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joek
Mar 20, 2007, 9:24 PM
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i'm going to be moving to new haven in june, and will be taking a trip in a few weeks to scout out a place to live. i'll be there for a few days and i hope to check out some of the bouldering in the area, and was hoping someone might make some recomendations on the best spots. or, if i had a whole day to climb, would it be worth my time to check out the gunks or lincoln woods, or is the bouldering in ct pretty high quality and worth checking out? thanks for any help, and hopefully once we move i'll start running into some of you guys out at the boulders...
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jimo
Mar 20, 2007, 9:38 PM
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Hi joek- the bouldering here in ct is ok, the climbing is better though. There are a few palces to check out, look at www.raggedmtn.org there are descriptions for most of the areas around here. (also check out www.ctclimbers.com ) Immediately in the NH area, check out West Rock- judges caves and Sleeping Giant,- the ampitheater. I'm not sure of the Gunks, I wouldn't head up there unless I was planning on climbing for the day, it's $15 a day to be there. Linclon woods is a destination that some folks I know head there periodically. But I'm not a boulderer, I boulder to train for climbing. I do have some secret spots, maybe someday we'll run into each other and I'll let you in.
Peace - Jim
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mtnrock
Aug 23, 2008, 9:35 PM
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i would suggest 7 falls park or west Hartford reservoir the 2 places i know
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thegirlwithnoname
Aug 24, 2008, 11:50 AM
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joe it was great bouldering with you during your stay in CT. as you can see, most climbers in CT won't hoard their "secret spots" like jimo. and unlike jimo also probably climb hard enough to appreciate the killer bouldering in state....that doesn't require you to drive out of state to find. plus, the roped climbing can be pretty fun when you want to train for bouldering.
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alex234
Aug 25, 2008, 8:24 PM
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hey man if u have facebook check out the group C3 connecticut climbers coalition. welcome to ct
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mtnrock
Aug 28, 2008, 9:41 PM
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im not sure i went knew a couple years ago it was fine but they might have gottin more strict
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joek
Sep 2, 2008, 5:31 PM
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Funny how this thread resurrected after I have already moved out of CT....
thegirlwithnoname, the one from Mystic, I assume...yeah, it was a blast hanging out and climbing with you guys. If everyone in CT was as open and willing to share their local areas as you guys the bouldering scene in CT would be much better.
Hopefully more CT climbers will start exploring the bouldering potential the state has to offer. That little state has a lot of rock.
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mtnrock
Sep 4, 2008, 1:14 AM
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when you where there did you ever here of the Process Boulder in Marlborough ct
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joek
Sep 4, 2008, 2:15 PM
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I've heard of it - I think directions for it are on neb.com (the link someone posted above). I never checked it out or talked to any who did. Have you been to it? Is it any good?
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nivlac
Sep 4, 2008, 2:38 PM
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Joey is a weirdo. But at least he's nice. How was the epic hike with the fam? Sorry I couldn't make it out there...
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mtnrock
Sep 5, 2008, 12:29 AM
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yea i drove by where your sposed to see it but i couldn't idk
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joek
Sep 5, 2008, 4:50 AM
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Are you looking for more areas to boulder? What part of CT are you in?
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mtnrock
Sep 14, 2008, 3:18 PM
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east part neer uccon and willimantic
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ClimbSoHigh
Aug 24, 2009, 2:12 PM
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I have been hunting CT bouldering locations, and will offer up a few spots I like to boulder. Most are known but a couple are secrets that I have decided to release to the public.
The best spots allowed are:
7 falls - one of the few places we are allowed to climb
Will Warrens Den - also legal to climb, nice hike too.
Judges Cave - allowed to climb, just no chalk!
A couple of problems down below Old Man Ragged and Subline by the river bed. Also some more climbs right of main cliff. (ragged mountain)
Mt Laurel state park, fairfield (check out all three spots!)
Sleeping Giant - I do not know why but I have never made it to this park!!! I hear there are great hikes, leads, TR and bouldering yet have never ventured there. Anyone want to show me around?
Places we shouldn't be climbing (what do they call it... oh yeah historical purposes):
Split rock area bouldering aka "Bradley"
West Hartford reservior
Behind the condos in Ridgefield.
Brownstone quarries for some rare DWS!!
and some little known or unknown spots: I only am revealing these places as they only have small amounts of bouldering, and I discovered them myself. There are many other places I know about and have heard storries about and would love to show people or check out new places. PM me if you feel like sharing spots or climbing.
-Mianus river trails - Greenwich, CT (also check out laddens rock)
-The boulder on top of split rock, the less known split rock in CT - (Hurd State park)
-Glacial erractic and exposed ridge at Glacial state park.
Keep climbing!
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scotty1974
Aug 24, 2009, 7:12 PM
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I used to go to 7 falls alot when I lived outside of hartford. The rock can be REALLY rough in places since it doesn't see alot of traffic, so bring tape. Climbs can often be pretty dirty and be prepared to do alot of hiking and wandering as the boulders are spaced far apart and hidden in the trees. Quite a few are highballs and I suppose there a quite a few classic lines if they were clleaned up and saw more traffic...
