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zeke_sf
Jun 25, 2008, 7:04 PM
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So, I decided to check the area out today, just to see what the climbing looked like. The directions as detailed here (which are the same as in the Falcon guide, Rock Climbing Arizona), will not currently work. There is construction on the dirt road (128th Street), and the construction crews have closed off the road and piled insurmountable mounds of dirt on the road itself. So, how do I get up to Tom's Thumb, failing this access route? It would also be interesting to know how this is going to affect access to the crags there. I'm pissed about it, and I haven't even climbed there yet!
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nutcrackersweet
Jul 3, 2008, 12:47 AM
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same thing happened to me yesterday. anyone have any news?
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lvpyne
Jul 3, 2008, 2:07 AM
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You might try taking Alma School Road/Parkway east from Happy Valley Road. It'll take you through a bunch of neighborhoods but you'll end up pretty close to the parking lot for Sven Slab and Tom's Thumb. You'll probably want a map to navigate through the neighborhoods...
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toofreakinsexy1
Jul 3, 2008, 3:09 AM
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They've got this sweet thing called Google Maps....
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aerili
Jul 3, 2008, 4:24 AM
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Although a lot of the climbing is excellent, you guys are unbelievably masochistic. It was 113 degrees today...in the shade!! OMG, wait til October! 
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curt
Jul 3, 2008, 5:33 AM
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aerili wrote: Although a lot of the climbing is excellent, you guys are unbelievably masochistic. It was 113 degrees today...in the shade!! OMG, wait til October!
Agreed. I-17 North will take you to Flag.
Curt
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nutcrackersweet
Jul 3, 2008, 5:42 AM
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the alma school route from happy valley is actually the way i went. you still end having to drive down 128th st from the north, and end up getting blocked by huge mounds of dirt lying across the road.
it's easy to just drive around it all if you have a high-clearance vehicle but i guess i was wondering more about access/trespassing issues, like maybe if some of that land is now private and being developed. the last time i was out there was several months ago.
i'm gonna try to get at it from the west next. thanks for the replies.
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nutcrackersweet
Jul 3, 2008, 5:44 AM
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haha, thanks for the beta curt!
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zeke_sf
Jul 3, 2008, 3:12 PM
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aerili wrote: Although a lot of the climbing is excellent, you guys are unbelievably masochistic. It was 113 degrees today...in the shade!! OMG, wait til October!
So, I shouldn't have been climbing at Pinnacle Peak yesterday? It WAS hot, come to think of it.
I'm new to the area, so I just wanted to hike by the climbing up there, check it out.
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zeke_sf
Jul 3, 2008, 3:14 PM
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toofreakinsexy1 wrote: They've got this sweet thing called Google Maps....
As I understand it, there are access issues to the parking / approach situation. I'm absolutely positive google maps isn't going to tell me a damn thing about that.
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lvpyne
Jul 3, 2008, 6:51 PM
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zeke_sf wrote: So, I shouldn't have been climbing at Pinnacle Peak yesterday? It WAS hot, come to think of it.
Ah, Pinnacle Peak in the summer isn't too bad. Try Cactus Flower Wall or Y-Crack Boulder -- those two areas and also the areas around the routes "Chutes-n-Ladders" and "Sidewinder" all are fine up until 10:30 am or so. In the afternoons (i.e. after 5pm) try the Sundeck area.
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zeke_sf
Jul 3, 2008, 7:01 PM
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lvpyne wrote: zeke_sf wrote: So, I shouldn't have been climbing at Pinnacle Peak yesterday? It WAS hot, come to think of it. Ah, Pinnacle Peak in the summer isn't too bad. Try Cactus Flower Wall or Y-Crack Boulder -- those two areas and also the areas around the routes "Chutes-n-Ladders" and "Sidewinder" all are fine up until 10:30 am or so. In the afternoons (i.e. after 5pm) try the Sundeck area.
