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spikeddem
Jul 30, 2008, 10:22 PM
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After reading the thread about the definition of onsighting, I decided to throw in "flash" in the title.
I found this "Plus Birkett recounts how he made the hardest traditional ‘on-sight’ ascent in the world at Dove Crag: the aptly-named 'Fear of Failure' (E8 6c)." from a description of Set in Stone, and I was wondering if it was still accurate.
Note: I'm looking for a climb that was done without beta on protection or moves (other than chalk). So, kind of a hybrid of onsight and flash. Basically, "What is the scariest frickin' climb done on trad?
(This post was edited by spikeddem on Jul 30, 2008, 10:32 PM)
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sungam
Jul 30, 2008, 11:25 PM
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That is, as far as I know, the one.
Harder routes have been done but birkett is a master.
I believe others have onsighted E7, include the tarten terror, mclure and possible JP.
Dunno abut the US scene, though.
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spikeddem
Jul 30, 2008, 11:44 PM
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sungam wrote: That is, as far as I know, the one. Harder routes have been done but birkett is a master. I believe others have onsighted E7, include the tarten terror, mclure and possible JP. Dunno abut the US scene, though.
So my E9 onsight is good? 
Just kidding, thanks for the confirmation!
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getout87
Jul 31, 2008, 2:50 PM
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sungam wrote: That is, as far as I know, the one. Harder routes have been done but birkett is a master. I believe others have onsighted E7, include the tarten terror, mclure and possible JP. Dunno abut the US scene, though.
i wish my balls were a 1/4 the size of theirs.
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sungam
Jul 31, 2008, 4:44 PM
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After ranting about how he won't be ready to lead it this year, Tarten Terror just lead Echo wall- a route where a fall from the upper crux would result in death, and from the lower crux would just be broken legs. -.- I'll stick to my hvs's
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getout87
Jul 31, 2008, 5:13 PM
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sungam wrote: After ranting about how he won't be ready to lead it this year, Tarten Terror just lead Echo wall- a route where a fall from the upper crux would result in death, and from the lower crux would just be broken legs. -.- I'll stick to my hvs's
so whats the protection rating on that, like X/X/X?
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sungam
Jul 31, 2008, 11:35 PM
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the numbers 12 and 8c+/9a were muttered.
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btreanor
Aug 1, 2008, 12:06 AM
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sungam wrote: the numbers 12 and 8c+/9a were muttered.
Although he did call it "the hardest thing he has ever done,"my understanding, from reading Dave's blog, was that Echo Wall was technically easier than Rhapsody, which means that 8c+/9a would be a real exaggeration. The route is, however, much more serious than Rhapsody, so maybe 12?
Maybe I misread the blog entry? I did read through pretty quick.
Brian
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sungam
Aug 1, 2008, 12:08 AM
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he said it would be like soloing 8c+, so he solo'd 8c+, and he said to be sure you coul climb it, climb 9a (so the 8c+ felt easier) so he did that, too.
meh.
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btreanor
Aug 1, 2008, 12:19 AM
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From Climbing (not from Dave, so take it with a grain of salt!):
Earlier, MacLeod described Echo Wall as scary 8a+ (5.13c) to a rest at a roof, followed by 8b (5.13d) climbing. “But the problem is that it will be sick hard to stop and place the protection in the roof, especially the most crucial two wires,” MacLeod wrote at his blog. “So, overall, linking plus placing the gear is looking physically harder than Rhapsody.”
MacLeod completed the first ascent of Rhapsody (E11 7a) in 2006 at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland. Sonnie Trotter and Steve McClure repeated the climb this summer, and both men said the climb was the equivalent of 5.14b/c R.
The Echo Wall is more dangerous than Rhapsody. Although the 30-foot crux passage is relatively well protected by gear at the roof below, a second crux (which MacLeod previously described as 5.13c on little edges) has only an RP in a finger-width flake and a skyhook for protection. If a fall ripped this gear, the climber would likely hit the slab below the aręte from 65 feet up.
Brian
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getout87
Aug 1, 2008, 12:47 AM
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sungam wrote: he said it would be like soloing 8c+, so he solo'd 8c+, and he said to be sure you coul climb it, climb 9a (so the 8c+ felt easier) so he did that, too. meh.
::shudder::
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quiteatingmysteak
Aug 1, 2008, 3:15 AM
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spikeddem wrote: After reading the thread about the definition of onsighting, I decided to throw in "flash" in the title. I found this "Plus Birkett recounts how he made the hardest traditional ‘on-sight’ ascent in the world at Dove Crag: the aptly-named 'Fear of Failure' (E8 6c)." from a description of Set in Stone, and I was wondering if it was still accurate. Note: I'm looking for a climb that was done without beta on protection or moves (other than chalk). So, kind of a hybrid of onsight and flash. Basically, "What is the scariest frickin' climb done on trad?
While not the scariest, Croft onsighted 2 13+'s in squamish when 13d/14a was the upper echelon.
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