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Rafajaman
Jun 22, 2008, 7:54 PM
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I was climbing the other day on 'Bears Reach 5.7, East Wall, Lover's Leap, California' when I stood up and my cams hooked on an under cling flake causing my gear loop to RIP OUT of the stitching, throwing my cams 300 ft. to the deck. The move was not dynamic, but rather a static hight step. I would expect climbing harnesses to be better built than this, especially coming from Black Diamond. The harness was a cheaper model ( roughly $50) and only 8 months old. Is this a manufacturing error or a poor design? Not sure.
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RJVoss
Jun 22, 2008, 7:56 PM
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Write a letter to BD and tell them you werent satisfied with their product. Show them the pictures. Odds are, you will get a new harness and some stickers!
Edit: Maybe even some new cams
(This post was edited by RJVoss on Jun 22, 2008, 7:57 PM)
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angry
Jun 22, 2008, 8:00 PM
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I've seen it on trango harnesses that were popular about 10 years ago.
I use Petzl harnesses and the plastic gear loops state something like 5kg on them. That's definately enough to hold cams but not so strong it's unbreakable.
I'm personally not a fan of the Metlious Safe-Tech harness but you would never break it's gear loops.
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josephgdawson
Jun 22, 2008, 8:23 PM
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You must have one hell of a high step!
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minexploration
Jun 22, 2008, 8:26 PM
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I have a BD harness that did the same thing. I have since cut all the loops off of it and use it for a TR harness when friends come to town.
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maldaly
Jun 22, 2008, 10:15 PM
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One more reason to use a gear sling ;-)
We've recently beefed up the gear loops on our harnesses for just this reason.
I'm sure BD will take care of you.
Mal
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WVUCLMBR
Jun 22, 2008, 10:55 PM
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I love that if you say the words "Trango" Malcolm appears as if by magic.
If only all companies had a rc.com rep........
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maldaly
Jun 22, 2008, 10:59 PM
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Every time Trango is mentioned on this forum it sets one of my old mercury fillings to vibrating. I can't ignore it and the only way to make it go away is to post up.
I hate it!!!
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angry
Jun 22, 2008, 11:00 PM
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Like Beatlejuice?
Trango Trango Trango....
Malcolm knows better than to defend or promote his products on this board. He tells it like it is and spreads info. If it convinces you to buy something, well that's your problem.
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stagg54
Jun 22, 2008, 11:14 PM
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angry wrote: Like Beatlejuice? Trango Trango Trango.... Malcolm knows better than to defend or promote his products on this board. He tells it like it is and spreads info. If it convinces you to buy something, well that's your problem.
I've met Mal a couple times at the New River Rendezvous. He seems like a real straight talker. Real nice guy.
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spikeddem
Jun 23, 2008, 2:07 AM
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It says right on the gear loops that they are rated to 0 kN.
Some harnesses have gear loops that are rated to 10 kN . . . at least I'm pretty sure I recall climbing with someone that had them rated to 10 kN. I don't remember what company it was.
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naitch
Jun 23, 2008, 3:16 AM
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spikeddem wrote: It says right on the gear loops that they are rated to 0 kN. Some harnesses have gear loops that are rated to 10 kN . . . at least I'm pretty sure I recall climbing with someone that had them rated to 10 kN. I don't remember what company it was.
It's the Metolius Safe-Tech that Angry mentioned up-thread
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justroberto
Jun 24, 2008, 5:12 PM
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stagg54 wrote: angry wrote: Like Beatlejuice? Trango Trango Trango.... Malcolm knows better than to defend or promote his products on this board. He tells it like it is and spreads info. If it convinces you to buy something, well that's your problem. I've met Mal a couple times at the New River Rendezvous. He seems like a real straight talker. Real nice guy.
We once had a bachelor party for Mal. He ate the entire cake before we could tell him there was a stripper in it.
His poop is used as currency in Argentina and he is the father of every kid on this rc.com. Malcolm Daly is a son of a bitch!
Edited for relevancy:
I've always been a little suspicious of the rubber gear loops on my two bd harnesses. The mental image of half my gear falling off mid-climb makes me stop every time i feel a cam lobe catch on a feature.
(This post was edited by justroberto on Jun 24, 2008, 5:18 PM)
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altelis
Jun 24, 2008, 5:19 PM
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i love how a thread started about how a bd harness gear loop broke turns into a list of accolades for mal/trango.......
says a lot about mal, or a lot about people's trust in bd that a running rant wasn't started....etiher way, weird, huh?
makes you go "mmm"?
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WVUCLMBR
Jun 24, 2008, 5:24 PM
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Kinda creepy, but I posted this pic on myspace and one of our friends said "I didn't know your dad lost his leg".....
