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1st solo aid attempt
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northcave


Jul 4, 2008, 2:54 AM
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1st solo aid attempt
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Yeah ok so this is gonna seem a little lame to many of you guys but hell its a good learning curve for a 1st time.

Went fine, used a clove hitch rather than a self feeding device. Important thing was that i started at the bottom with all my kit and i ended at the top with all my kit.

http://timgood.net/...g%20Pex%20Hill/5.JPG

http://timgood.net/...g%20Pex%20Hill/2.JPG

http://timgood.net/...g%20Pex%20Hill/3.JPG

http://timgood.net/...g%20Pex%20Hill/4.JPG


sungam


Jul 4, 2008, 4:46 AM
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Re: [northcave] 1st solo aid attempt [In reply to]
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Awesome dude.
Don't let any I'm-so-goods bomb on you, you're out there having fun, and that is all that matters
BTW, ver, ver skilled to make a post about being proud and achieving without being spray-like.
Keep it up, before you know it you'll be a thousand feet off the deck hanging on a RP 0.


northcave


Jul 4, 2008, 4:49 AM
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Re: [sungam] 1st solo aid attempt [In reply to]
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cheers dude,,,,

but,,, "spray like"... come again?


doz


Jul 4, 2008, 6:46 AM
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Re: [northcave] 1st solo aid attempt [In reply to]
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He is saying you did a good job not coming across as a total TOOL.



So did you build an anchor, lower, jug and clean your line??? Oh the memories!! Keep it up once you get the solo bug you will never want to aid with some one again.

Ainít it great


TheTeacher


Jul 4, 2008, 8:18 AM
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sungam wrote:
Awesome dude.
Don't let any I'm-so-goods bomb on you, you're out there having fun, and that is all that matters.

Maybe thats why I like soloing so much. No one to show off to, no one to worry about, no one to feel stupid infront of.
I hate soloing because of all the work! I've found myself talking to myself (Smegol style) "Get down there and clean the pitch! I lead this thing, now you clean it! I'm not leading till you do!" When I realize its just me, normaly I'd feel embarased, yet its just me on pitch 5 and I'm the only one on the wall on a tuesday.

Nice Work with the Solo! Now step it up and configure your haul system. Take a photo of it and post it.


northcave


Jul 4, 2008, 11:56 AM
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Re: [doz] 1st solo aid attempt [In reply to]
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doz wrote:
So did you build an anchor, lower, jug and clean your line???

Yeah basically just from what i've read on here and just sussed it out as the only way i could think of really. I stuck in a cam and a nut at the bottom and also backed it up with boulder i found close by. Got to the top anchored it off and abseiled down the spare line to clean the pitch. Packed the kit tied it to the bottom of the two lines and shunted back up with a coupe of prussiks as ascenders. I've got a propper ascender but left it with my srt rig at home.

But yeah i need to figure out how to haul heavy kit... my rack was easily pulled up by hand without a pully system. Will let you know how i get on. Smile


northcave


Jul 4, 2008, 11:58 AM
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p.s,,,, what do people tend to use instead of just a clove hitch? I've seen things like a soloist, solo aid and grigri being used? Any real life suggestions?


whiskeykid


Jul 4, 2008, 12:33 PM
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Re: [northcave] 1st solo aid attempt [In reply to]
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northcave wrote:
p.s,,,, what do people tend to use instead of just a clove hitch? I've seen things like a soloist, solo aid and grigri being used? Any real life suggestions?

I prefer the gri-gri and backup knot. I use a DMM Belaymaster biner on the gri-gri to reduce the risk of a cross-load during a fall. For a backup I clove hitch a 24" runner to my belay loop and throw a locker on it. Then I tie an overhand knot on a bight about 20' below the gri-gri and clip it to the locker. If for whatever reason the gri-gri doesn't lock up during a fall the knot will stop it. Obviously you have to untie and re-tie the backup knot every 20', but it only takes a few seconds.

