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brownie710
Jul 1, 2008, 12:43 PM
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Owners of either shoe- What has the stretch been in these shoes as I have heard varying reports
I've read that the perforated synth of the gambit actually allows it to stretch much more than "will stretch enough to conform to feet" billing on the box
. The mix of synth and leather in upper of the nago makes me wonder if the heel/toe will stretch out while the rest will stay as is.
oh yeah, does anyone want to by some tupperware?
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morlebeke
Jul 1, 2008, 1:00 PM
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I've owned 2 pair of gambits, the first one stretched width wise so much I downsized another 1/2 size and it still has stretched so much I don't like them any more. they were/are very comfortable and I wanted them for all day trad stuff, but the laces were a good inch apart new, and now they are near touching, and the shoes spin on my feet in trying to use thin edges. highly annoying when you're working up some thin slab or edging a slightly overhanging corner and your shoe rotates right off the edge and peels. I've been eyeing the nago's as a result, haven't bought yet, but my past sportivas (muiras and katanas) have edged much better than my 5.10's (anasazi's and gambits). I think it's just I have very narrow feet, had the same problem w/ my anasazi's.
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jp_sucks
Jul 1, 2008, 1:58 PM
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Gambits stretch a ton, I have two pairs and both stretched a lot. No experience with the Nagos.
Also, rubber on the Gambits is crap. I know of at least 10 climbers around here that bought some and every single one complains about them falling apart.
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tkambitsch
Jul 1, 2008, 8:32 PM
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I am considering the Sportiva Nago as a resplacement to the Focus. I really loved those shoes and wore two pair out after destroying a pair of Synchros that I also loved. Those both were stiff, lined leather lace ups.
Is the Nago a good replacement? Is there another La Sportiva model I should consider instead?
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curt
Jul 2, 2008, 7:29 AM
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jp_sucks wrote: Gambits stretch a ton, I have two pairs and both stretched a lot... Also, rubber on the Gambits is crap...
You should have stopped while you were ahead. You may actually know something about how much the shoes stretch.
Curt
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brownie710
Jul 2, 2008, 12:20 PM
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OK, so it sounds like the gambits have few fans regarding the stretch and the durability, Does anyone have a pair of nagos they can speak about?
Thanks to all who shared their thoughts thus far
brownie
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jp_sucks
Jul 2, 2008, 5:58 PM
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How do you figure oh wise one?
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curt
Jul 3, 2008, 2:51 AM
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jp_sucks wrote: How do you figure oh wise one?
Your overall opinion of the Gambits may be somewhat compromised by your comment about the poor quality of the 5.10 Onyx rubber. Most people (myself included) think that Onyx rubber is just about the best stuff available on any shoe.
Curt
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renlad
Jul 3, 2008, 3:49 AM
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I own both.
I bought the gambits first they stretched way to much. and wore out way to quick. I had them resoled but it didn't matter beecause they stretched so much they we worthless. Than I bought the Nago's wow what a difference. they streched around a 1/2 size and have been holding strong for a few months now. I have no signs that i'll need to resole them anytime soon. way better shoe and way cheaper. you might want to check out the scarpa techno. They have some splitting sole problems though.
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curt
Jul 3, 2008, 4:00 AM
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renlad wrote: I own both. I bought the gambits first they stretched way to much. and wore out way to quick. I had them resoled but it didn't matter beecause they stretched so much they we worthless. Than I bought the Nago's wow what a difference. they streched around a 1/2 size and have been holding strong for a few months now. I have no signs that i'll need to resole them anytime soon. way better shoe and way cheaper. you might want to check out the scarpa techno. They have some splitting sole problems though.
Thanks. If I'm ever in the market for an ideal shoe to attempt 5.9s, I'll check both of those out.
Curt
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renlad
Jul 3, 2008, 4:53 AM
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you must suck cause i climb 12's in them just fine.
