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Banta
Jun 21, 2008, 5:45 PM
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Im Looking for advice on how to stay motivated when all I have is a Gym. I happen to work at the Gym and the nearest Outdoor climbing is about a 1.5 hours drive so my indoor climbing time far outweighs my outdoor and I find myself getting too bored to continue training indoors.
So what advice can i get from you guys on hows to keep training fun. thanks.
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kmc
Jun 21, 2008, 6:10 PM
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1.5 hours isn't that far. I make a minimum of a 2hr drive to the closest crag just about every week (Gunks). If I want to go anywhere else, its even further. Of course, when I climb, Im usually there for 2 or 3 days, which makes it a bit easier. I do know a lot of other people who drive even further than that, sometimes just for day trips.
My advice would be to save up some coin and spend it on the gas.
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Valarc
Jun 21, 2008, 6:15 PM
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Agreed that 1.5 hours is not a big deal. My regular trips are usually in the 2.5-3 hr range. It's nothing to make a 3 hour drive to HP40, boulder 'till my tips bleed, and be home in time to feed the dogs before bed. There is climbing closer to here, but I basically never bother - the more distant destinations interest me more.
That said, I do climb in the gym quite a lot and have found lots of things to keep me motivated. One was to practice the movement exercises from The Self Coached Climber instead of doing the same taped routes week-in and week-out. Another was to learn to be a competent routesetter, so I can entertain myself both by putting up problems for others to climb, and stuff for me to climb too. It's a lot harder to be frustrated by the lack of new problems when I know I can grab a wrench and a bucket of holds and have a new problem the next time I come to the gym.
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Banta
Jun 21, 2008, 7:19 PM
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Let me clarify why 1.5 hours IS indeed a long drive to everyone who says its not. First off, I live in Michigan and when I reach my destination after driving for 1.5 hours I see 30 ft (at highest) sandstone cliffs that you arent alloud to trad climb. so its top roping only with the difficulty not exceeding 5.12 so I have nothing to REALLY challenge myself on. and very few boulders.
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sugdenj82
Jun 21, 2008, 7:29 PM
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Time to move. Lots of places out there where you'll never have to set foot inside a gym or ever touch another piece of plastic.
And who says you're not allowed to trad climb on sandstone cliffs? That's up to you. Don't let others choose your style and ethics.
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Banta
Jun 21, 2008, 7:57 PM
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sugdenj82 wrote: And who says you're not allowed to trad climb on sandstone cliffs? That's up to you. Don't let others choose your style and ethics.
Well, it's posted on the "park rules". And I dont want to damage the rock I grew up climbing on. But I'll agree with you that it is indeed time to move.. im thinking colorado, mountain biking, skiing, and climbing... i dont think i could find time to work tho...
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zeke_sf
Jun 21, 2008, 8:02 PM
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1.5 hours for crappy climbing kinda sucks, but what is in the 2-3 hour range? What's in the 4 hour range? Like a previous poster mentioned, lots of people make the 2-4 hour treks (even longer) on a regular basis to get to quality rock. I've known people who made 8 hour treks to get to quality cragging every weekend they could go. It's part of the game. Yes, yes, gas is only getting more expensive, but that's why you carpool and try to camp out near the crag to maximize your drive time and money.
If you start getting outdoor projects, then your time in the gym will seem more focused and you'll probably have more fun.
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Banta
Jun 21, 2008, 8:17 PM
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zeke_sf wrote: 1.5 hours for crappy climbing kinda sucks, but what is in the 2-3 hour range? What's in the 4 hour range? Like a previous poster mentioned, lots of people make the 2-4 hour treks (even longer) on a regular basis to get to quality rock. I've known people who made 8 hour treks to get to quality cragging every weekend they could go. It's part of the game. Yes, yes, gas is only getting more expensive, but that's why you carpool and try to camp out near the crag to maximize your drive time and money. If you start getting outdoor projects, then your time in the gym will seem more focused and you'll probably have more fun.
thank you, that is sound advice.
Thanks to everyone else as well.
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rkepley_1
Jun 21, 2008, 10:48 PM
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Banta wrote: im thinking colorado,
Oh, didn't you hear that CO is closed now. Right Angry?
(This post was edited by rkepley_1 on Jun 21, 2008, 10:49 PM)
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Myxomatosis
Jun 22, 2008, 9:18 PM
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Make some goals.
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angry
Jun 22, 2008, 9:32 PM
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rkepley_1 wrote: Banta wrote: im thinking colorado, Oh, didn't you hear that CO is closed now. Right Angry?
