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bigo
Jun 20, 2008, 9:54 PM
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very cool aric - those 5/16" are grade 5? The failure loads look about right for that diameter.
shear strength for grade 5 ~75ksi.
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adatesman
Jun 21, 2008, 12:42 AM
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bigo
Jun 21, 2008, 4:04 AM
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oh, that is a little low then, huh?
Maybe the prying on the head from the moment induced from hanger is at play.
I'll ponder ...
Again cool stuff - thanks for posting the videos.
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majid_sabet
Jun 21, 2008, 5:58 AM
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nice work aric.
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angry
Jun 21, 2008, 9:41 AM
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I think what is important to remember is that not all identical hangers are the same.
The leepers and piton hangers are susceptible to corrosion and can weaken. The yellowed SMC hangers have a brittleness issue.
Is that one in 10? One is 100? Or 1 in 2?
From the looks of it, those hangers were all great. That's good to know. I don't see this test causing me to trust a nasty old bolt any more or less. Especially since it's rarely the hanger i distrust, it's the 35 year old bubblegum holding it to the rock.
(This post was edited by angry on Jun 21, 2008, 9:43 AM)
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adatesman
Jun 22, 2008, 2:15 AM
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angry
Jun 24, 2008, 12:34 AM
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I've placed 5/16 on lead that I am confident in. It's nice because unless the route becomes extremely popular there really is no need to go back and fix them.
I see the angle iron thing now, it was probably 4am when I wrote that, so I'm not holding myself responsible for it.
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