I've tried the silent partner but not the soloist and solo aid. To my understanding you have to attach the solo aid and the soloist to a chest harness? The silent partner worked well, I use to use it while rigging industrial fall protection, but it's huge! The nice thing about the gri-gri too is that at anytime you can lower out without re-rigging. This is handy as hell while setting up for a pendulum or (ahem) bailing off. Blush

Also, you'll see guys who retro-fit the gri-gri with a piece of cable to clip to a chest harness. This holds it upright and ensures that it grabs if you fall upside down. Personally, I'm not keen about drilling holes in equipment and if you use a backup knot you can't go far if the gri-gri doesn't bind.

Congrats on the first solo BTW. When I first started solo-aid I was discouraged about how slow it is but now it's how I spend the majority of my climbing time. It's a good feeling topping out on something knowing that you put in every scrap of effort. Don't be discouraged or intimidated by the systems. Take your time and work it all out on the ground, it'll come. Be careful too, there's no one to double check you.

And most importantly! Ignore the inevitable "F'ing Noob!" comments that you're sure to get on this forum!!


quiteatingmysteak


Jul 4, 2008, 1:33 PM
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Re: [northcave] 1st solo aid attempt [In reply to]
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northcave wrote:
Yeah ok so this is gonna seem a little lame to many of you guys but hell its a good learning curve for a 1st time.

Went fine, used a clove hitch rather than a self feeding device. Important thing was that i started at the bottom with all my kit and i ended at the top with all my kit.

http://timgood.net/...g%20Pex%20Hill/5.JPG

http://timgood.net/...g%20Pex%20Hill/2.JPG

http://timgood.net/...g%20Pex%20Hill/3.JPG

http://timgood.net/...g%20Pex%20Hill/4.JPG

save a few inches by clipping directly into the wire. Glad you enjoyed it, learning to solo aid was a fun way to spend a month with a finger injury! :D


jeremy11


Jul 4, 2008, 1:34 PM
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Re: [TheTeacher] 1st solo aid attempt [In reply to]
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Nice work! Isn't solo aid fun?

TheTeacher wrote:
I've found myself talking to myself (Smegol style) "Get down there and clean the pitch! I lead this thing, now you clean it! I'm not leading till you do!" When I realize its just me, normaly I'd feel embarased, yet its just me on pitch 5 and I'm the only one on the wall on a tuesday.

Reminds me of that Gollum rock climbing pic a while back... now someone should do a Gollum solo aid climbing pic.

anyone else do belay commands with themselves, for a reminder to double check systems?


northcave


Jul 4, 2008, 2:58 PM
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Re: [jeremy11] 1st solo aid attempt [In reply to]
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hmmm yeah you're right,,, i was singing 'she'll be coming round the mountain' in a kind of country western hip hop style. How odd.. i don't sing to myself when driving alone, having a shower or taking a dump.


moose_droppings


Jul 4, 2008, 4:08 PM
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Re: [northcave] 1st solo aid attempt [In reply to]
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Welcome to the dark side.
Just think of all the places you can go now without digging up a partner. Embrace the freedom.

Oh, and;
In reply to:
save a few inches by clipping directly into the wire
Ditto.
It is a journey of inches, gain em every chance you can.


morse8000


Jul 5, 2008, 9:39 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] 1st solo aid attempt [In reply to]
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This is a rhetorical question, hopefully for the benefit of the discussion:

Doesn't attaching a modified grigri to your chest harness ensure that the grigri WILL NOT catch an upside down fall?

All the more reason to have a back-up knot whichever way you decide to go.


sungam


Jul 6, 2008, 9:38 AM
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morse8000 wrote:
Doesn't attaching a modified grigri to your chest harness ensure that the grigri WILL NOT catch an upside down fall?o.
yep. Earlier dude was wrong.


russwalling


Jul 6, 2008, 9:52 AM
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Re: [sungam] 1st solo aid attempt [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
morse8000 wrote:
Doesn't attaching a modified grigri to your chest harness ensure that the grigri WILL NOT catch an upside down fall?o.
yep. Earlier dude was wrong.

The attachment to a chest harness is to make the grigri (modified) feed easier while free climbing. The key to the whole deal is the attachment to the chest harness must be able to disengage during a fall, and especially one that is inverted, in order to catch the meatbomb safely. A small velcro strap/loop to keep the grigri attached to the chest harness works pretty good.

