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breaking into 5.13
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nfowler50


Aug 20, 2008, 8:48 PM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2008
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breaking into 5.13  (North_America: United_States: Arkansas: Buffalo_National_River: Horseshoe_Canyon_Ranch)
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Hey everyone, I'm looking for an easy 5.13... which i guess would make it 12+... at HCR. I just want to get my confidence up, break into 13's feeling real strong. If anyone knows of one, please let me know.


bender


Aug 20, 2008, 9:05 PM
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Re: [nfowler50] breaking into 5.13 [In reply to]
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well to keep pace with that kind of confidence your gonna need to make your first 13 a B or a C

no time for ironing out your weakness, your gonna have to pander to your strengths so, what aspect of climbing are you great at?

your looking for the climbs whos cruxes demand these skills, oh and at least make it a 12d you overrate

12+ is decidely a notch below and well outside the allowances given the up and coming average hardman in affecting the ratings hes unfarmiliar with

best wishes


(This post was edited by bender on Aug 20, 2008, 9:08 PM)


zeubanks


Aug 20, 2008, 9:28 PM
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Re: [nfowler50] breaking into 5.13 [In reply to]
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Unfortunately, there are very few routes 5.13 or harder at HCR. Envy in the Land of the Lost is given 5.13a in the guidebook, but I've heard 5.12d may be more appropriate. It's slightly overhanging and very thin. The only other 5.13a that I can think of off the top of my head is Roary Breaker just west of the Walls of Moria. That one looks like it has a low crux with much easier climbing above.
Neither of those routes is climbed often. If you want a better selection, there are numerous crags within 30 minutes of HCR that have higher quality routes at that grade. Send me a message if you want a more comprehensive list of 5.13's in the area or if you need someone to show you around.


nfowler50


Aug 23, 2008, 11:32 AM
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Re: breaking into 5.13 [In reply to]
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my strengths would probably show more on overhanging routes, and a challenge in big moves rather than small holds, would envy or roary breaker meet that criteria by chance?


zeubanks


Aug 24, 2008, 12:08 PM
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Re: [nfowler50] breaking into 5.13 [In reply to]
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No- Envy is slightly overhanging, but the holds are tiny. Roary Breaker looks like it would have a thin crux section as well.


jeapord


Sep 3, 2008, 8:51 AM
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Re: [nfowler50] breaking into 5.13 [In reply to]
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Hey man,

I don't see why you are driving all the way to HCR when some of the best climbing in the world is 5 or 6 hours away. There's probably 300 5.13's in North Alabama, and that many more around Chattanooga.


debsanders


Sep 5, 2008, 4:44 PM
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Re: [nfowler50] breaking into 5.13 [In reply to]
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Try cradel of the deep on titanic boulder. It is a 13a and meets your criteria of overhang. It is a short problem with crimps - more like a boulder problem. My son did it several summers ago. His first 13.


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