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brownie710
Aug 22, 2008, 12:16 PM
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I am pasting below my question to and response from the UIAA regarding using dental floss to mark the middle of my rope. I know this is a highly debated topic on RC.com and thought it noteworthy.
Message: I have heard that "whipping" the middle of one's climbing rope with dental floss can be an effective and safe method of marking the middle. If one only runs the thread along the inside of the sheath, not the core,then wraps or "whips" the thread around the outside of the sheath is this considered non-damaging to the integrity of the rope? I appreciate your help. Thanks
Gratefully,
josh
UIAA Response:
I think it is certainly a solution that do not damage the rope, but I am sure that the thread will not stay very long . Anyway the best solution for marking the middle is to use a proper ink as specify by the manufacturer.
See the website of the different manufacturer. J-F CHARLET UIAA SAFETY COMMISSION PRESIDENT
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Gmburns2000
Aug 22, 2008, 2:10 PM
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While not surprising, it is a helpful response to see.
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sbaclimber
Aug 22, 2008, 2:34 PM
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Although it is good to have an official response, the helpfulness of it is rather limited.....
Not all rope manufatures make recommendations on their websites.
e.g.
From Sterling's site:
In reply to: So, again and as usual, you are the best judge of your own comfort level. If you have been marking your rope for years with a pen and have never had a problem, then use your own judgment to decide if the new UIAA stance is going to alter your opinion.
I couldn't find anything on the sites from Mammut, Beal, Edelrid, NE, or PMI recommending any particular method. Kind of strange in the case of Beal, seeing as they actually sell ink for marking ropes....
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justroberto
Aug 22, 2008, 3:07 PM
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Don't listen to that jerk; listen to this one:
When a problem comes along
You must whip it
Before the cream sits out too long
You must whip it
When something's going wrong
You must whip it
now whip it
into shape
shape it up
get straight
go forward
move ahead
try to detect it
it's not too late
to whip it
whip it good
Use unwaxed dental floss, and every third turn around the rope whip it through the sheath. The first time I tried it, I didn't do either of these and it made a silly mess. I did it correctly the second time around and it's lasted a lot longer than the factory-furnished center mark ever did.
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majid_sabet
Aug 22, 2008, 4:35 PM
Post #5 of 26
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Climber fell 35 feet while rappelling
After ranger Joe Jackson on Hachapi recreational park investigated the recent climbing accident, he discovered that Mike n00ber of Kansas used fine threads of dental floss to mark the mid section of his rope which eventually moved 35 feet off center.
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epoch
Moderator
Aug 22, 2008, 4:43 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: Climber fell 35 feet while rappelling After ranger Joe Jackson on Hachapi recreational park investigated the recent climbing accident, he discovered that Mike n00ber of Kansas used fine threads of dental floss to mark the mid section of his rope which eventually moved 35 feet off center.
Majid, you didn't read this, did you?
justroberto wrote: Use unwaxed dental floss, and every third turn around the rope whip it through the sheath. The first time I tried it, I didn't do either of these and it made a silly mess. I did it correctly the second time around and it's lasted a lot longer than the factory-furnished center mark ever did. |
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flipnfall
Aug 22, 2008, 4:50 PM
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Thanks for sharing.
GT
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swaghole
Aug 22, 2008, 5:00 PM
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brownie710 wrote: I am pasting below my question to and response from the UIAA regarding using dental floss to mark the middle of my rope. I know this is a highly debated topic on RC.com and thought it noteworthy. Message: I have heard that "whipping" the middle of one's climbing rope with dental floss can be an effective and safe method of marking the middle. If one only runs the thread along the inside of the sheath, not the core,then wraps or "whips" the thread around the outside of the sheath is this considered non-damaging to the integrity of the rope? I appreciate your help. Thanks Gratefully, josh UIAA Response: I think it is certainly a solution that do not damage the rope, but I am sure that the thread will not stay very long . Anyway the best solution for marking the middle is to use a proper ink as specify by the manufacturer. See the website of the different manufacturer. J-F CHARLET UIAA SAFETY COMMISSION PRESIDENT
For what it's worth, I've done this a number of times on a number of ropes and there was no apparent damage to the sheath. The floss would easily pass through belay device (grigri or atc). It also lasted for a long, but that depends on what type of rock you climb. I suspect that rough sandstone would rip the dental floss pretty quickly.
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skinner
Aug 22, 2008, 5:27 PM
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brownie710 wrote: ...use a proper ink as specify by the manufacturer...
Ya, I've never been able to find a "manufacturer specified ink" either.