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curt
Jul 3, 2008, 5:11 AM
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renlad wrote: you must suck cause i climb 12's in them just fine.
Yeah, I can see that from your profile.
renlad wrote: 2008-04-04 Hang Dog 5.9 Pacemaker 2007-10-13 Top Rope 5.7 Rosemary 2007-10-13 Flash 5.7 Beelzebub 2007-10-13 Onsight 5.4 Nubble Face 2007-10-13 Red Point 5.4 Gunboat Diplomacy 2007-10-13 Red Point 5.6 Corn Flakes 2007-10-13 Top Rope 5.8 Up from the Bog 2007-08-28 Red Point 5.4 Easy Layback 2007-08-21 Top Rope 5.9 Veils of Illusion 2007-08-18 Red Point 5.6 Cinnamon Slab *** 2007-08-18 Hang Dog 5.8 Jete 2007-08-17 Red Point 5.7 Sterling Crack 2007-08-17 Red Point 5.8 The Diamond 2007-07-09 Top Rope 5.6 Sweethog 2007-06-11 Red Point 5.5 A Flake Called Lee 2007-06-11 Red Point 5.5 For short people only 2007-06-04 Top Rope 5.9 Vulgarian Wedge 2006-09-19 Flash 5.4 Beginners Face 2006-09-16 Red Point 5.7 Ronnies Leap
Too bad you had to hangdog and top rope most of those 5.8s and 5.9s too.
Curt
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dlintz
Jul 3, 2008, 5:16 AM
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renlad wrote: you must suck cause i climb 12's in them just fine.
He definitely sucks at climbing, especially those really really tough routes.
d.
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caughtinside
Jul 3, 2008, 5:19 AM
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curt wrote: renlad wrote: you must suck cause i climb 12's in them just fine. Yeah, I can see that from your profile. renlad wrote: 2008-04-04 Hang Dog 5.9 Pacemaker 2007-10-13 Top Rope 5.7 Rosemary 2007-10-13 Flash 5.7 Beelzebub 2007-10-13 Onsight 5.4 Nubble Face 2007-10-13 Red Point 5.4 Gunboat Diplomacy 2007-10-13 Red Point 5.6 Corn Flakes 2007-10-13 Top Rope 5.8 Up from the Bog 2007-08-28 Red Point 5.4 Easy Layback 2007-08-21 Top Rope 5.9 Veils of Illusion 2007-08-18 Red Point 5.6 Cinnamon Slab *** 2007-08-18 Hang Dog 5.8 Jete 2007-08-17 Red Point 5.7 Sterling Crack 2007-08-17 Red Point 5.8 The Diamond 2007-07-09 Top Rope 5.6 Sweethog 2007-06-11 Red Point 5.5 A Flake Called Lee 2007-06-11 Red Point 5.5 For short people only 2007-06-04 Top Rope 5.9 Vulgarian Wedge 2006-09-19 Flash 5.4 Beginners Face 2006-09-16 Red Point 5.7 Ronnies Leap Too bad you had to hangdog and top rope most of those 5.8s and 5.9s too. Curt
damn that's a heavy serving of the pwnbread.
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renlad
Jul 3, 2008, 6:08 AM
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thats right you were licking my balls on a few of those 5.9's maybe u should get a better shoe. cause you must be tired of tasting ball sweat. Go back to playing DnD and sucking dick. the last time you climb anything was over 20 years ago. Go put your spandex back on and let the nurse use the computer at the retirement home.
(This post was edited by renlad on Jul 3, 2008, 6:13 AM)
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curt
Jul 3, 2008, 6:17 AM
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renlad wrote: thats right you were licking my balls on a few of those 5.9's maybe u should get a better shoe. cause you must be tired of tasting ball sweat. Go back to playing DnD and sucking dick.
Look, little ass-grommet, I don't really care that you can't climb for shit and don't know what you are talking about--that's fine. Just don't post here and pretend like your opinion matters.
