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kampfwespe
Jul 10, 2008, 4:18 AM
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Hi, I'm going to visit my parents in a couple of months and stay in Rochester for 6 months. While the weather is nice outside, I was wondering if there's outdoor sport climbing nearby? I've been climbing for 5 months (been living in Austria and started climbing there) and have red-pointed 5.10a's so would like to keep that up and get better... I've looked up the Gunks and it's all trad climbing which I've never done, have no experience with. Basically I'm looking for bolted routes...
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chossmonkey
Jul 10, 2008, 5:17 AM
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kampfwespe wrote: Basically I'm looking for bolted routes...
The closest is probably on the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario.
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morlebeke
Jul 10, 2008, 5:29 AM
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and the sport in the Milton area of the niagara escarpment is limited and needs gardening. I'm not a fan of the area, it's 3 hours for me and I'll take the 10 hours to the gunks any weekend. you'd be best off sucking up for the drive to the New in WV, imo
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granite_grrl
Jul 10, 2008, 6:08 AM
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morlebeke wrote: and the sport in the Milton area of the niagara escarpment is limited and needs gardening. I'm not a fan of the area, it's 3 hours for me and I'll take the 10 hours to the gunks any weekend. you'd be best off sucking up for the drive to the New in WV, imo
Gardening, new bolts and cleaning of some loose rock. Bleh.
Yes, either suck it up and pick up a rack (mmmm, gunks....) or head to the New.
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morlebeke
Jul 10, 2008, 6:39 AM
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loose rock indeed, thought of mentioning that but figured it's more of a trad issue. I don't know many canadian climbers, but know of 2 incidents around milton of gear pulling rock down on unfortunate (and perhaps non-discerning) trad leaders and their belayers.
I won't lead in the milton area anymore, as what looks like ample opportunity from the ground quickly turns to 30 foot runouts looking for quality rock. I wasn't there, but I suspect the incidents I've heard of were a result of people deciding a placement in bad rock is better than no placement, but I'd rather fall alone if I fall.
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bdbc
Jul 10, 2008, 7:19 PM
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well first off, be prepaired for climbing into mid november maybe, then miserable cold and rain until march. but, if you can deal with all that, there are a few bolted routes in a place called little falls, some 11's 10's but not too much (that i've seen) i go to school out there, so if your interested in a partner, gimme a pm! (and nemo is slick as glass too i'm told!)
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chossmonkey
Jul 11, 2008, 4:06 AM
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bdbc wrote: (and nemo is slick as glass too i'm told!)
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kampfwespe
Jul 11, 2008, 5:13 AM
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granite_grrl wrote: Yes, either suck it up and pick up a rack (mmmm, gunks....) or head to the New.
The New? I'm sorry, I'm not familiar at all with the names, although I am learning a lot from this website about what's available (thank you everyone!)
[It's funny, I'm from Rochester and lived in San Francisco/San Diego but never, ever rock climbed in the States. I've never climbed Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Bishop, Rumney, Gunks, etc. People in Austria always ask me about those places and I'm like, Duhhhh.... don't have beta, duhhh....]
I've seen Little Falls suggested before, so will look that up. Loose rock? Yeah, bleh, not so fun.
It's not that I'm against trad, it's just that I know zilch about the gear, gear placement, etc. And, of course, since I just started, I'm terrified. But for my September visit, I'm willing to borrow my boyfriend's rack if he lets me (he is not coming to the States in Sept.) and meet up with a Gunks climber to learn.
Thank you for responding, and keep on throwing out tidbits of info, because I know NOTHING about New York State rock climbing. And I'm also looking for chill climbing partners who don't mind introducing me to trad. But I'll probably be only climbing at 5.8/5.9 until I get comfortable with the gear... :-)
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chossmonkey
Jul 11, 2008, 5:29 AM
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kampfwespe wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Yes, either suck it up and pick up a rack (mmmm, gunks....) or head to the New. The New? I'm sorry, I'm not familiar at all with the names,
Rumney, NH might be closer. And not as hot in the summer.
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bdbc
Jul 11, 2008, 9:14 AM
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In reply to: Rumney, NH might be closer. And not as hot in the summer.
rumney is about 7.5 hours, from rochester, but stays pretty reasonable in the summer (ie now its pretty good) NRG is 8 hours, so its a haul either way, but if you can afford the gas you've got some options
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