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maltek


Oct 17, 2001, 7:01 AM
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Roof!
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Hi All,

I would like to know if you have any good trick and informations on how to go throught a roof.. I just start to do sport climbing on a gym with nice long roof, but it is very hard for me.

I got a hard time leaving one hand to clip my bolt, my feet can stand on the roof..

I feel like I am back to square one!
Thanks.

[ Ce Message a ÚtÚ ÚditÚ par: maltek le 2001-10-17 07:02 ]


krillen


Oct 17, 2001, 8:09 AM
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Keep your arms straight, and your feet up on the roof, don't let them hang down. The stamina will come, but youhave to keep working at it.


fiend


Oct 17, 2001, 10:05 AM
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Yeah, stay straight armed when clipping, stress your skeleton, rather than your muscles.
Also learn things like bicycles, where you toehook the same hold that your other foot is pushing on.

Climbing upsidedown is a whole new ballgame, it takes a while to get comfortable with the movements, but it comes with time.

Oh, and if you take, and are hanging in your harness trying to scope the moves behind you, make sure you look at the wall upsidedown or everthing will be backwards when you try to climb it


paulc


Oct 17, 2001, 10:11 AM
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Yeah, key roof moves include toe and heel hooks, another usefull trick related to keeping your feet closer to your body (not right next to your hands usually, just so that you are pulling down on the handholds) is to drop knee, yeah, that's right dropknee. It helps to keep your weight on your feet and on any overhanging terrain any weight that you can take off your arms is a good thing. Another thing that takes a bit of time to get used to is that if, or when depending on the route your feet cut loose don't lock your arms at 90 degrees. relax your bicepts(sp?) and just go to a hang and then in one motion swing your feet up again. The key is to use as little energy as possible for any given sequence, just like climbing the vert.

If I think of anything else usefull then I'll add it on.

Paul


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 17, 2001, 10:22 AM
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A good way to more weight on your feet is to arch your back, stomach in to the rock, shoulders out on straight arms.

Think about having all your weight hanging from just your hands, that's divided by two, add feet, divided by four. i.e. I weigh 180 lbs., if I'm hanging by hands, 90 lbs. per hand, if I use feet, 45 lbs per hand and foot.

When you arch your back inward, you focus much more energy onto your feet, just like keeping your hips in on vertical wal.


rrrADAM


paulc


Oct 17, 2001, 10:29 AM
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Just remember to protect your lower back when you arch.

Paul


maltek


Oct 17, 2001, 12:55 PM
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Git a hint by someone who told me to rotate to the shoulder that will hang to the wall while releasing the other hand for clipping.. Is it something that you are doing.


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 17, 2001, 1:47 PM
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Sounds like you're talking about a 'twist lock'.


maltek


Oct 17, 2001, 1:57 PM
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Is it good to do it (re. Twist Lock)


paulc


Oct 17, 2001, 2:00 PM
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Every situation is different, sometimes that works, sometimes that doesn't. Usefull trick to have in your bag though.

I don't usually use that particular move on roofs, mainly on vertical to slightly overhanging. That doesn't mean that you will not use it at all though.

Paul


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 18, 2001, 9:14 PM
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A twist lock will alow you to: extend your reach, reach holds statically, & conserve energy.


compclimber


Oct 18, 2001, 9:48 PM
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 All of you are talking about footwork but lets not forget the root of footwork on an angle like a roof....you need to do alot of abdominal muscle work, hang from a pullup bar and raise your legs up to your waist. Do 3-4 sets of 20 reps and you will be able to use your feet like never before imagined.


fiend


Oct 18, 2001, 10:32 PM
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I got on the 30ft roof at the gym today.

It's been a long time.


My back hurts.


paulc


Oct 19, 2001, 9:42 AM
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Did I say "protect your back"?? I thought I did, too bad about your back, ibi and ice?

I love roof climbing it is much fun.

Paul


jds100


Oct 19, 2001, 11:57 AM
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If you can climb effectively on overhanging walls and crags, try to envision the same general techniques of drop-knee, straight arm, hip turns, back step, etc. etc., being used on an even more over-hanging route. It's not exactly the same, but the similarities could probably be a good place to start conceptually, rather than feeling like it's a totally new thing.


compclimber


Oct 19, 2001, 2:40 PM
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 To touch on what I talked about in the previous page here is a link to Abdominal training for climbing specific muscles.

http://www.webcrag.com/climbing_injuries3.html


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