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Must to trad climbs at HCR?
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bigfatrock


Aug 28, 2008, 8:56 AM
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Must to trad climbs at HCR?  (North_America: United_States: Arkansas: Buffalo_National_River: Horseshoe_Canyon_Ranch)
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So, I am going to be at HCR this weekend but have never really done any of the trad stuff out there. What are some of the must do trad climbs? My trad grad is up to 5.7 at this point. Maybe an easy 5.8. Suggestions would be appreciated. I'm up for face or crack climbs.


(This post was edited by bigfatrock on Aug 28, 2008, 8:56 AM)


acorneau


Aug 28, 2008, 3:58 PM
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Re: [bigfatrock] Must to trad climbs at HCR? [In reply to]
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bigfatrock wrote:
So, I am going to be at HCR this weekend but have never really done any of the trad stuff out there. What are some of the must do trad climbs? My trad grad is up to 5.7 at this point. Maybe an easy 5.8. Suggestions would be appreciated. I'm up for face or crack climbs.

I don't have access to my guidebook so I can't help you on any specific trad routes, but I have to ask:

HCR is super-bolted; why would you want to go there for trad? Sam's Throne is not too far away and has lots of easier trad lines (under 5.9) available for the taking.

Either way, have fun up there!


bigfatrock


Aug 28, 2008, 4:45 PM
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Re: [acorneau] Must to trad climbs at HCR? [In reply to]
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my Sam's Throne trip fell through so I'm climbing here with another group. I have a book but didn't know which are the "good" lines


suilenroc


Dec 27, 2008, 7:11 PM
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Re: [bigfatrock] Must to trad climbs at HCR? [In reply to]
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Lets say I was wanting a destination that had great sport and great cracks... is HCR worth a 3 or 4 day visit?

ADD: I will be possibly visiting from Kansas and i am trying to decide whether i should take my n00b buddies to Colorado or somewhere else. Thanks.


(This post was edited by suilenroc on Dec 27, 2008, 7:13 PM)


ersatz_radio


Dec 27, 2008, 7:23 PM
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Re: [suilenroc] Must to trad climbs at HCR? [In reply to]
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You can spend 3 or 4 days in hcr easy. There's around 300 climbs and a decent number are moderates or easy. You won't run out of stuff to do. I'm from Kansas and that's where I do most of my climbing.


suilenroc


Dec 27, 2008, 7:36 PM
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Re: [ersatz_radio] Must to trad climbs at HCR? [In reply to]
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ersatz_radio wrote:
You can spend 3 or 4 days in hcr easy. There's around 300 climbs and a decent number are moderates or easy. You won't run out of stuff to do. I'm from Kansas and that's where I do most of my climbing.

Thanks for the info.. I am actually interested in the traditional climbs HCR has to offer. From what i have read and heard, the sport is worth the trip alone. But i really am looking for some moderate, quality, and quanity of cracks. Do you have any experience jamming down there?

ADD: What specific type of sandstone is it?


(This post was edited by suilenroc on Dec 27, 2008, 7:37 PM)


ersatz_radio


Dec 27, 2008, 7:41 PM
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Re: [suilenroc] Must to trad climbs at HCR? [In reply to]
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Not a lot--I've done a few trad lines down there but they've mainly been retrobolted, so they're face climbs. There are a decent number of crack climbs around, but sam's throne is the place to go for that as has been said previously. They're only an hour apart so it would be easy to hit both. I've done this a few times.


bigfatrock


Dec 27, 2008, 10:45 PM
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Re: [suilenroc] Must to trad climbs at HCR? [In reply to]
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suilenroc wrote:
ersatz_radio wrote:
You can spend 3 or 4 days in hcr easy. There's around 300 climbs and a decent number are moderates or easy. You won't run out of stuff to do. I'm from Kansas and that's where I do most of my climbing.

Thanks for the info.. I am actually interested in the traditional climbs HCR has to offer. From what i have read and heard, the sport is worth the trip alone. But i really am looking for some moderate, quality, and quanity of cracks. Do you have any experience jamming down there?

ADD: What specific type of sandstone is it?

When I went back in August I ended up doing mostly trad since I had climbed most of the moderates on sport. There are several trad climbs in the North 40 area, but none that really require jamming. I have pretty much done every trad climb in this area, and all are 5.7 or under. The confederate cracks are where you want to go if you want jam cracks. I recommend Tree Beard (5.8) a mostly fist sized crack and a fairly sustained route. Hardest trad route I have done yet, but in the end loved it :)

But it IS really a place for sport climbing, and a REALLY good place for sport climbing.

The Sandstone is atoka I believe. It takes gear really well and is super solid.


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