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alpinethrills
Jul 14, 2008, 12:32 PM
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My climbing has been limited to the gunks, where I lead 5.8+ trad and can second harder climbs, of course. I'd lead harder stuff on sport. I am flying to NM (either Albuquerque or Colorado Springs) in August and meeting my brother (same level climber) in Cimarron (near Philmont, approx. halfway between Albuquerque and CO Springs) for 7-10 days of climbing. I'll be renting a car, and I don't mind driving a fair distance, but I'm looking for the best trad/sport climbing without excessive amounts of driving. I definitely want to do Enchanted Tower area some, but I'm having difficulty figuring out what other highlights I want (is La Cueva Canyon good? Questra Dome?) . I figure I want to climb some in CO (Shelf? Garden of the Gods?), but uncertain where. I'm looking for any and all of: awesome features, high exposure, beautiful areas, multi-pitch (much prefer multi-pitch, unless it's a tower or something), and I would like to get to at least one spot with a longer route, maybe 500'+. Appreciate the info.
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durangoclimber
Jul 14, 2008, 12:53 PM
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Shelf is good. The Garden is good for a rest day (ie: little approach).
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shockabuku
Jul 14, 2008, 5:22 PM
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alpinethrills wrote: My climbing has been limited to the gunks, where I lead 5.8+ trad and can second harder climbs, of course. I'd lead harder stuff on sport. I am flying to NM (either Albuquerque or Colorado Springs)
So you know that Colorado Springs is in Colorado, right? Albuquerque is closer and an easier drive to Cimarron.
alpinethrills wrote: in August and meeting my brother (same level climber) in Cimarron (near Philmont, approx. halfway between Albuquerque and CO Springs) for 7-10 days of climbing. I'll be renting a car, and I don't mind driving a fair distance, but I'm looking for the best trad/sport climbing without excessive amounts of driving. I definitely want to do Enchanted Tower area some
The Enchanted Tower is probably a 5-6 hr drive from the Cimarron area; distances out here can be a little surprising if you're from the east.
alpinethrills wrote: , but I'm having difficulty figuring out what other highlights I want (is La Cueva Canyon good? Questra Dome?) . I figure I want to climb some in CO (Shelf? Garden of the Gods?), but uncertain where. I'm looking for any and all of: awesome features, high exposure, beautiful areas, multi-pitch (much prefer multi-pitch, unless it's a tower or something), and I would like to get to at least one spot with a longer route, maybe 500'+. Appreciate the info.
Las Conchas is a nice little sport area not too far from Los Alamos. Penitente Canyon is in southern central Colorado. Tres Piedras (north central NM) has some nice slab trad climbs. The Sandias have some great trad routes though the approaches kind of suck. The non-mountainous areas of NM are going to be HOT then and you should check for closed areas due to fire hazards (esp. the Sandias).
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alpinethrills
Jul 15, 2008, 7:57 PM
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I am aware that CO Springs is in CO, lol. Since the first part of my trip will be picking up my brother, who is I think just slightly closer to CO Springs than Albuquerque, I was thinking of flying there.
The routes database says there are 1,000 foot walls in the Land of Enchantment area. Any info on these?
Any spots in nothern NM or southern CO specifically good for really hot weather?
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shockabuku
Jul 15, 2008, 8:30 PM
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If the Sandias are open that's probably your best bet in northern NM for hot weather multi-pitch trad climbing. Las Conchas is pretty high in elevation and has a creek running through the area and a good amount of trees; it's kind of small and single pitch sport.
I can't really say much for Southern CO but I have been to the Independence Pass area and it's relatively cool/high altitude.
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sonso45
Jul 19, 2008, 2:34 PM
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I see you lead 5.8. The enchanted tower may be a bit much for you. Especially after the long drive. Tres Piedras has fine moderates. El Rito has sport and multi-pitch trad in your range. It is northerly enough to be cool. Questa Dome is cool also but maybe out of your league. Your profile doesn't lend itself to understanding your experience level so I hesitate recommending anything else.
