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How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet.
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Poll: How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet.
5.9 or less 4 / 13%
5.10 8 / 26%
5.11 8 / 26%
5.12 7 / 23%
5.13 4 / 13%
31 total votes
 

camhead


Sep 4, 2008, 9:50 AM
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How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet.
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DO NOT JUST CLICK ON THE POLL, ASSHOLE! KEEP READING!

Okay, I am not quantitative at all, I do not know how to use MS Excell, and there are probably going to be plenty of things wrong with this excercise.

That said, I was thinking it would be cool to take the numbers/ranking of 8a.nu, and apply it to how truly well-rounded we are as rock climbers. I have not included ice or mountaineering, sorry.

Here's how it works. Make up a spreadsheet or write down each of these groups and categories:

Sport:
-Overhanging Endurance (RRG, Maple, etc.)-
-Overhanging Bouldery (five bolts or less)-
-Technical Face (vertical or slightly overhanging)-
-Slab (Less than vertical and/or smearing)-

Trad:
-Hand or Fist crack-
-Off-fingers crack-
-Fingercrack or thinner-
-Offwidth and/or Chimney-
-Face (pretty diverse, could be Gunks, Eldo, technial stemming, or -Tuolomne slab)-

Mental:
-R-rated Climbs or highball boulder problems-
-X-rated and/or Free Solo-

Boulder:
-just one category here-

Now, enter in TWO point values for each category. Take the HIGHEST of: 1) your onsight/flash, and 2) your redpoint. Here are the number values:

VALUES (onsight-flash/redpoint)
Routes:
5.8: 2/1
5.9: 4/2
5.9+: 5/3
.10a: 6/4
.10b: 7/5
.10c: 8/6
.10d: 9/7
.11a: 10/8
.11b: 11/9
.11c: 12/10
.11d: 13/11
.12a: 14/12
.12b: 15/13
.12c: 16/14
.12d: 17/15
.13a: 18/16
.13b: 19/17
.13c: 20/18
.13d: 21/19
.14a: 22/20

Bouldering:
V0 5/2
V1 7/4
V2 9/6
V311/8
V413/0
V515/12
V617/14
V718/15
V820/17
V921/18
V1022/19

FINALLY, if you want, take the average for onsight-flash and redpoint, convert it back into a climbing grade. Hopefully, this should give your all-around level. Post it up and enter the poll if you want. There is no option for PANCAKES. Sorry.


***disclaimer***
I know that people will complain about a lot of this. Here are some disclaimers:

1. The numbers on routes reward onsighting more than redpointing. Many people go with the adage that you should redpoint one number grade harder than you onsight. This exercise does not follow this formula. Sorry.

2. There is a bigger difference between flash/redpoint for bouldering than for routes. I did this since it is usually easier to work boulder problems than routes.

3. The boulder ratings roughly match up with the route ratings. Not exactly, but roughly. Sorry.

4. If you climb lower than 5.8, you get a zero. Of you have not done the given style, you get a zero. If you only toprope or follow, you also get a zero. You are not a well-rounded climber. Get out and train, bitch.

5. If you boulder harder than v10 or climb harder than 14a, you are likely not reading this post, but rather out climbing.

that is awl.


wonderwoman


Sep 4, 2008, 9:57 AM
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Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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1. you have a lot of time on your hands...

2. I'm too stupid to figure this out. Does that constitute pancakes?


(This post was edited by wonderwoman on Sep 4, 2008, 10:01 AM)


lena_chita
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Sep 4, 2008, 10:00 AM
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Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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Aren't you supposed to be working on your dissertation, or something?

I'm not doing that worksheet! I already know that in the rounded department I'm more of a lopsided stick than a softball. Blush

Enjoy your overhanging endurance climbing this weekend... I'm jealous.


Partner epoch
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Sep 4, 2008, 10:01 AM
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Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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Before I even attempt to read/do this, you do know you can upload files other than pics as attachments, right?

Just keep it within size constraints and we all can share without re-doing all your work.


camhead


Sep 4, 2008, 10:04 AM
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Re: [epoch] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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I already told you I can't work excell. do you want me to scan and upload a piece of scratch paper or something?


camhead


Sep 4, 2008, 10:06 AM
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and damn, I just realized that the poll only gives options for climbing grades, not onsiight/redpoint.

oh well, the best climber is the one having the most fun, right?


clausti


Sep 4, 2008, 10:16 AM
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Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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baby, if you learn to ask for help, your sugar momma can do excel.


hyongx


Sep 4, 2008, 10:17 AM
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Re: [epoch] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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I got a 50.

