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ChainingDrawsFTW


Aug 18, 2008, 4:27 PM
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Best history of climbing book?
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Hey guys! I am new to cilmbing and am very much interested in the history of the sport. My posts so far haven't been met with much enthusiasm or even basic politeness, but I'm going to post this anyway...

What are some of the better books to buy detailing the history of climbing and an interesting narrative of its progression? Cool

Hank


sungam


Aug 18, 2008, 4:51 PM
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troll or not I'll bite.
Killing dragons by fergus fleming rocks. Listen to Lodavicu Einaudi's "I Giorni" whilst reading for the full effect :)
Also for some classic laughs with some classic oldskool scottish climbing chat check out "mountain days and bothy nights" kinda hard to get a cop of sometimes.


raymondjeffrey


Aug 18, 2008, 4:52 PM
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'Spirit of the Age' written by Pat Ament. It details the climbing achievements of Royal Robbins and how he helped shape our beloved sport.


dingus


Aug 18, 2008, 4:52 PM
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In suggested order:

Climbing in North America, Chris Jones

Wizards of Rock, A History of Free Climbing in America; Pat Ament

A History of Mountain Climbing; Roger Frison-Roche (Euro and mountaineering centric)

Killing Dragons - Fergus Flemming (dawn of climbing, Euro-centric)

Ways to the Sky; Andy Setlers; historical climbing guide to N American mountaineering

50 Classic Climbs of N America; Steck, Roper

DMT


sungam


Aug 18, 2008, 4:59 PM
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also, when 9not if0 dingus writes his book, read that, too.


skiclimb


Aug 24, 2008, 10:07 PM
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sungam wrote:
also, when 9not if0 dingus writes his book, read that, too.

Definately


patmay81


Aug 25, 2008, 1:14 PM
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I just finishedthe Burges Book of Lies. Its not exactly a history of climbing, but its an entertaining biography of the Burges twins progression from crag to mountaineering to Himalayan climbing. And in a way it offers more information (and way more entertainment) than a typical textbook history of climbing could.


boombewm


Aug 25, 2008, 2:24 PM
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If you want to save yourself a lot of time, money, relationships, pain, liver transplants--scare yourself stupid...I'd recommend "on the ridge between life and death" by David Roberts. Not so much historical fact I think you may be after, but you can learn about some of the crazy bastards (Roberts in particular) tearing ass up in Alaska: then notice the eerie similarities between him and yourself. One of the better books I've read I'd say.

I think history books to be a weee bit boring


tradrenn


Aug 31, 2008, 10:31 PM
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dingus wrote:
Wizards of Rock, A History of Free Climbing in America; Pat Ament
DMT

I read this book and all I can say is that this is the best book I read about history of climbing in US in last 6 years. I would recommend that book to anybody that would like to read up some more about rock climbing in the past.


curt


Sep 1, 2008, 1:38 PM
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tradrenn wrote:
dingus wrote:
Wizards of Rock, A History of Free Climbing in America; Pat Ament
DMT

I read this book and all I can say is that this is the best book I read about history of climbing in US in last 6 years. I would recommend that book to anybody that would like to read up some more about rock climbing in the past.

Yep, that's a great book--in spite of the fact that Ament gives me a couple of pages in it.

For the best world-wide history of bouldering (by far) go to:

http://www.johngill.net

Curt


tradrenn


Sep 1, 2008, 3:42 PM
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curt wrote:
tradrenn wrote:
dingus wrote:
Wizards of Rock, A History of Free Climbing in America; Pat Ament
DMT

I read this book and all I can say is that this is the best book I read about history of climbing in US in last 6 years. I would recommend that book to anybody that would like to read up some more about rock climbing in the past.

Yep, that's a great book--in spite of the fact that Ament gives me a couple of pages in it.

For the best world-wide history of bouldering (by far) go to:

http://www.johngill.net

Curt

I had a good laugh reading how you met John Stannard.


boo


Sep 2, 2008, 8:24 AM
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White Spider is one of my favs. Granted it's the history of one route.


duncanlennon


Sep 2, 2008, 8:37 AM
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Yankee Rock & Ice by Guy and Laura Waterman covers pioneering New England ascents dating back to 1910. Not much else though.


i_h8_choss


Sep 2, 2008, 8:54 AM
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Master of Stone by John Gill (& Pat Ament). Great history of bouldering and a tribute to the man - John Gill. Great read.


curt


Sep 4, 2008, 9:50 PM
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i_h8_choss wrote:
Master of Stone by John Gill (& Pat Ament). Great history of bouldering and a tribute to the man - John Gill. Great read.

Actually, it's Master of Rock by Pat Ament. And, as much as it may have detracted from the greater substance of the publication, I contributed to that book as well.

Curt


i_h8_choss


Sep 4, 2008, 9:54 PM
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im pretty sure its master of stone. i have the book on my bookshelf.


i_h8_choss


Sep 4, 2008, 9:58 PM
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my bad. its master of rock. the wine gets me confused. great read anywho...


Partner epoch
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Sep 24, 2008, 5:34 AM
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The Climbers: A History of Mountaineering
by Chris Bonington

It's a good read.


davidorchard


Sep 24, 2008, 6:46 AM
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Downward Bound by Warren Harding is a pretty lighthearted look at some of his accomplishments in Yosemite and one of my favorites.

Touching the Void is pretty awesome also and a quick read, but only about one epic climb by Joe Simpson.


(This post was edited by davidorchard on Sep 24, 2008, 6:48 AM)


Senate156


Sep 24, 2008, 7:41 AM
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big walls by paul piana


olderic


Sep 24, 2008, 8:01 AM
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Try some of the biographies/autobiographies by some of the historically significan't European climbers /alpinists - Bonnington, Whillans, Brown, Terray, Rebufat. Even though it is well over 50 years old "Conquistordors of the Useless" (Terray) is as good as it gets.


thatguyat99


Sep 24, 2008, 9:32 AM
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Downward Bound by Warren Harding is a pretty lighthearted look at some of his accomplishments in Yosemite and one of my favorites.
In reply to:

always have wanted to read that book...
also a good one is addicted to danger-jim whickwire


thatguyat99


Sep 24, 2008, 9:33 AM
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i did that backwards...what a dumb@$$ trying to do 4 things at once...


JustinMT


Oct 2, 2008, 8:41 PM
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A book I recently read that I thought was fairly good is American Rock : Region, Rock, and Culture in American Climbing by Don Mellor. It obviously is about the development and progression of the sport in the US, but devotes a fair amount of time to all regions of the country. Being a trad climber from Montana, I was interested to read about some of the traditional areas in the NE that I will have to visit someday. Hope you read this one and enjoy it!


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