For aid climbing where there is minimal to no free climbing, a regular grigri used in the normal manner will suit you well.


whiskeykid


Jul 6, 2008, 7:45 PM
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morse8000 wrote:
Doesn't attaching a modified grigri to your chest harness ensure that the grigri WILL NOT catch an upside down fall?

Oop, you're right. My bad.

The gri-gri modification for soloing is to ease the feed of the rope through the device, not to allow the gri-gri to catch an inverted fall.

I stand, once again, corrected...


sungam


Jul 7, 2008, 6:26 AM
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Re: [russwalling] 1st solo aid attempt [In reply to]
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[quote "A small velcro strap/loop to keep the grigri attached to the chest harness works pretty good./quote]
Try saying that after climbing anything over 50' with the rig. the velcro will never hold.


russwalling


Jul 7, 2008, 11:01 AM
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sungam wrote:
[quote "A small velcro strap/loop to keep the grigri attached to the chest harness works pretty good./quote]
Try saying that after climbing anything over 50' with the rig. the velcro will never hold.

huh? done miles like that. What are you trying to say?


stymingersfink


Jul 7, 2008, 1:40 PM
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russwalling wrote:
sungam wrote:
russ wrote:
A small velcro strap/loop to keep the grigri attached to the chest harness works pretty good.
Try saying that after climbing anything over 50' with the rig. the velcro will never hold.

huh? done miles like that. What are you trying to say?
yes, he has. What were you trying to say there HaggisDonny?


edited to fix someone's cheesetits


(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Jul 7, 2008, 1:41 PM)


sungam


Jul 7, 2008, 3:26 PM
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stymingersfink wrote:
russwalling wrote:
sungam wrote:
russ wrote:
A small velcro strap/loop to keep the grigri attached to the chest harness works pretty good.
Try saying that after climbing anything over 50' with the rig. the velcro will never hold.

huh? done miles like that. What are you trying to say?
yes, he has. What were you trying to say there HaggisDonny?


edited to fix someone's cheesetits
Maybe my rope is too fat, but after 50 feet or so I start getting enough drag to uncrack any amount of velcro (within reason).
Can't afford another rope :P


stymingersfink


Jul 7, 2008, 4:00 PM
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Re: [sungam] 1st solo aid attempt [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
stymingersfink wrote:
russwalling wrote:
sungam wrote:
russ wrote:
A small velcro strap/loop to keep the grigri attached to the chest harness works pretty good.
Try saying that after climbing anything over 50' with the rig. the velcro will never hold.

huh? done miles like that. What are you trying to say?
yes, he has. What were you trying to say there HaggisDonny?


edited to fix someone's cheesetits
Maybe my rope is too fat, but after 50 feet or so I start getting enough drag to uncrack any amount of velcro (within reason).
Can't afford another rope :P
yer not doin' somethi' right then. we are talkin' about aid climbing here,right?


sungam


Jul 8, 2008, 4:19 AM
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nopo, free. this is on TRS, btw.


sungam


Jul 8, 2008, 6:47 AM
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russwalling wrote:
sungam wrote:
[quote "A small velcro strap/loop to keep the grigri attached to the chest harness works pretty good./quote]
Try saying that after climbing anything over 50' with the rig. the velcro will never hold.

huh? done miles like that. What are you trying to say?
I guess what I'm trying to say is I forgot it was an aid solo thread, and I started blabbing about TRS for free climbing.


russwalling


Jul 8, 2008, 10:00 AM
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Re: [sungam] 1st solo aid attempt [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
russwalling wrote:
sungam wrote:
[quote "A small velcro strap/loop to keep the grigri attached to the chest harness works pretty good./quote]
Try saying that after climbing anything over 50' with the rig. the velcro will never hold.

huh? done miles like that. What are you trying to say?
I guess what I'm trying to say is I forgot it was an aid solo thread, and I started blabbing about TRS for free climbing.

Huh? I guess we just ain't connecting. What is a TRS? And my velcro thing WAS about free climbing. anyway... carry on as I'm fully confused now.


Tree_wrangler


Jul 8, 2008, 10:30 AM
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In reply to:
What is a TRS?

My guess is "Top Rope Solo"?

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