My only complaint is that I think there should be a different point-value system for trad routes and for sport routes. Trad routes should be worth more points- I think it is way easier to climb 5.10 sport than it is to do serious 5.8 trad routes.
If you kept the same point scale, but started the trad scale at 5.6, so that 5.6 was 2/1, etc, i think that would be better.

Also, is there no category to quantify multipitch? alpine? aid? ice? mixed?

points based on how long your longest multiptich is, trad and sport. Points based on Grade I - V rating for alpine route, something like that.
If somebody is truly well rounded, I feel like they would have scores for aid, ice, and mixed stuff, too, even though I don't have any experience in these areas.

I think your worksheet needs to include these factors.


bizarrodrinker


Sep 4, 2008, 10:31 AM
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Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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O noez!!!11 Clausti noez xhell and camhead duhzn't!!!!111

Y kno camhead noe xhell?!?!?! y'z?!?!?!

u arrggghh wutz rong w1th clyming!

I vote dairy enhanced bread disks!

This is how rounded I am.


camhead


Sep 4, 2008, 10:31 AM
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Re: [hyongx] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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good points, hyongx. I gave sport and trad roughly the same values, because, if everyone enters the same, it does not matter whether trad or sport is worth more.

The end result would still be: "I can pretty much show up to any crag, trad or sport, in the world, and climb "x".

How did you get a "50"? Either you climb like 5.17f, or you did not average out your totals.


Gmburns2000


Sep 4, 2008, 10:34 AM
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Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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I just clicked the first option in the poll. Did I win?

edit: fixed something stupid


(This post was edited by Gmburns2000 on Sep 4, 2008, 10:34 AM)


chadnsc


Sep 4, 2008, 10:39 AM
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I'm pretty well rounded in my middle. Dose that make me a well rounded climber?


hyongx


Sep 4, 2008, 10:41 AM
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Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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hahhaha. sorry, I didnt understand that you were supposed to average the values that you got in each category.

so, basically, that was a sum. as there are 12 categories, then I guess I got a 4. That doesnt really sound nearly as impressive as 50.

guess that makes me an average of a 5.9 climber.
I am not sure if I agree with that.


chossmonkey


Sep 4, 2008, 10:41 AM
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I can't believe you called me an asshole.


granite_grrl


Sep 4, 2008, 10:42 AM
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Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
DO NOT JUST CLICK ON THE POLL, ASSHOLE! KEEP READING!

Okay, I am not quantitative at all, I do not know how to use MS Excell, and there are probably going to be plenty of things wrong with this excercise.

That said, I was thinking it would be cool to take the numbers/ranking of 8a.nu, and apply it to how truly well-rounded we are as rock climbers. I have not included ice or mountaineering, sorry.

Here's how it works. Make up a spreadsheet or write down each of these groups and categories:

Sport:
-Overhanging Endurance (RRG, Maple, etc.)-
-Overhanging Bouldery (five bolts or less)-
-Technical Face (vertical or slightly overhanging)-
-Slab (Less than vertical and/or smearing)-

Trad:
-Hand or Fist crack-
-Off-fingers crack-
-Fingercrack or thinner-
-Offwidth and/or Chimney-
-Face (pretty diverse, could be Gunks, Eldo, technial stemming, or -Tuolomne slab)-

Mental:
-R-rated Climbs or highball boulder problems-
-X-rated and/or Free Solo-

Boulder:
-just one category here-

Now, enter in TWO point values for each category. Take the HIGHEST of: 1) your onsight/flash, and 2) your redpoint. Here are the number values:

VALUES (onsight-flash/redpoint)
Routes:
5.8: 2/1
5.9: 4/2
5.9+: 5/3
.10a: 6/4
.10b: 7/5
.10c: 8/6
.10d: 9/7
.11a: 10/8
.11b: 11/9
.11c: 12/10
.11d: 13/11
.12a: 14/12
.12b: 15/13
.12c: 16/14
.12d: 17/15
.13a: 18/16
.13b: 19/17
.13c: 20/18
.13d: 21/19
.14a: 22/20

Bouldering:
V0 5/2
V1 7/4
V2 9/6
V311/8
V413/0
V515/12
V617/14
V718/15
V820/17
V921/18
V1022/19

FINALLY, if you want, take the average for onsight-flash and redpoint, convert it back into a climbing grade. Hopefully, this should give your all-around level. Post it up and enter the poll if you want. There is no option for PANCAKES. Sorry.