Being an old trad-daddy from way back, it was a pretty standard thing to whip the middle and both ends of our ropes. We found the dental floss shredded to easily and switched to Dacron fly fishing line backing. I know that some people used just a single 4" strand of floss fed through the sheath, then they'd split the ends and loop half of it through the sheath and knot the two halves back together (if that makes any sense) to keep the floss from sliding out. It seemed to work quite well, and lasted long enough that I don't remember anyone ever having to replace it. It did look rather odd as the strands continued to separate over time, but certainly caught your eye as it always appeared like a bad fray in the rope from a distance.
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Chappy76
Aug 22, 2008, 5:27 PM
Post #10 of 26
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justroberto wrote: Don't listen to that jerk; listen to this one: When a problem comes along
You must whip it
Before the cream sits out too long
You must whip it
When something's going wrong
You must whip it
now whip it
into shape
shape it up
get straight
go forward
move ahead
try to detect it
it's not too late
to whip it
whip it good Dude, I just spit soda all over my keyboard! LMAO! I think I should wear one of those red hats the next time I climb.
(This post was edited by Chappy76 on Aug 22, 2008, 5:29 PM)
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dingus
Aug 22, 2008, 5:42 PM
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epoch wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Climber fell 35 feet while rappelling After ranger Joe Jackson on Hachapi recreational park investigated the recent climbing accident, he discovered that Mike n00ber of Kansas used fine threads of dental floss to mark the mid section of his rope which eventually moved 35 feet off center. Majid, you didn't read this, did you? justroberto wrote: Use unwaxed dental floss, and every third turn around the rope whip it through the sheath. Whether majid did or not, apparently the poor slob what rapped off the end of his rope DID NOT. I see no harm nor foul in Majid pointing out the potential consequences of this method. Personally I think the whole dental floss method is anal retentive beyond most reckoning. DMT
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AlexCV
Aug 22, 2008, 5:45 PM
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skinner wrote: Ya, I've never been able to find a "manufacturer specified ink" either.
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jt512
Aug 22, 2008, 5:57 PM
Post #13 of 26
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brownie710 wrote: I am pasting below my question to and response from the UIAA regarding using dental floss to mark the middle of my rope. I know this is a highly debated topic on RC.com and thought it noteworthy. Message: I have heard that "whipping" the middle of one's climbing rope with dental floss can be an effective and safe method of marking the middle. If one only runs the thread along the inside of the sheath, not the core,then wraps or "whips" the thread around the outside of the sheath is this considered non-damaging to the integrity of the rope? I appreciate your help. Thanks Gratefully, josh UIAA Response: I think it is certainly a solution that do not damage the rope, but I am sure that the thread will not stay very long . Anyway the best solution for marking the middle is to use a proper ink as specify by the manufacturer. See the website of the different manufacturer. J-F CHARLET UIAA SAFETY COMMISSION PRESIDENT
Did you ask them about using used dental floss? It would be more environmentally friendly, but would acids and other contaminants in the mouth damage the rope?
Jay
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justroberto
Aug 22, 2008, 6:36 PM
Post #14 of 26
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dingus wrote: Personally I think the whole dental floss method is anal retentive beyond most reckoning. DMT
Really? It takes maybe 10 minutes to do. I've also got a darker rope, so the whipping is easy to spot, and it's nice to just thread a rap station until you feel the center mark instead of having to watch out for it.
I think it's pretty fantastic, but to each his or her own.
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dingus
Aug 22, 2008, 6:46 PM
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justroberto wrote: dingus wrote: Personally I think the whole dental floss method is anal retentive beyond most reckoning. DMT Really? It takes maybe 10 minutes to do. I've also got a darker rope, so the whipping is easy to spot, and it's nice to just thread a rap station until you feel the center mark instead of having to watch out for it. I think it's pretty fantastic, but to each his or her own.
Cool.
Cheers!
DMT
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stymingersfink
Aug 22, 2008, 6:56 PM
Post #16 of 26
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skinner wrote: brownie710 wrote: ...use a proper ink as specify by the manufacturer... Ya, I've never been able to find a "manufacturer specified ink" either. Being an old trad-daddy from way back, it was a pretty standard thing to whip the middle and both ends of our ropes. We found the dental floss shredded to easily and switched to Dacron fly fishing line backing. I know that some people used just a single 4" strand of floss fed through the sheath, then they'd split the ends and loop half of it through the sheath and knot the two halves back together (if that makes any sense) to keep the floss from sliding out. It seemed to work quite well, and lasted long enough that I don't remember anyone ever having to replace it. It did look rather odd as the strands continued to separate over time, but certainly caught your eye as it always appeared like a bad fray in the rope from a distance.
I pull a 4" length of dental floss straight through the rope. I've found that tying a small knot in the middle of the floss helps to keep it inside the sheath.
