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bdbc


Jun 16, 2008, 8:52 PM
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Learning Aid
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hey, i'm looking to start some aid climbing and i was looking for some pointers. anybody have advice on starting equipment? thanks!


majid_sabet


Jun 16, 2008, 9:32 PM
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Re: [bdbc] Learning Aid [In reply to]
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two sets of jumar ascenders, two set of daisy, two 6 step aiders plus

pitons, copper heads, and tons of other little sh*t


quiteatingmysteak


Jun 16, 2008, 9:50 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Learning Aid [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
two sets of jumar ascenders, two set of daisy, two 6 step aiders plus

pitons, copper heads, and tons of other little sh*t

If you already have a basic free rack I would wait on the hammering gear. Odds are you won't be nailing until you get some clean climbing under your belt.


summerprophet


Jun 16, 2008, 9:52 PM
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Aid climbing and wall climbing go hand in hand. Aid climbing really isn't that much fun (unless you consider shitting your pants a grand ol' time)

Aid climbing gear you need in addition to your free rack would be aiders (ettries), daisies, the 3 BD hooks (or equivalent) and about 20 to 30 free biners. This is enough to get you started and practicing.

Changing this into real mulipitch climbing adds a lot to the expense account. Add small cams, and micro nuts to the rack as well as a double free rack (hopefully your partner has some gear), Jugs (Jumars), fifi hooks (if you prefer them), a good pair of gloves, Double gear sling, COMFORTABLE HARNESS (or atleast belay a belay seat), kneepads, and a large selection of tie offs and add 15 more biners.

Bringing full on wall climbing into this, involves a hauling device, a couple of pulleys, haulbags, all the typical overnight sleeping gear, possibly a portaledge, awesome storm gear, wall shoes, haul ropes, lower out lines, and a very understanding spouse.

If new routes, or hard aid are what you have in mind, the specialty gear is endless; pitons, peckers, screamers, rurps, beaks, sliding nuts, offset cams, offset nuts, bolt kit, hammer, and on and on and on.

Far cheaper just to buy a ticket to northern Africa and suffer in that manner, rather than learn to aid climb. Wall climbing is something that very few enjoy to do, it is something to enjoy to have done.


stymingersfink


Jun 16, 2008, 11:01 PM
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Re: [summerprophet] Learning Aid [In reply to]
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summerprophet wrote:
. Aid climbing really isn't that much fun (unless you consider shitting your pants a grand ol' time)
well put



summerprophet wrote:
20 to 30 free biners.
Make sure they're ovals.



summerprophet wrote:
Far cheaper just to buy a ticket to northern Africa and suffer in that manner, rather than learn to aid climb. Wall climbing is something that very few enjoy to do, it is something to enjoy to have done.
also well put. However, I still look forward to my next one. Just ain't gonna be soon.Unimpressed


Yosemite1976


Jun 17, 2008, 5:54 AM
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Aid climbing can be a lot of fun, and very rewarding. So go ahead and give it a try . you might surprise your self and have a blast . But dont get caught up in all the hype about needing tons of gear . Just tie your self a couple Aiders and go to to nearest cliff and get started with the gear you have . If you do get good at it ? you will find your self getting invited along on climbs with others that cant handle aid climbing .

Start by reading some of Piton peets Aid climbing posts on this web site and above all have fun and use your imagination to create possibiltes where non exist now . and maybe you will find your self making a few first accents in the future .Smile


GeneralBenson


Jun 17, 2008, 6:13 AM
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stymingersfink wrote:
summerprophet wrote:
20 to 30 free biners.
Make sure they're ovals.

I've heard this alot, but I've always wondered why ovals are preffered for aid? Is it just because of all the different stuff that will be getting clipped into them or something?


c4c


Jun 17, 2008, 6:16 AM
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GeneralBenson wrote:
stymingersfink wrote:
summerprophet wrote:
20 to 30 free biners.
Make sure they're ovals.

I've heard this alot, but I've always wondered why ovals are preffered for aid? Is it just because of all the different stuff that will be getting clipped into them or something?

D's tend to shift under a load resulting in the climber dropping a load.


stymingersfink


Jun 17, 2008, 7:05 AM
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Yosemite1976 wrote:
Start by reading some of Piton peets Aid climbing posts on this web site
...Just don't finish there, nor allow them to discourage you.


jeremy11


Jun 17, 2008, 8:06 AM
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c4c wrote:
GeneralBenson wrote:
stymingersfink wrote:
summerprophet wrote:
20 to 30 free biners.
Make sure they're ovals.

I've heard this alot, but I've always wondered why ovals are preffered for aid? Is it just because of all the different stuff that will be getting clipped into them or something?

D's tend to shift under a load resulting in the climber dropping a load.

And BD Ovalwires are hands down the best oval out there. Lighter, thinner, larger, easier to clip, stronger (than BD ovals) and better gate clearance.
Pass the Pitons Pete is now on www.mountainproject.com and has lots of good advice!


pmyche


Jun 17, 2008, 9:09 AM
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marde


Jun 17, 2008, 9:53 AM
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Re: [pmyche] Learning Aid [In reply to]
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I only have ovals (screws) on each end of my daisy/aider combo.
I like the ovals there.
I use lockers so I don't need an extra biner for jumaring.
But I don't see a reason for ovals on my placements.
There is no biner shift at all, because there is only one biner in that placement, the one of my aider.


(This post was edited by marde on Jun 17, 2008, 9:54 AM)


fenderfour


Jun 18, 2008, 8:08 AM
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Books, balls, and patience


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