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ilikerock13
Jun 23, 2008, 12:34 AM
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Hello,
Just curious if anyone knows how to get a guide book for Frankenjura in the USA?
Unfortunately i only have a month to get it, so unfortunately overseas shiping is kind out of the question.
roberto
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adatesman
Jun 23, 2008, 1:14 AM
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I'm not aware of one, and given that we had a royal PITA finding one over there I have my doubts that you'll find one here. But hopefully you'll be able to prove me wrong....
We were in Nurnburg last summer and did some climbing in the Frankenjura, but unfortunately I forget the place we got the guidebook at. A climbing gym on the northeast side of town pointed us at a gear shop close to the old city center, and the name was that of the owner of the shop (just FYI, we tried 2 or 3 climbing gyms and several outdoor shops before finding one that knew of a climbing guide... seems fitness gyms frequently have climbing walls but no knowledge of outdoor climbing). I apparently left a receipt in the book that's from "Bat Jura West", 92355 Velburg, A3 Nurnberg Richtung Regensburg, Telephone: 09182-9306-0. That's not the name I remember (the very nice woman at the last gym we went to {whose 'little bit of English' was far better than my 'conversational German'} gave me a guy's name and an address), but I don't recall buying anything else in the area so I suspect that's the correct receipt and contact info. In case you're not expecting it, the guidebooks are wicked expensive (we paid something like 51 Euros for ours). That said, its probably the best guidebook I've ever seen and puts all others to shame. Absolutely worth it.
One of the problems we ran into was that we didn't know the name or author of any of the guidebooks. From what we could tell, the best one(s) (for non-German speaking people) were a 2 volume set called Franken 1 and Franken 2 by Ulrich and Harald Roker (wish I knew how to so umlauts on an American keyboard.... put one over the 'u' in Nurnburg and the 'o' in Roker). I believe Franken 1 covered the northern part of the Frankenjura and Franken 2 covered the southern part.
One other bit that might help if you can't find one until you get there is that 'climbing guide' in German is 'kletterfuhrer'. Not exactly a term you'll find in the dictionary.....
Good luck and have fun!
-aric.
(This post was edited by adatesman on Jun 23, 2008, 1:18 AM)
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k.l.k
Jun 23, 2008, 2:20 AM
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hey roberto-- are you an aac member? if so, check to see what they have in the library. one of the benefits is that they will mail out their books, even the rare ones.
you can also try www.klettern.de
and ed-- for umlauts, you just add an "e": Harald Roeker. It will work fine for most editors and Scroogle.org searches.
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tuna
Jun 23, 2008, 3:01 AM
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The best place to go for guide books in Europe is Piz Buch and Berg in Zurich.
The website is www.pizbube.ch
tele 0041 1 240 49 49 Müllerstrasse 25 8004 Zurich
ciao
Santana
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yevquest
Jun 23, 2008, 3:33 AM
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As usual on this site, lots of bad info. The only up to date english guidebook for the frankenjura is Frankenjura Extreme. I was there in May and used this book. Worked well, good directions to the crags, and it helped pare down the massive amounts of crags into a doable amount, based on the best crags. One caveat, this book is definitely weighted toward climbers operating at 11+ or higher.
http://www.wolverinepublishing.com/frankenjura_extreme.html
Hope this helps and have fun.
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Merkin
Jun 23, 2008, 4:07 AM
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When I lived in Stuttgart I would climb in Frankenjura at least once a month. I would down load topos from www.coronn.com. Good site and easy to use.
Good luck
Ray
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localshredder
Jun 23, 2008, 4:40 AM
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Chessler Books has the guide book titled Frankenjura Extreme by Sebastian Schwertner. It's about thirty bucks. Hope that helps.
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irregularpanda
Jun 23, 2008, 5:14 AM
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k.l.k wrote: hey roberto-- are you an aac member? if so, check to see what they have in the library. one of the benefits is that they will mail out their books, even the rare ones.
That's strong advice. I wanted to get the good needles guidebook (i30 bucks$!!!!!!!!!!), so I got it for free from the AAC.
The other thing that kicks ass is rescue insurance.
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ilikerock13
Jun 23, 2008, 5:57 AM
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Thank you all for your help!
roberto
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adatesman
Jun 23, 2008, 1:59 PM
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yevquest wrote: The only up to date english guidebook for the frankenjura is Frankenjura Extreme.
Well, both Frankenjura Extreme and the Roeker books were published in 2006, so I'd be surprised if one is significantly more up to date than the other. And just FYI, the Roeker books include both German and English for everything and have excellent maps and directions as well.
yevquest wrote: One caveat, this book is definitely weighted toward climbers operating at 11+ or higher.
I don't know if I'd use the term 'weighted toward', as they cut out almost everything under ~5.11d. If you're not climbing at that level, this guide will probably not be much use. UKclimbing.com has a review of it if you're interested.
I don't mean to sound argumentative so sorry if it comes across that way. I totally understand the desire to weed out some of the smaller crags; there's about a gazillion of them, which makes the Roeker books a bit cumbersome.
One other option is frankenjura.com. They seem to have everything and the topos are free (kinda like our routes database here), but I found it a bit difficult to use since I didn't know where places were.
-aric.
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steady_climbing
Jun 23, 2008, 2:17 PM
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The Roker guides are so-so. Aric was right on when he said to leave the Extreme book alone. Even if you want to climb harder routes. the book misses out on alot of worthwhile crags. (what the weekend warriors miss is that there are many a worthwhile route on some of the smaller crags; furthermore; some of the larger crags are overcrowded and a waste of time).
You really should check out Frankenjura.com. Lots of good info (most in German)
Screw the book, if you come to the Frankenjura drop me a line, and I will personally show you around. Beer, crags, and anything else you are looking for.
Bis Bald
(This post was edited by steady_climbing on Jun 23, 2008, 2:23 PM)
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madam
May 7, 2014, 11:02 AM
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Hi,
I know this is "a little bit" old thread, however may be somebody might find it useful when searching info about F-Jura. I have just created a list of "all" sectors in Jura where you can climb when raining. All the information is taken from frankenjura.com and I summed it up here: http://nzclimb.blogspot.de/...n-it-rains-wenn.html
Sorry for the spam, hopefully you don't take it like that:)
adam
(This post was edited by madam on May 13, 2014, 4:26 PM)
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