the southwests) because they don't want to mess them up pulling plastic. It only makes sense to wear your shitty shoes, i.e. the Madrock Flashes indoors and reserve the decent shoes for actual climbing. My flashes only get pulled out for DWS these days.

The old anasazi heel cups were kind of dumb, and the flashes fit me better in that regard, but after two weeks of climbing they were already falling apart. I'd climb in boreals again before i'd even consider getting another pair of MRs.


mtlclimber


Aug 5, 2008, 1:33 PM
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Re: [brit69] new to indoor climbing [In reply to]
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I've been climbing for a few years and never bought the same shoe twice. It takes me 3-4 months of climbing 4 times a week indoor (outdoor climbing will kill your soles in comparison) in all cases, so I think you've made a good choice in finding a cheap pair of shoes.

As you can tell I've gone through a lot of shoes and my best suggestion is if the fit is good and you're feet are comfortable, then buy them!


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