***disclaimer***
I know that people will complain about a lot of this. Here are some disclaimers:

1. The numbers on routes reward onsighting more than redpointing. Many people go with the adage that you should redpoint one number grade harder than you onsight. This exercise does not follow this formula. Sorry.

2. There is a bigger difference between flash/redpoint for bouldering than for routes. I did this since it is usually easier to work boulder problems than routes.

3. The boulder ratings roughly match up with the route ratings. Not exactly, but roughly. Sorry.

4. If you climb lower than 5.8, you get a zero. Of you have not done the given style, you get a zero. If you only toprope or follow, you also get a zero. You are not a well-rounded climber. Get out and train, bitch.

5. If you boulder harder than v10 or climb harder than 14a, you are likely not reading this post, but rather out climbing.

that is awl.

Okay, I actually did read (most) of that....but I'm not doing that.


hyongx


Sep 4, 2008, 10:50 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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I think, in order to really find out how well rounded you are, you'd have to have a crazy bunch of categories.
Maybe, you get two values in each category, hardest redpoint, hardest onsight.
Trad
Sport
Boulder
Ice
Aid
So that gives you 10 values. I know that a lot of people, me included would get 0's for ice and aid.
So this gives you a numerical score of well rounded-ness, but this number does not translate back to any sort of route difficulty rating.

Then there should also be an experience category, including factors like
# of types of rock you've climbed on-
(sandstone, limestone, granite, gneiss, etc, etc)
# of countries you've climbed in
# of US States you've climbed in
longest multipitch you've done
highest peak bagged,
etc etc.

sounds a lot like way too much work.


sungam


Sep 4, 2008, 10:55 AM
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hyongx wrote:
I think, in order to really find out how well rounded you are, you'd have to have a crazy bunch of categories.
Maybe, you get two values in each category, hardest redpoint, hardest onsight.
Trad
Sport
Boulder
Ice
Aid
So that gives you 10 values. I know that a lot of people, me included would get 0's for ice and aid.
So this gives you a numerical score of well rounded-ness, but this number does not translate back to any sort of route difficulty rating.

Then there should also be an experience category, including factors like
# of types of rock you've climbed on-
(sandstone, limestone, granite, gneiss, etc, etc)
# of countries you've climbed in
# of US States you've climbed in
longest multipitch you've done
highest peak bagged,
etc etc.

sounds a lot like way too much work.
Biased!


hyongx


Sep 4, 2008, 11:16 AM
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Re: [sungam] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Biased!

Honestly, I think the vast majority of rc.com-ers are "U.S. Americans"

There could be a qualifier -
If you live in the US, it has to be number of states. If you live out of the US, you get double points for visiting states, or just like points based on number of trips to the US, or particular destinations like the valley, J-tree, CO- areas, the southeast, NE, etc etc. Can you really call yourself a CORE trad climber if you havent been to THE VALLEY, regardless of what country you live in? I am not a core trad climber, but I hope to visit teh valley next summer.


(This post was edited by hyongx on Sep 4, 2008, 11:17 AM)


camhead


Sep 4, 2008, 11:18 AM
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hyongx wrote:
sungam wrote:
Biased!

Honestly, I think the vast majority of rc.com-ers are "U.S. Americans"

There could be a qualifier -
If you live in the US, it has to be number of states.

I disagree on that. One can get ten times the experience climbing just in CA, UT, or Colorado separately than they would climbing in New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, and Ohio combined.


hyongx


Sep 4, 2008, 11:25 AM
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Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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Okay. Not number of states, then. Regions?
Equal points for:
California
Colorado
Other Western states
the southeast
the northeast


bizarrodrinker


Sep 4, 2008, 11:26 AM
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its true, but if you climbed in PA and NY combined you can get a fair bit of experience.

PA for bouldering, NY for everything.


Arrogant_Bastard


Sep 4, 2008, 11:36 AM
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Re: [wonderwoman] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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wonderwoman wrote:
1. you have a lot of time on your hands...

You think that's bad?

See attached!

Haven't had time to test it for bugz, but y'all can do that for me.
Attachments: Camheds Gheyness Counter.xls (25.5 KB)


hyongx


Sep 4, 2008, 11:41 AM
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you need a score of ZERO option, incase I dont have 5.8 free solo, for example.


sungam


Sep 4, 2008, 11:41 AM
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how about england and whales and ireland counting as different places?


Arrogant_Bastard


Sep 4, 2008, 11:43 AM
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Re: [hyongx] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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Ahh, fair point. I made it average out blanks on purpose, but I guess if it's suppose to calculate how well rounded you are.

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