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redneck
Jul 19, 2008, 5:28 PM
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the cowboy boot crack is a good 5.10 in garden of the goods red spire is a 5.8 and practice slab is a 5.6 all are off of the main parking lot at the entrance practice slab is a top rope
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billl7
Jul 19, 2008, 7:01 PM
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The Sandias are likely to remain open for the rest of the season now that the 'monsoons' are here. Consequently, if you do climb in the Sandias plan on being done by mid-afternoon. You might get more in on a given day but maybe not. That said, for circa 5.8 multi-pitch trad I'd recommend:
Estrellita (1 pitch), Estrellita (which can be linked with ...)
Miss Piggy (2 p), Hole in the Wall
Seventh Sojourn (4 p), The Watch Tower
Waterstains (4 p), The Pulpit
Cave Route (4 p), The Pulpit
Cracula (2 p), Techweeney Buttress
Revenge of the Elderly (3+p), Lower La Cueva
That's a mix anyway from 5.7 to 5.9 which I thought were pretty good. There's more I have not hit. Approach is longest to The Pulpit (~2 hours), much shorter on some of the others. Also, Second Coming (4 p) on Muralla Grande is very good but route finding can be a challenge. More generally, I'd recommend going high in the Sandias this time of year (e.g., Lower La Cueva is low and can be hot!).
I don't know much about climbing in Colorado but have been to Eleven Mile Canyon (South Platte area) three years in a row. I've enjoyed that area much for its moderate trad and very beautiful setting - campgrounds have reservable sites which is a good thing to do if arriving on a weekend. Very short approaches too. Can take a dip in the river at the end of the day. There's potable water too but I usually bring my own.
Bill L
Edit: The trad area at El Rito can be HOT in the summer.
(This post was edited by billl7 on Jul 19, 2008, 9:03 PM)
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alpinethrills
Jul 20, 2008, 12:31 PM
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Thanks, everyone. My brother and I climb at the same level (basically identically), and he tried Enchanted Tower one day (5.11 I believe he said) and assured me he can make it up. He's succeeded on a couple 5.10s. I think the grades may be a bit easier in at least some areas of NM than in the gunks, from what he has told me, and I'll lead higher sport grades than trad anyway. The higher areas of the mountains sound very sweet. I'll probably buy a guide book before I head out (maybe Falcon's Guide to NM?).
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shockabuku
Jul 23, 2008, 9:17 AM
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The Enchanted Tower is a sport area with mostly short routes except for a few on the "Tower" itself which go at pretty steep grades but are basically single pitch.
I just got back from two days at Las Conchas and a day at El Rito. It was beautiful and relatively cool at Las Conchas, a little hotter at El Rito but there's been plenty of cloud cover lately (and early afternoon thunderstorms too). There's enough climbing for a couple of days at each area.
Camping "near" El Rito out on ?County Road? 110 is really nice right along the river/creek with pit toilets, fire rings, picnic tables and plenty of wood around for campfires. Or you can camp right near the climbing area but not dedicated sites.
Midweek you can probably get camping at Jemez Falls near Las Conchas with pit toilets and water but the weekend was shut out unless you get there early.
Southern Colorado has been hot lately so I'd definitely target the higher elevations near water and shade.
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karlita
Jul 23, 2008, 10:04 AM
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I'm not sure if you're concerned with price but flying into DIA is way cheaper than CO Springs typically, great access to rent-a-cars and only a little over an hour to CO Springs.
I HIGHLY suggest Shelf, it's beautiful and you can chase the shade and get a lot of long sport routes in. Additionally it's only like 1.5 hours from CO Springs. Plus the camping is great and it's beautiful out there, just pick up a guide book in the springs and head down towards Canon City.
I miss CO! Hope you have a great trip! mmmmmmm Limestone-pockety-goodness.
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alpinethrills
Jul 24, 2008, 10:09 AM
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thanks, sounds sweet. Price does matter for me, and I looked at DIA. I need to fly AA because I have money with them, and leaving from either of the two airports near me that are convenient (Albany or Newark), COS is cheaper than DIA and even ABQ.
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