Yes, East Cactus Flower was where I was at. I was tr soloing, so it's pretty convenient with those easy-access tiers. I'd love to work the O-Dub on the Y-Crack boulder. It was still heavily in the shade when I was leaving the area around 10:30am or so. I'm not up to the "Sidewinder" grade yet, but it's good to know.
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lvpyne
Jul 3, 2008, 7:12 PM
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zeke_sf wrote: Yes, East Cactus Flower was where I was at. I was tr soloing, so it's pretty convenient with those easy-access tiers. I'd love to work the O-Dub on the Y-Crack boulder. It was still heavily in the shade when I was leaving the area around 10:30am or so. I'm not up to the "Sidewinder" grade yet, but it's good to know.
There's a 5.6ish crack that goes up the backside of Y-Crack Boulder. If you want to just work the offwidth on TR, you can lead up the crack on the back of the boulder (it takes gear pretty well -- I've rope soloed it to drop a rope on the offwidth) and extend the anchor off the top of the boulder. It makes working the offwidth fairly straightforward. If you're into TR soloing, the anchors on top of Y-Crack can be used for the 5.6 crack, the offwidth, and 4-5 other face routes on the backside of the boulder.
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climbsomething
Jul 3, 2008, 7:25 PM
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Um, Zeke?
Point your zekemobile north on I-17. Take highway to its terminus.
Trust me on this.
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zeke_sf
Jul 3, 2008, 8:26 PM
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lvpyne wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Yes, East Cactus Flower was where I was at. I was tr soloing, so it's pretty convenient with those easy-access tiers. I'd love to work the O-Dub on the Y-Crack boulder. It was still heavily in the shade when I was leaving the area around 10:30am or so. I'm not up to the "Sidewinder" grade yet, but it's good to know. There's a 5.6ish crack that goes up the backside of Y-Crack Boulder. If you want to just work the offwidth on TR, you can lead up the crack on the back of the boulder (it takes gear pretty well -- I've rope soloed it to drop a rope on the offwidth) and extend the anchor off the top of the boulder. It makes working the offwidth fairly straightforward. If you're into TR soloing, the anchors on top of Y-Crack can be used for the 5.6 crack, the offwidth, and 4-5 other face routes on the backside of the boulder.
Thanks, yeah, I'm considering doing that in the near future. Those climbs look like a bit of fun.
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zeke_sf
Jul 3, 2008, 8:29 PM
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climbsomething wrote: Um, Zeke? Point your zekemobile north on I-17. Take highway to its terminus. Trust me on this.
I'm rehabbing an interminable hand injury right now, so I'm just into doing stuff that is easy and close to home right now. I've had to cancel a road trip already, in fact. I've gone to Mt. Lemmon to ride my bike up and I'd probably go to all the good Flagstaff to hike. Sucks.
By the way, who are you rooting for? Griffin or Jackson? I'm so watching that this weekend.
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gandolf
Jul 3, 2008, 9:10 PM
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It's really hot but if you still have that masochist feeling - Take Pima Road north, east on Happy Valley Road, right on Alameda, right on 119th, left on E. Casitas/Del Rio Dr., take a right on the dirt road that goes by the only house in the area. Park at the end of the road (past the house). Good luck, go early and take plenty of water.
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zeke_sf
Jul 3, 2008, 9:12 PM
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gandolf wrote: It's really hot but if you still have that masochist feeling - Take Pima Road north, east on Happy Valley Road, right on Alameda, right on 119th, left on E. Casitas/Del Rio Dr., take a right on the dirt road that goes by the only house in the area. Park at the end of the road (past the house). Good luck, go early and take plenty of water.
Awesome! Thanks. I'd seen other directions but these seem pretty straightforward.
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sonso45
Dec 17, 2008, 12:19 AM
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I know, it's winter. Stay here and climb now. Flag later. I used the latest directions posted, worked very well. Only a short bit of dirt road. The trail to Tom's Thumb is under construction but the original parking area is unaffected yet. Please drive slowly through the residential areas and the last house you pass.
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