I was adopted @ birth and have never met my parents....are you my daddy Mal? and if so can I have my allowance for the last 29 years?
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stymingersfink
Jun 24, 2008, 5:30 PM
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WVUCLMBR wrote: Kinda creepy, but I posted this pic on myspace and one of our friends said "I didn't know your dad lost his leg"..... I was adopted @ birth and have never met my parents....are you my daddy Mal? and if so can I have my allowance for the last 29 years?
...would you have, Mal?
...Mal?
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zeke_sf
Jun 24, 2008, 5:56 PM
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maldaly wrote: One more reason to use a gear sling ;-)
That's what I was thinking!
Although, I tend to place gear on my harness when cleaning, so I'd be in the same boat.
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sidepull
Jun 24, 2008, 6:12 PM
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As mentioned, I'm sure if you brought this to BD's attention that they'll "take care of you." That said, if you're climbing and your harness catches on an undercling wouldn't you rather that the gear loop breaks? The alternative is that you pull yourself off the rock right? Moreover, how common is it that someone executes a high step that forces their gear loop into an undercling? It just sounds really clumsy and noobish to me. Of course, I wasn't there so all I can go on are postings, harmless little postings.
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WVUCLMBR
Jun 24, 2008, 6:18 PM
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You idiot....hookers get paid for sex....my momma was just a slut. And it would have been in Pittsburgh, late summer 1978.
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phillygoat
Jun 24, 2008, 7:04 PM
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angry wrote: I'm personally not a fan of the Metlious Safe-Tech harness but you would never break it's gear loops.
Hey Angry- out of curiosity, what don't you like about the Safe-Tech?
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Rafajaman
Jun 24, 2008, 7:22 PM
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Yeah, I haven't clocked in years of climbing yet. However, if you saw the route you might understand how easy it is to get cams caught ( there are undercling flakes everywhere). Maybe I should rack my cams on the back loops instead of the front ones, or just use a gear sling as several of you have suggested . I returned my harness to the gym I bought it from and have been refunded. I now have a Misty Mountain harness. We'll see what BD has to say about the cams.....
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Gmburns2000
Jun 24, 2008, 7:42 PM
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Rafajaman wrote: Yeah, I haven't clocked in years of climbing yet. However, if you saw the route you might understand how easy it is to get cams caught ( there are undercling flakes everywhere). Maybe I should rack my cams on the back loops instead of the front ones, or just use a gear sling as several of you have suggested . I returned my harness to the gym I bought it from and have been refunded. I now have a Misty Mountain harness. We'll see what BD has to say about the cams.....
I was just on that route a little more than a week or so. I can totally see gear getting caught on all the weird shapes on the flakes. I'm not sure where the high-step would have come from, but even if one did a lieback on the third pitch I could see gear getting caught on the other side of the flake. Bummer about that. You'll like the Misty harness. They make good stuff (not that BD doesn't).
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dingus
Jun 24, 2008, 8:01 PM
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angry wrote: Like Beatlejuice? Trango Trango Trango.... Malcolm knows better than to defend or promote his products on this board. He tells it like it is and spreads info. If it convinces you to buy something, well that's your problem.
Mal is a stand up guy. He's of the mold Chris Harmston used to fill on the old rec.climbing. The guy from Omega Pacific seems to be a stand up guy too.
I appreciate gear mfgs who don't turn every post into a sales pitch and post up what is in effect insider information to the benefit of us all.
Thanks Malcom.
Oh, once decending from Charlotte Dome I butt scootched to the edge of a ledge and then hopped down to a sloping exfoliation slab maybe 5 feet lower.
Only a rear loop of my Misty Mtn harness caught on some knob or something. Suddenly I was dangling there off the back of my harness, 3 feet off the ground. Then just as suddently the thing broke. Some slings went flying and so did I. Luckily my cat-like reflexes (since slowed to slug-like pulsations) prevented me from tumbling down many hundreds of feet of ever steepening exfoliation slab.
Ever since I've been a lot more aware of those gear loops and their strength (and propensity to get hung up on things).
My first couple of harnesses had no gear loops kids! They used to be considered somewhat superfulous, then a luxury and now they are a given.
Go figger.
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Jun 24, 2008, 8:02 PM)
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hafilax
Jun 24, 2008, 8:21 PM
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j_ung wrote: angry wrote: I'm personally not a fan of the Metlious Safe-Tech harness but you would never break it's gear loops. I'm reasonably certain that I'm not going to tie into a gear loop anytime soon, but I bought one years back when I was setting a lot of routes in the local gym. Before then, I had this hideous mental image of holding a bucketful of holds on a gear loop, hearing a pop and getting a bird-s-eye view of 20lbs of plastic braining some hapless little kid. I still use one, but more for its adjustability. That whole 3-D thing works well for me.
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