Sep 4, 2008, 6:59 PM
Post #31 of 46
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet.
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Ok, I didn't actually read it as I was making the Gheyaculator. How can you assign ratings to the cracks? Where are these 5.14 hand cracks? I wuntz to know!
Sep 4, 2008, 7:08 PM
Post #34 of 46
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet.
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
Ok, I didn't actually read it as I was making the Gheyaculator. How can you assign ratings to the cracks? Where are these 5.14 hand cracks? I wuntz to know!
handcrack roofs can be as hard as 5.12. If you have climbed these, you are well-rounded, if not, you are weakmo N00000B!!!!!11
DO NOT JUST CLICK ON THE POLL, ASSHOLE! KEEP READING!
Okay, I am not quantitative at all, I do not know how to use MS Excell, and there are probably going to be plenty of things wrong with this excercise.
That said, I was thinking it would be cool to take the numbers/ranking of 8a.nu, and apply it to how truly well-rounded we are as rock climbers. I have not included ice or mountaineering, sorry.
Here's how it works. Make up a spreadsheet or write down each of these groups and categories:
Sport: -Overhanging Endurance (RRG, Maple, etc.)- -Overhanging Bouldery (five bolts or less)- -Technical Face (vertical or slightly overhanging)- -Slab (Less than vertical and/or smearing)-
Trad: -Hand or Fist crack- -Off-fingers crack- -Fingercrack or thinner- -Offwidth and/or Chimney- -Face (pretty diverse, could be Gunks, Eldo, technial stemming, or -Tuolomne slab)-
FINALLY, if you want, take the average for onsight-flash and redpoint, convert it back into a climbing grade. Hopefully, this should give your all-around level. Post it up and enter the poll if you want. There is no option for PANCAKES. Sorry.
***disclaimer*** I know that people will complain about a lot of this. Here are some disclaimers:
1. The numbers on routes reward onsighting more than redpointing. Many people go with the adage that you should redpoint one number grade harder than you onsight. This exercise does not follow this formula. Sorry.
2. There is a bigger difference between flash/redpoint for bouldering than for routes. I did this since it is usually easier to work boulder problems than routes.
3. The boulder ratings roughly match up with the route ratings. Not exactly, but roughly. Sorry.
4. If you climb lower than 5.8, you get a zero. Of you have not done the given style, you get a zero. If you only toprope or follow, you also get a zero. You are not a well-rounded climber. Get out and train, bitch.
5. If you boulder harder than v10 or climb harder than 14a, you are likely not reading this post, but rather out climbing.
that is awl.
I have to admit to thinking that this was pretty fun. I got a 13 flash and a 12 redpoint, which puts me at about 12a which is pretty accurate, I think. Although, I don't think that it really means that I could go and climb an x-rated 12a. The total possible points available in the "mental" category is small which reduces it's effect on the average score. So, to make this apply to your mental game, you'd have to add a bunch of hardest scary slab? hardest scary crack? hardest scary overhanging route? type questions.
Ok, I didn't actually read it as I was making the Gheyaculator. How can you assign ratings to the cracks? Where are these 5.14 hand cracks? I wuntz to know!
handcrack roofs can be as hard as 5.12+. If you have climbed these, you are well-rounded, if not, you are weakmo N00000B!!!!!11
1 - it gives no weighting for how much you climb per type.
2 - It gives an average. To my mind, it should give something near the bottom - what's my "competence grade". The grade where I can onsight/RP across styles. This set of numbers is nothing like that.
Sport, I climb harder than your formula would suggest. The flip side of that is that the little bit of sport I have with high numbers (relative to me) has way too big an impact on my numbers.
Trad, that score's probably about right for my crack climbing, but *way* too high for my gear protected face. And gear protected face is mostly what I've done recently.
So it's only right for the climbing I love the most, crack. Everything else it's pretty far off.
1 - it gives no weighting for how much you climb per type.
2 - It gives an average. To my mind, it should give something near the bottom - what's my "competence grade". The grade where I can onsight/RP across styles. This set of numbers is nothing like that.
Sport, I climb harder than your formula would suggest. The flip side of that is that the little bit of sport I have with high numbers (relative to me) has way too big an impact on my numbers.
Trad, that score's probably about right for my crack climbing, but *way* too high for my gear protected face. And gear protected face is mostly what I've done recently.
So it's only right for the climbing I love the most, crack. Everything else it's pretty far off.
1 - it gives no weighting for how much you climb per type.
2 - It gives an average. To my mind, it should give something near the bottom - what's my "competence grade". The grade where I can onsight/RP across styles. This set of numbers is nothing like that.
Sport, I climb harder than your formula would suggest. The flip side of that is that the little bit of sport I have with high numbers (relative to me) has way too big an impact on my numbers.
Trad, that score's probably about right for my crack climbing, but *way* too high for my gear protected face. And gear protected face is mostly what I've done recently.
So it's only right for the climbing I love the most, crack. Everything else it's pretty far off.
AB, when are you gunna hit 10k? at this rate I'll be there before you. well, I'm off to shitcan the PCI again...
Meh. Postwhoring lost it's enjoyment with the deathmurder of the BET. I only post to entertain myself, blatent postwhoring is not fun (to do or read - ahem).
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back on topic- What if you've never climbed a handcrack, fingercrack, or a proper offwidth? nihl whah?
Sep 4, 2008, 11:14 PM
Post #44 of 46
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet.
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:(damn. I'm no climber. Really? the BET is dead? Well, if you are still online we could go have a banter-fest. I won't be whiney or post pictures of fat asses. Or try to type scottish.
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