Be sure to stop at Eli Cannon's in Middletown and sample their 30+ tap beers. The Tibetean food across the street is really top notch as well.
That being said, I would recommend doing some of the classics routes in CT or drive to Lincoln woods if you have the time. I think most of the decent bouldering in CT is on private property.
Guide from the kids at weslyean:
http://www.wesleyan.edu/wsa/wmc/sevenfalls.html
Just saw this thread was old!!  Hopefully it will help someone else out!
(This post was edited by scotty1974 on Aug 24, 2009, 7:24 PM)
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joek
Aug 24, 2009, 9:21 PM
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This thread keeps popping back up, so I'll try to give some helpful info about CT bouldering, from my limited knowledge. I lived in New Haven for one year, and got out a lot to a few different areas, and here is my take:
Judges Cave, New Haven - good, but limited. I don't think the 'No Chalk' rule is enforced any more.
Seven Falls - lots of potential, but needs traffic. Each time I went out everything was real dirty and I spent more time cleaning than climbing. Bible Rock is good, as are the areas along the power lines. I didn't think the stuff on the backside of the loop trail was that great.
Bradley - obviously a fantastic area, but I've heard that access got even worse. Hopefully it will improve.
Sleeping Giant - good hiking, the bouldering isn't really worth the trip.
East Peak - explored here once, climbed a bit. Potential for some good traprock bouldering.
Mystic - loads of good stuff in that direction and close to the CT/RI border. Much better than Lincoln Woods, but not as concentrated.
Westwoods - rock quality not as good as farther east on the coast, but loads of boulders and potential. Good access and nice hiking.
Road trips:
Lincoln Woods - fun and highly concentrated. Mostly great landings and good granite.
Gunks - a worthy day trip. The bouldering is better than the roped climbing, I don't care what anyone else thinks...also the softest grades in the country, so go have fun and boost your ego.
WMass - hit GB once and Farley once. Both incredible and worth the drive.
I know of many more areas that I haven't been to. CT is loaded with great boulders, but burdened with access issues. The bouldering in my new home of Tucson is not as good as other places I have lived, but everything is on public property, and I never have to worry about gun-toting ranchers (Texas), meth heads parking their trailers in the middle of my secret bouldering spot (Missouri) or the mysterious and all-powerful local water board (CT).
Have fun and keep exploring, there are boulders in them thar hills.
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ClimbSoHigh
Jul 8, 2010, 1:34 PM
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A little update since my last post. I have since gone to Sleeping Giant and did some bouldering and hiking and I agree that the bouldering there is not the greatest, but nice if your a local. I would never head back there for bouldering, and looking at the cliffs, would probably not rope up unless I went with someone that knew where the routes go, lots of loose looking stuff up there on the chin. I found 3 bouldering spots with chalk (all near eachother) so a mini circut might be possible but no more than 10 problems total I could see without eliminates, with the ampatheater being the best (which wasn't very great).
Some kid on MP poseted "devils dander" which is a 25' DWS problem in redding. good landing but in the shade so pick a stupid hot day. The climb itself is nothing too special, but still fun to climb over water. Looking around the area there might be few other DWS lines with shallow landing. Not a destination but if climbing at Devils den on a hot day, I would recomend stopping by to cool off mid day. (devils den has a few boulder problems as well, but bring a rope to avoid disapointment)
Another new spot is the boulders at the base of pinnacle. The approach is like 30 seconds from the road and there are about 8 problems from V0-V4, bring a brush to clean top outs and pad your landing. Not climbed often at all at this point and lots of loose stuff. (first time I discovered them, I pulled a fist sized block off onto my face). I am not sure if these boulders are on private property so be polite jsut in case. It is a way shorter hike than going 30 min up to will warrens den.
The last of my new discoveries is down in greenwich at Bobcock Preserve, right off the merrit on North Stret. I think someone posted it already but there is actually good bouldering there. I only know of two spots but they are pretty good for an afternoon seshion, or for when I am driving by on the merrit and want to stop off for a quick sesh.
Another spot I have not visited yet but heard about is in Merriden, at Hubbard Park. I hear if you cross the foot bridge over I-691 heading north and take a right once over the highway, there are 3 or so boulders there with some good lines and potential. I'll probably go check it out this winter.
Lastly whoever made the bouldering guide to Washington's Head is on something, since none of the lines mentioned make sence, and most are just bouldering the starts of routes, which you can do anywhere. The block behind mind bender has some good HB bouldering but that is it from what I know. If going to cathole, bring a rope.
Keep finding those lost boulders and post em up.
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ClimbSoHigh
Feb 15, 2011, 7:58 PM
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More bouldering in Burlington, along the mile of ledges. Some are on this outcrop, and more bouldering at the base of the cliff which offers some nice overhangs. Good potential for different variations, but the 30 min hike in might make some stay away.
Once the weather turns nice, I'm going to check out the boulders across the foot bridge over the highway at Hubbard Park/East Peak soon, heard from a buddy there are a good dozen or so good quality problems there, and potential to explore and find new ones too.
If you want to boulder sometime, PM me. Once the snow melts a bit, its back to outdoors.
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