I leave generally about a 8-10 sets of 2" tassels hanging out the rope along a four inch length of the middle. Its very distinctive, very easy to find, and raises a few eyebrows from time to time.
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clc
Aug 22, 2008, 7:06 PM
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I just bought a maxim rope by new england. its says on the label to use "Avery Marks- A-Lot or Binney-Smith majic marker"
should be safe then
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brownie710
Aug 22, 2008, 7:24 PM
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Maxim's Apogee 9.1mm Dynamic Climbing Line
I hope this wasn't the rope you bought!!!
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altelis
Aug 22, 2008, 7:47 PM
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Sty, how do you get the floss through the rope? Just a needle?
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troutboy
Aug 22, 2008, 8:41 PM
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altelis wrote: Sty, how do you get the floss through the rope? Just a needle?
Y'all are using the wrong material.
Fluorescent green or pink embroidery thread lasts a lot longer and is more visible ion low light. Use a blunt needle (any sewing shop has these supplies; of course you must actually go INTO the sewing shop). Can also feel it in the dark (if you find yourself in an epic).
TS
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angry
Aug 22, 2008, 8:47 PM
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jt512 wrote: brownie710 wrote: I am pasting below my question to and response from the UIAA regarding using dental floss to mark the middle of my rope. I know this is a highly debated topic on RC.com and thought it noteworthy. Message: I have heard that "whipping" the middle of one's climbing rope with dental floss can be an effective and safe method of marking the middle. If one only runs the thread along the inside of the sheath, not the core,then wraps or "whips" the thread around the outside of the sheath is this considered non-damaging to the integrity of the rope? I appreciate your help. Thanks Gratefully, josh UIAA Response: I think it is certainly a solution that do not damage the rope, but I am sure that the thread will not stay very long . Anyway the best solution for marking the middle is to use a proper ink as specify by the manufacturer. See the website of the different manufacturer. J-F CHARLET UIAA SAFETY COMMISSION PRESIDENT Did you ask them about using used dental floss? It would be more environmentally friendly, but would acids and other contaminants in the mouth damage the rope? Jay
It bothers me that this point hasn't received more attention
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onceahardman
Aug 22, 2008, 9:00 PM
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angry wrote: jt512 wrote: brownie710 wrote: I am pasting below my question to and response from the UIAA regarding using dental floss to mark the middle of my rope. I know this is a highly debated topic on RC.com and thought it noteworthy. Message: I have heard that "whipping" the middle of one's climbing rope with dental floss can be an effective and safe method of marking the middle. If one only runs the thread along the inside of the sheath, not the core,then wraps or "whips" the thread around the outside of the sheath is this considered non-damaging to the integrity of the rope? I appreciate your help. Thanks Gratefully, josh UIAA Response: I think it is certainly a solution that do not damage the rope, but I am sure that the thread will not stay very long . Anyway the best solution for marking the middle is to use a proper ink as specify by the manufacturer. See the website of the different manufacturer. J-F CHARLET UIAA SAFETY COMMISSION PRESIDENT Did you ask them about using used dental floss? It would be more environmentally friendly, but would acids and other contaminants in the mouth damage the rope? Jay It bothers me that this point hasn't received more attention
It's all about the plaque. You could even use them for DNA identification of your rope, if you suspect someone has stolen it
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Arrogant_Bastard
Aug 22, 2008, 9:14 PM
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angry wrote: jt512 wrote: brownie710 wrote: I am pasting below my question to and response from the UIAA regarding using dental floss to mark the middle of my rope. I know this is a highly debated topic on RC.com and thought it noteworthy. Message: I have heard that "whipping" the middle of one's climbing rope with dental floss can be an effective and safe method of marking the middle. If one only runs the thread along the inside of the sheath, not the core,then wraps or "whips" the thread around the outside of the sheath is this considered non-damaging to the integrity of the rope? I appreciate your help. Thanks Gratefully, josh UIAA Response: I think it is certainly a solution that do not damage the rope, but I am sure that the thread will not stay very long . Anyway the best solution for marking the middle is to use a proper ink as specify by the manufacturer. See the website of the different manufacturer. J-F CHARLET UIAA SAFETY COMMISSION PRESIDENT Did you ask them about using used dental floss? It would be more environmentally friendly, but would acids and other contaminants in the mouth damage the rope? Jay It bothers me that this point hasn't received more attention
I don't think most of them got it.
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onceahardman
Aug 22, 2008, 9:23 PM
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One other point. If it ever becomes necessary to unravel the core strands to do an extra-long rappel, the dental floss could provide enough extra length to keep you from dying a horrible death.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Aug 22, 2008, 9:32 PM
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The use of floss on ropes has been known to incite Revolucions.
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