i know theres like a ton of forums on this but none say when to retire a rop only used for top rope ive never takin any bad falls on it and its only been used for top rope when should i retier it

when should i retier it

Seriously, a rope peeing on itself is pretty embarrassing, especially when it's out at the crag and a bunch of the popular, shiny, new ropes watch it happen.

if you have doubts about it, inspect it for damage and then start using it for top roping.

When the rop (?) experiences incontinence.

i know theres like a ton of forums on this but none say when to retire a rop only used for top rope ive never takin any bad falls on it and its only been used for top rope when should i retier it

i know theres like a ton of forums on this but none say when to retire a rop only used for top rope ive never takin any bad falls on it and its only been used for top rope when should i retier it

The requirements for retiring a rope don't change for top-rope vs. lead. Do a full rope inspection. If you find any signs of damage or have other reason to suspect it, retire the rope.

Basic rope inspection procedure:

Be in a well-lit room when you do this. Start from one end of the rope in your hand. Run the rope through your hand, keeping pressure on it the whole time. Every few inches, make a bight in the rope and squeeze. Make sure as you are doing this that you are looking at the entire rope (you can turn it around a little to see all sides).

What you are looking for:
Frayed sheath: The standard I always hear is 50% fraying. If more than 50% of the sheath is frayed, retire it. However, this is a fairly arbitrary and difficult to gauge measure.

Core shot: If you can see the core (usually white), retire it.

Glazing: The sheath of the rope will be hardened, slightly shiny, and darker than the surrounding material. This is an indication of heat damage, usually caused by too rapidly running a rope through a belay device or webbing.

Flat spots: This is where the squeeze test comes in handy. If you come across a spot that seems unusually soft or flat, chances are the core is either shifted or damaged. Shifting is fine, damage is not. It is difficult to tell which it might be without removing the sheath (which destroys the rope), so err on the side of caution.

Hard spots: This is again with the squeeze test. A hard spot can indicate core shift (not so bad as long as it isn't cause by a break elsewhere in the rope), a core break (very bad), chemical (very bad), or heat damage (also very bad). A hard spot paired with a soft spot can either indicate a core shift or break. Again, since you often can't tell, err on the side of caution.

Discoloration: Usually indicates UV or chemical damage. Retire if discoloration is significant. If you are unsure if it's just dirt, wash the rope using the manufacturer's recommendations. If discoloration isn't mostly gone, it's probably chemical or UV related. Retire.

If you have any other reason to suspect the rope, retire it.

This is reasonably good info, but I'll amend it to say that you don't necessarily have to retire the whole rope when damage is confined to a small portion of it. When damage is close to an end, but the rest of the rope seems okay, just chop the end off.

This is reasonably good info, but I'll amend it to say that you don't necessarily have to retire the whole rope when damage is confined to a small portion of it. When damage is close to an end, but the rest of the rope seems okay, just chop the end off.

when should i retier it

The requirements for retiring a rope don't change for top-rope vs. lead.

are you like trying to criticke me on how i write cause thats just lame

you missed the point, OP said it's already a top rope

I'd disagree.

Agreed. Now to add the Shoo-approved rope whipping (cutting and sealing) technique. I've found that this works much, much better than anything else I've used, including heat knives.

Materials:
Tape: Although electrical tape is the most common, I prefer masking tape for this application. It cuts through easily, doesn't stretch (helps keep the rope tight), and doesn't leave behind a gross sticky reside after you remove it.
Knife: You're looking for something sharp (very) and with a straight edge.
Flame: I prefer a butane lighter, but I've done it perfectly well with a match, Bic lighter, and a propane torch as well.

1. Choose where you want to cut the rope.
2. Wrap the masking tape extremely tightly around the rope at that point. You're aiming to compress the rope as much as possible. This helps it bond when you apply flame. Wrap 2-3 times around, straight around.
3. Put taped rope on a hard surface.
4. Cut straight through the center of the tape. This should be really easy. If you're having a hard time with this and sawing back and forth more than once or twice, either the tape isn't tight enough or your knife isn't sharp enough.
5. Apply flame. Try to avoid direct contact between the flame and the rope. There is a point at which the end will melt, but won't char. That's what you're aiming for. Continue to apply flame until the entire surface has an even, thick coat of solid, brownish, melted nylon.
6. Wait a couple of minutes to let it harden. You can remove the tape after a couple of seconds if you prefer. Or you can keep it on if you want, I guess. Makes it easier to find the ends.

I don't top rope anymore this days, but I do charge myself $0.25 every route and $0.50 every fall that me or my partner takes on my rope.

In my book what Shoo outlined for inspection apply to both in varying degrees.

I haven't read your book.