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dhorgan
Aug 2, 2008, 1:53 PM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2007
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Hi:
I was talking to some folks in Moab last fall who said that there was a new moderate sport area at City of Rocks. He said that the place that had been having access issues for years and now the access issues had been resolved and there were a lot new and easy sport routes recently put up. Any thoughts on the identity of this place?
Thanks,
David
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Pliny
Aug 22, 2008, 2:40 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2007
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kovacs69
Aug 22, 2008, 2:51 PM
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When I was up there last year they had opened up Castle Rock state park. I don't know if this is what you are referring to but there were some nice moderate sport routes.
JB
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dhorgan
Sep 10, 2008, 11:37 AM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2007
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Yep! Castle Rock was indeed the place. Thanks for the reply. We only did a few routes, but they were pretty good and generally quite well-protected, all on the main Castle Rock formation. I did get the impression that some of the routes had been placed by folks who were a little new to the art of route-setting. It seemed pretty common for the bolts to get closer together as the ground got EASIER rather than harder. One route we did had the first bolt reachable from the ground (aka "useless"), while the next clip had you solidly in groundfall territory during the clip. And in one spot there was a bolt that was both a very awkward clip and totally unnecessary (on 4th class ground about 8 feet from the anchor), which is not that easy to arrange! We bought the guide for Castle Rocks at the Tracy General Store in Almo, and it worked fine.
So anyway, some goofy bolts but lots of them, and very nice rock and surroundings. We were there on two weekdays in August (important to seek shade, which is very doable, heat was no big deal in the shade) and on both days we had the place pretty much to ourselves and really enjoyed the climbing.
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