I swear to god, if I get associated with Colorado, I'll tear off my dick and choke myself to death with my detatched bloody member.
I just live here, I'm no rad guy.
Anyone want to go get a soy latte? I know a great place next to the yoga studio.
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rkepley_1
Jun 22, 2008, 10:25 PM
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angry wrote: Anyone want to go get a soy latte? I know a great place next to the yoga studio.
I'm there if you're buying!
(This post was edited by rkepley_1 on Jun 22, 2008, 10:26 PM)
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angry
Jun 22, 2008, 10:41 PM
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I thought you had a photo shoot today?
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bizarrodrinker
Jun 23, 2008, 4:40 PM
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Banta wrote: Let me clarify why 1.5 hours IS indeed a long drive to everyone who says its not. First off, I live in Michigan and when I reach my destination after driving for 1.5 hours I see 30 ft (at highest) sandstone cliffs that you arent alloud to trad climb. so its top roping only with the difficulty not exceeding 5.12 so I have nothing to REALLY challenge myself on. and very few boulders.
if there is nothing exceeding 30 feet (i.e probalby in the 20-25 ft range for the most part) what do you need a rope for anyway. They sound like highball boulder problems to me. get a pad and have at it.
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mountainwonk
Jun 23, 2008, 6:43 PM
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Well, wherever you move to, DO NOT come to northern Utah. Sucks here and you would not like it. Yes, there are a couple hundred limestone sport routes less than 20 minutes from my couch, backcountry skiing pretty much everywhere, and even a small resort 30 minutes up canyon if you like riding lifts for only $250 a season. But all of this is no good because getting work done is really, really difficult with all the distraction. And, the "local dominant culture/religion" really sucks because on Sundays 70% of everyone is sitting in church, leaving all these empty crags and mountains everywhere. So, yes, please move to Colorado where the latte is at least good!
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knieveltech
Jun 23, 2008, 6:53 PM
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Banta wrote: Let me clarify why 1.5 hours IS indeed a long drive to everyone who says its not. First off, I live in Michigan and when I reach my destination after driving for 1.5 hours I see 30 ft (at highest) sandstone cliffs that you arent alloud to trad climb. so its top roping only with the difficulty not exceeding 5.12 so I have nothing to REALLY challenge myself on. and very few boulders.
Swab the sand out and keep pulling, princess.
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getout87
Jun 23, 2008, 6:57 PM
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knieveltech wrote: Banta wrote: Let me clarify why 1.5 hours IS indeed a long drive to everyone who says its not. First off, I live in Michigan and when I reach my destination after driving for 1.5 hours I see 30 ft (at highest) sandstone cliffs that you arent alloud to trad climb. so its top roping only with the difficulty not exceeding 5.12 so I have nothing to REALLY challenge myself on. and very few boulders. Swab the sand out and keep pulling, princess.
Thank you.
Does it hurt?
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knieveltech
Jun 23, 2008, 7:42 PM
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Yeah, it hurts a bit the first couple times until you start to develop calluses.
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shimanilami
Jun 23, 2008, 7:46 PM
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I agree that having an outdoor project you can envision and train for is a great way to make your gym climbing more "meaningful" (?).
I'd also suggest that you don't look at gym climbing as "climbing", but rather as a training tool. Once you've abandoned the perceived need to climb at your limit in the gym, you'll start using it dihe gym differently. Get some books. Do some fun drills. Perhaps get a training partner who can motivate you.
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Valarc
Jun 23, 2008, 10:47 PM
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shimanilami wrote: I'd also suggest that you don't look at gym climbing as "climbing", but rather as a training tool.
Different strokes for different folks, I guess. I look at gym climbing as something fun to do instead of sitting around watching TV. If I approached it like training, I'd hate it as much as I hate getting on the treadmill or lifting weights.
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getout87
Jun 23, 2008, 11:21 PM
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Valarc wrote: shimanilami wrote: I'd also suggest that you don't look at gym climbing as "climbing", but rather as a training tool. Different strokes for different folks, I guess. I look at gym climbing as something fun to do instead of sitting around watching TV. If I approached it like training, I'd hate it as much as I hate getting on the treadmill or lifting weights.
I completely agree.
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lrossi
Jun 23, 2008, 11:52 PM
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Climb with cute girls; you will stay motivated.
Seriously, a good part of climbing motivation is about your partners. Find more people who are fun to hang out with. If there isn't a big climbing community there it might be hard of course.
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