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krosbakken


Aug 21, 2008, 9:04 PM
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aid climbing book
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What is a good aid climbing book? Im looking for a book that will teach me all about it, like gear, skills, something along those lines.

Thanks


stymingersfink


Aug 21, 2008, 9:12 PM
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Re: [krosbakken] aid climbing book [In reply to]
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krosbakken wrote:
What is a good aid climbing book? Im looking for a book that will teach me all about it, like gear, skills, something along those lines.

Thanks
well... some will recommend you read passthepitonspete's posts, but that someone will not be me.

Honestly? Your best bet is to have a strong trad-climbing skillset, what with placing gear, cleaning said gear, solid working understanding of rope techniques.

After that? Just follow someone up a big wall, cleaning and hauling the entire way. If you can hang tough enough to top out, consider your apprenticeship largely complete. Begin accumulating the gear you have discovered you are lacking.

After that, all you'll need to do is have the will and determination to get yourself to to the top of a very big wall.

Try to farm yourself out to someone who's considering soloing a wall. They'll appreciate the help of a hauler/cleaner, you'll benefit from the education you can't help but get from the experience. You'll get out of it exactly what you put into it... always be willing to do more than necessary, never say quit, if their personality conflicts with yours just deal with it quietly. Big Wall aid climbing is all about suffering, both mentally and physically. It's not for everyone, but damnit it sure is fun!


krosbakken


Aug 21, 2008, 9:16 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] aid climbing book [In reply to]
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Im looking for a name of a book but thanks for that post. but im still looking for a name, and im not saying im getting into aid I just kinda want to see what it is all about.


hacksaw


Aug 21, 2008, 9:17 PM
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Re: [krosbakken] aid climbing book [In reply to]
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krosbakken wrote:
What is a good aid climbing book? Im looking for a book that will teach me all about it, like gear, skills, something along those lines.

Thanks

Try and find a copy of Doug Scott's book BIG WALL CLIMBING. But, I have feeling is now sort of dated. I'm sure there are newer aid climbing books out there......

HM


stymingersfink


Aug 21, 2008, 9:18 PM
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Re: [krosbakken] aid climbing book [In reply to]
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krosbakken wrote:
Im looking for a name of a book but thanks for that post. but im still looking for a name, and im not saying im getting into aid I just kinda want to see what it is all about.
Big Walls. Has Xavier Bongard on the cover.



edit to add amazon link and cover shot.


(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Aug 21, 2008, 9:21 PM)


stymingersfink


Aug 21, 2008, 9:20 PM
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Re: [krosbakken] aid climbing book [In reply to]
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krosbakken wrote:
Im looking for a name of a book but thanks for that post. but im still looking for a name, and im not saying im getting into aid I just kinda want to see what it is all about.
start here:

http://www.bigwalls.net/

IIRC, Middendorf is the author of the book I mentioned already. He was/is a bigwall God.


stymingersfink


Aug 21, 2008, 9:25 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] aid climbing book [In reply to]
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stymingersfink wrote:
krosbakken wrote:
Im looking for a name of a book but thanks for that post. but im still looking for a name, and im not saying im getting into aid I just kinda want to see what it is all about.
Big Walls. Has Xavier Bongard on the cover.



edit to add amazon link and cover shot.
Actually, I find that the cover shot has changed on the more recent additions. This should show you what the book currently looks like, and give you a peek inside.


Partner gunksgoer


Aug 21, 2008, 10:27 PM
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Re: [krosbakken] aid climbing book [In reply to]
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Heres a start:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aid_climbing


(This post was edited by gunksgoer on Aug 21, 2008, 10:27 PM)


fatoomchk


Aug 22, 2008, 2:11 AM
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Re: [stymingersfink] aid climbing book [In reply to]
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I read the Middendorf/Long book about 10 or 12 years ago. I thought it was a good introduction. Unless a new addition includes it, at the time there were a few newer widgets that were not included in the book (cam hooks, aliens etc). It doesn't cover some really basic stuff too - like "thumbing" your aiders.

It has all the basics though, so is a good spot to start.

Although, as an earlier poster mentioned, there is nothing like climbing with an experienced aider. I learned more in one 24 hour climb with an experienced aid climber than I did in 2 years bumbling around by myself.


stymingersfink


Aug 22, 2008, 7:10 AM
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Re: [fatoomchk] aid climbing book [In reply to]
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fatoomchk wrote:
I read the Middendorf/Long book about 10 or 12 years ago. I thought it was a good introduction. Unless a new addition includes it, at the time there were a few newer widgets that were not included in the book (cam hooks, aliens etc). It doesn't cover some really basic stuff too - like "thumbing" your aiders.

It has all the basics though, so is a good spot to start.

Although, as an earlier poster mentioned, there is nothing like climbing with an experienced aider. I learned more in one 24 hour climb with an experienced aid climber than I did in 2 years bumbling around by myself.
yes... my first time even thinking about aiding was a situation I described originally, for 7 days 6 nights on Lunar Eclipse.

Like stickin' a spike in my vein, I've been hooked ever since.


Partner holdplease2


Aug 22, 2008, 4:50 PM
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Re: [krosbakken] aid climbing book [In reply to]
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The absolutely most interesting and technical book is by Jared Ogden, and I am pretty sure I've read most of them. The book is called Elite Technique, I still read it and am still learning from it. It is probably also the most up-to-date book out there. New techniques and gear develop over time.

Also, check the FISH products web site for information on how to do stuff and posts on Supertopo.

I learned how to aid climb from reading PTPP's posts here combined with the "Big Walls" book, then went out and started climbing without a mentor. There is plenty of information online and in books to do that if you know just a bit about trad gear in the first place.

Hope this helps,

-Kate.


flamer


Aug 24, 2008, 11:12 AM
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holdplease2 wrote:
The absolutely most interesting and technical book is by Jared Ogden

Yep, that fucker gave away all the secrets!

Kate you're so smart! You're my hero!!!
Tongue

josh


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