Curt
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brownie710
Jul 3, 2008, 12:02 PM
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curt wrote: renlad wrote: you must suck cause i climb 12's in them just fine. Yeah, I can see that from your profile. renlad wrote: 2008-04-04 Hang Dog 5.9 Pacemaker 2007-10-13 Top Rope 5.7 Rosemary 2007-10-13 Flash 5.7 Beelzebub 2007-10-13 Onsight 5.4 Nubble Face 2007-10-13 Red Point 5.4 Gunboat Diplomacy 2007-10-13 Red Point 5.6 Corn Flakes 2007-10-13 Top Rope 5.8 Up from the Bog 2007-08-28 Red Point 5.4 Easy Layback 2007-08-21 Top Rope 5.9 Veils of Illusion 2007-08-18 Red Point 5.6 Cinnamon Slab *** 2007-08-18 Hang Dog 5.8 Jete 2007-08-17 Red Point 5.7 Sterling Crack 2007-08-17 Red Point 5.8 The Diamond 2007-07-09 Top Rope 5.6 Sweethog 2007-06-11 Red Point 5.5 A Flake Called Lee 2007-06-11 Red Point 5.5 For short people only 2007-06-04 Top Rope 5.9 Vulgarian Wedge 2006-09-19 Flash 5.4 Beginners Face 2006-09-16 Red Point 5.7 Ronnies Leap Too bad you had to hangdog and top rope most of those 5.8s and 5.9s too. Curt
Curt I don't know you but it is obvious you are hilarious! Anytime your in the ADKs you can climb with me. Absolutely priceless.
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brownie710
Jul 3, 2008, 12:07 PM
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Judging by the level of arrogance only found in young pups I would bet that half of your rack (definitely those slider nuts) are older than renlad
(This post was edited by brownie710 on Jul 3, 2008, 12:07 PM)
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morlebeke
Jul 3, 2008, 2:46 PM
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so curt, what shoe would you suggest for all day trad that edges well?
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curt
Jul 3, 2008, 3:09 PM
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morlebeke wrote: so curt, what shoe would you suggest for all day trad that edges well?
I like the LaSportiva Tradmasters and the Scarpa Marathons. I also like the 5.10 Gambits.
Curt
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zeke_sf
Jul 3, 2008, 3:23 PM
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Definitely Evolv Bandits.
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brownie710
Jul 3, 2008, 3:32 PM
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i first went with evolv, a top notch shoe, but unfortunately they just don't fit my foot shape and the little to no stretch doesn't help. If i bouldered or did sport i would have stuck with an 8 or 8.5. when going for all day,long trad routes (more my thing) the 9's are too big. bummer
i'm thinking i'll go with the nago's but would love to have someone who owns a pair tell me about the stretch factor. I've never worn a mixed synth/leather upper shoe before.
thanks
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curt
Jul 3, 2008, 3:37 PM
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brownie710 wrote: i first went with evolv, a top notch shoe, but unfortunately they just don't fit my foot shape and the little to no stretch doesn't help. If i bouldered or did sport i would have stuck with an 8 or 8.5. when going for all day,long trad routes (more my thing) the 9's are too big. bummer i'm thinking i'll go with the nago's but would love to have someone who owns a pair tell me about the stretch factor. I've never worn a mixed synth/leather upper shoe before. thanks
I have exactly the same issue with Evolv. I've heard great things about them--but none of their shoes seem to fit my feet very well.
Curt
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brownie710
Jul 3, 2008, 4:39 PM
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yeah it's a bummer. It seems like if they fit your feet people swear by them, since they don't fit my i just swore at them and returned two pairs to EMS after one day outings with two different sizes.
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mach2
Jul 3, 2008, 5:55 PM
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Has anyone else found the found the Nago be a somewhat high volume shoe?
I'll submit my vote for Red Chili Corona lace as a nice all day trad shoe.
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