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michael_s_hartman
Sep 1, 2008, 7:02 PM
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I've posted a draft of a climbing guide for Alapocas at http://mhartman.net/climbing/alapocas.html. I'm working to add bouldering details and expect to have an updated version of the guide soon.
Mike
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michael_s_hartman
Sep 13, 2008, 2:12 PM
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michael_s_hartman wrote: I've posted a draft of a climbing guide for Alapocas at http://mhartman.net/climbing/alapocas.html. I'm working to add bouldering details and expect to have an updated version of the guide soon. Mike
The latest version of the guide has a first draft of bouldering info. I think at least 2 boulders are missing at this time. I'll continue to make updates as I figure out more details.
Mike
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michael_s_hartman
Jan 9, 2009, 6:40 AM
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Version 1.4 of the guide was made available in Nov 2008. The bouldering information was removed from the guide at the request of the Alapocas park manager.
Mike
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tobashiya
Mar 8, 2009, 4:27 PM
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I walked through Alapocas today with 2 friends that also climb. We applied for permits... We'll definitely be back, but I have some questions for you...
I can see a few bolts on the lower right portion, those climbs all end at the peak of that slab?
I'm not heavily experienced with outdoor climbing. The loops that are anchored above the slab are belay anchors?
Thx. Looks good and promising so far! Pls let me know.
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michael_s_hartman
Mar 9, 2009, 8:21 AM
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tobashiya,
I assume you mean the slab with the climbs:
10. Arena Arete
11. Rambo
12. Grey Streak
All of these climbs end at the top of the slab, as depicted on page 6 of the climbing guide.
Rambo and Grey Streak have been bolted as sport climbs. Each route has two bolts for protection and each route finishes at a common anchor consisting of two bolts with loops or rings.
If you want to setup a top rope for Rambo or Grey Streak, you can scramble to the top of the slab and use the Rambo / Grey Streak two bolt anchor to create the tope rope anchor. Add your own gear (carabiners & webbing/cord) to the anchor bolts instead of threading the rope directly through the anchor loops to prevent the loops from wearing out. You may find you pendulum a bit when using the Rambo / Grey Streak anchor as a top rope anchor. Alternatively, you can setup a top rope anchor using the large iron eyelet above the slab and other gear placements. The iron eyelet is on the flat area on top of the slab.
The Arena Arete climb is too far to the left to use the Rambo / Grey Streak anchor as a top rope anchor, as a fall will result in a big pendulum swing. For an Arena Arete top rope anchor, use the large iron eyelet and gear placements. You can create a directional for the Arena Arete anchor (to keep it from sliding down the arete) using the Rambo / Grey Streak anchor.
If you want more details, please send me a PM.
Mike
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