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mshore
Nov 4, 2002, 1:47 PM
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Does anyone have information on who placed the bolts at both the upper cliffs and the lower slabs in the last two weeks?
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veilneb
Nov 4, 2002, 2:47 PM
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Were these placed at Pawtuckaway?
V
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pharmboy
Nov 4, 2002, 2:55 PM
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You've got to be kidding me. I'm not anti-bolting.... but at Pawtuckaway and especially on upper and lower!?!?!??! WTF!
Maybe over at Devils Den... which has seen a few bolts...but there, wow!
I was there two weeks ago and there were no bolts then. I wonder what the park service would have to say about this...
I can't imagine that those bolts will have a long life expectancy.... cut, cut, cut...
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pharmboy
Nov 5, 2002, 1:51 PM
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Well... I can neither confirm nor deny those allegations! I did NOT chop those bolts... at Pawtuckaway. (in my best Bill Clinton voice)... Sad to hear that it was a crappy job though.
Hey, did you see a #2 cam stuck in a crack on Lower Slabs?
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boduke
Nov 5, 2002, 2:50 PM
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These bolts probably were not authorized but did anyone contact the park to see what their opinion on the situation was? Or at least notify them of what is going on? I think the park should know and would probably like to help out before a full blown bolt war starts. I think it will reflect better on the community if communication is open. And who is the Access Fund rep for this region. That person should be invovled asap.
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jbrd528
Nov 5, 2002, 5:42 PM
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I currently am attending UNH, but I did not place the bolts. I have been asking several climbers that i know who have been climbing there recently and they all don't know who did it. I know that there was group (not sure who ran it) that was out there a couple of weekends ago. I will continue to try to find out if it was some one at UNH. It is trully a shame though.
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jmlangford
Nov 5, 2002, 6:04 PM
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If people are going to chop...they need to do it right or the rock ends up looking worse than if the bolts were left there. recently a sandstone sport/top rope area was completely chopped where I climb locally. there was no reason to chop as trad is not possible and there is no place for TR set-ups. I have replaced the TR bolts but I have also spent 3 weekends rapping down the face and cleaning up the mess the chopper left. mangled metal and huge scars on the rock. I don't know how much epoxy and grit from the bottom of the cliff I mixed for patching but it was a lot! They boogered up the spots for the bolt placements so bad on the face that I am just going to leave it as a TR area for now and not rebolt the few sport climbs.
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jumaringjeff
Nov 5, 2002, 6:19 PM
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I doubt whomever placed the bolts will admit to it...
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pharmboy
Nov 5, 2002, 11:07 PM
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Wow dude... that's pretty lame.
Got an idea for ya though. Rather than bore the hell out of the good peeps here, why don't you send me a pm. We'll set up a time to meet and I'll put your drill to good use.
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paintinhaler
Nov 5, 2002, 11:33 PM
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"If people are going to chop...they need to do it right or the rock ends up looking worse than if the bolts were left there." jmlangford
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jbrd528
Nov 6, 2002, 12:27 AM
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I am with Pharmboy on this one.
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mtnjohn
Nov 6, 2002, 12:43 AM
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Somebody who lives near madbolter needs to hurt him, badly
What an ass
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therealdeal
Nov 6, 2002, 1:25 AM
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Yeah, I'm a total sport fag and I still think madbolter is an idiot.
If anchors truly needed to be placed to make it safer, ie. if the trees were near failure, it probably wouldn't be too hard to come up with some sort of consensus about well placed hardwear.
Maybe that's dreaming. Anyway the guy sounds like he's tripping.
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jbrd528
Nov 6, 2002, 2:30 AM
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Madbolter: I want to ask you why you need to put bolt at the top of Fantastic Face. It is a 5.10 climb, how many people do you know who pay to have someone take them climbing can really climb a 5.10. If a person is climbing 5.10 then they probalby have the ability to set up a top rope using trees as anchors. There is no need for bolts on the top of this or any climb on the lower slabs, upper cliffs or lakeside crag. Anyway there are plenty of trees at the top of the upper cliffs to set up a top rope. All but a few trees are in good enought condition to top rope of off.
If you were placing bolt on the top of a 5.6 or 7 where the trees are in bad shape then I would say go ahead as long as it is done correctly. Pawtuckaway is know for its boldering and trad climbing, and what can't be done trad usually makes a great top rope problem. You should seriously think about what you are doing and the impact that it has on the climbing community around you.
[ This Message was edited by: jbrd528 on 2002-11-05 18:31 ]
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alexinmilton
Nov 6, 2002, 2:57 AM
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Ok, (I don't really want to get in the middle of this. But...)
What's the problem with two bolts as TR anchors even if tree's are available?
From what I understand the 3 popular crags around here are having TR anchors bolted to every sport route (in time at least). The idea behind this is that it will protect the trees (ancient cedars) and still provide SAFE (and quick) anchors. By 'protecting' the trees we are making climbers look responsible and ensuring access remains open.
These crags are on conservation land. I could understand a land owner seeing bolts as an eye-sore, but a park official should see the value in protecting the trees.
Climbing isn't for the immature so you guys should stop acting this way and find out what the land owner want. Cutting/Illegit bolts will do nothing but get your crag closed.
Alex
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pharmboy
Nov 7, 2002, 9:40 PM
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"your all queer sport fags"
And you're the one that loves to bolt. Look in the mirror loser!
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madbolternh
Nov 7, 2002, 9:44 PM
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pharmturd is pissed cause he clips the bolts i place
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gawd
Nov 7, 2002, 10:13 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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all bolts should be chopped slightenly and efficently...
there should be no dicussion...no one contacted me when they placed them....so i will do the same.....
and i do not return the litter to the criminals....i dispose of it in a waste recepticle.
save a rock, chop bolts!
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texastechclimber
Nov 7, 2002, 10:15 PM
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Why dont yall ask Madbolternh who put the bolts up. You might know him better as "The Troll Guy". Pharmboy knows who Im talkin about. Have you seen some of the stuff he likes to post. Judging by his name I guess he likes to bolt and according to him he hasnt been climbing for long. Also, just a guess, but what do you think the "nh" at the end of his name stands for? New Hampshire? I could be wrong about the guy but he sure seems like an ass.
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zombikev
Jul 17, 2004, 1:23 AM
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Bolts are fine by me....when no protection is available. I hate seeing a perfectly good trad route crushed by bolts. If the climb is un-do-able without bolts, i think it creates a lovely sport route, but at the same time i think every climber cringes when they look up and see a perfectly good crack retro-bolted because some climber is too lazy or lacks the skill to place their own gear.
As far as the bolts at the top go, i love them. It eliminates the mind-farts some newbies do to trees and such when they are first learning. Scarred trees = no access. The bolts, if they can be passed by those who do not like their eye sore, add safety and ease to top rope set up. For instance, QQ. There is nothing better than being able to quickly change the set up cause of the ease of access to the bolts at the top.
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